My Dometic RM2852 fridge quite cooling, I do have 120 V to the plug and the fuses are both good but it wont even power up enough to light the display panel or the inside light in the fridge.
It had been running fine for a bit over 2 weeks and I loaded meat into it on a Wednesday morning and the fridge and freezer were both cold, I was out there Thursday mooning loading clothes and such and meat in freezer was frozen and fridge was cold. Where I was had my meals covered for Fri – Sun so I never checked it until Sunday night and oh my the smell.
I downloaded the Dometic service manual and started following their check list but soon figured out they were showing a different circuit board from what I had. The wire colors and pin locations don't match.
So I am looking for ideas before I order a new circuit board
Thanks
Steve,
The PC board is 12 VDC. Do you have 12 VDC to the PC board?
I do to the terminal Block but I am having a hard time finding the 12 V to the board it self, the service manual does not have the same terminals or numbering as my old board.
It's important to check to see if you have a leak. That's what causes fires. Look for any yellow deposits on the pipework at the back. Also with it turned on listen for any bubbling or gurgling sounds. If you have either stop and turn off the propane and electric.
Don't turn it on until you have it fixed in that case.
Keith
While very true,. with this on the original post, sure sounds like an electrical/PC board issue:
"....but it wont even power up enough to light the display panel or the inside light in the fridge."
Now this will sound weird but there is a method to the madness. When you checked the 120v plug did you check the exact one that the fridge was plugged in to or did you just check the one that has nothing plugged into it? The reason I ask is I have seen one plug fail (the one the fridge was plugged in) and the other show voltage.
Mike
It all looks clean, not off color stuff.
I did find a picture of the control board by itself and identified the 12 V to the board an board ground terminal, I will go out there at the crack of dawn and make another run at it. I will just have to go by name from the manual and then find the terminals on the board to check it all out.
I have found a OEM board and a replacement board from Dinosaur Electronics, the latter has some updating to to like one of the fuses in now a auto spade style.
Thanks Mike, I checked both of the plugs in the receptacle and even plugged the fridge into both. both sides have measured at 120V ^.^d
Now take your meter and check to see if you have 120 v on the spade lugs where they plug onto the curcit board.
Seems like there is a little fuse on the main curcit board that feeds the power to the eyebrow board (this is the board that has the lights and switches on it that controls the fridge functions) check to make sure that this fuse is good.
Mike
Thanks Mike, the wires from the incoming terminal block dont go straight to the board but I did just find a picture of the board and which terminals are the 12 v in and ground so I can check it in the morning. I did clean the wires coming into the terminal block yesterday.
Salesman's switch ON?
Wires not going directly to the circuit board from the terminal block............do you have an ARP overheat protection device?
yes the Salesman's switch is on, everything else if purring right along.
I dont remember seeing anything like the ARP device, I didnt get a picture when I pulled panel covering the flue area but there may have been a high limit switch there, something like on a hot water heater???
Just checking the simple stuff first.
Good luck with it.
Follow the wires from the 120v heating element back to the controller. Pull the wires from the controller and make a pigtail out of a extension cord to power the heating element bypassing the controller. The heating element will be on 100% of the time. This sounds dangerous but it is the recommended procedure by Dometic. I've done this and use an IR gun to monitor the the tubes to be sure the temps didn't get out of range. This is not a fix!!! Just for troubleshooting. If after overnight the fridge is not down into the high 30s the absorption unit is probably bad. If you do get into the 30s probably the controller.
Also try running on propane. If it works it may just be your 120v heater. You can get a new one on RV Cooling Unit Warehouse (http://rvcoolingunit.com/).
see ya
ken
Thanks kenhat, I know it wont run on propane as nothing fires up, no lights on control panel and no light inside the fridge.
I can make that cord, did you just crimp male spade terminals on it?
That's what I did.
see ya
ken
With no lights that sounds like a controller issue. There should be 12v running into the controller via a euro connector close to your controller. Be sure you have 12v there.
Edit to add photo.
see ya
ken
Times 2. My guess is you don't have the 12 volts you need.
"my old board"?
Kenhat is correct. There is a large 12V hot wire and a large 12V ground wire in screw down lugs that run the whole shebang. If either one of those are not in good contact, nothing works.
Well here is what I have found this morning, I have 13.4 coming in at stops 1, 2, and 3 but 0 volts at step 4. So what is it and is it supposed to be this way?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Foretravel/Forums-post-1/i-4vzPz3r/0/a7dc1725/L/Volt%20Map-L.jpg)
That looks to be some kind of thermostat! I would jumper the 2 wires and see what happened.
Chris
That looks like part of Dometic's recall kit to help prevent fires. Between that and the comment about the "old board", I'd have to say that more than a few parts of the puzzle -- and this story -- are missing.
Try jumping across from 3 to 4 and let us know what happens. That should have you good to go (until you get it reset/replaced).
My dometic rm3807 lost a.c. and propane use 2weeks ago. A new dinosaur board fixed it. Go here dave78chieftain.com
Click on general rv then click rv fridge .
Has a good picture schematic and trouble shoot. Good luck
OK folks, I have power to everything now, that little round thing on the flue is a high limit switch. if you look real close between the 2 terminals there is a black dot, that is a rest switch.
I poked that little thing with a lead from my voltmeter and went inside and turned the fridge on and presto, it lite up.
now the proof in the pudding is will it cool, I did try the gas for a couple of minutes and it fired right up.
Thanks everyone ^.^d
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Foretravel/Forums-post-1/i-cNRxvB3/0/de56767d/L/20181022_102316-L.jpg)
Now I would wonder why the switch tripped.
Rich
Either from age or heat, where I park my coach that side is maybe 3 feet from the south side of a steel building. I think this stuff was added last Jan at FOT for the Dometic fridge recalls.
Dakota Slim is correct, that is the Dometic "fix" for their overheat/fire problem...............sheet metal and a thermocouple.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FsJch0S6phs
That is it exactly, Dometic did not charge for the kit but they did not pay for the install.
So if you have a RM 2852 Dometic fridge and you dont have all the extra sheet metal and limit switch you may want to look into getting it for safety??
I have a newer coach now, with a Norcold, but now I remember that I had the Dometic (RM3662) recall fix done on my old coach. Camping World installed it for free.
I also had one installed for free on a Monaco we owned.
That is your high limit "cut out" now you should monitor it closely to see why it tripped in the first place. Possibly out of level for a while?
You may want to consider the ARP protection device to auto shut down the fridge if boiler temps get too high. It will reset itself when temps return to a safe
Level.