Dead house batteries have been removed and I am seeking advice on temporary power option to refrigerator for few days while waiting on new house batteries. Have a Dometic NDR 1282 refrigerator,
Any 12 volt battery with a small charger will keep the 12 volts needed to run on propane.
Thanks for the response, could I use an extension cord from pedestal and run on electric? Am at a park and don't have access to a battery or charger, may just have to use a cooler for few items and dispose of perishable items.
You need a 12 volt power supply to run the refrigerator's board.
Can you jump from the chassis battery? Keeping the board on 12 volts would not draw very much current, if you were worried about losing the chassis voltage.
What about combining the chassis and house batteries using the BOOST switch, and keeping the chassis batteries charged with the inverter/charger while plugged into the pole? You may need a Trik-L-Start, IDK.
See page 8, 9 and 10 in the operating manual linked below. Although 12 volt power
is required to operate the AES (Automatic Energy Selector control panel), it sounds like the fridge
will operate in a "Limp Mode" on 120V AC power only. You could try just plugging the fridge AC power cord into a extension cord run to the pedestal, and see what happens. Should be pretty obvious if it isn't going to work.
http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Dometic-Refer-Model-RM1282-Installation-User-Manual.pdf
Thank you to all that replied, had a breaker tripped that went to the inverter. Reset that and now have power to frig.
The invertor shouldn't be powering a propane refrigerator.
But, if house battery bank deeply discharged, providing the inverter/charger with an external source of 120 VAC could also bring battery voltage up to where the refrigerator PC board could function.
Without 12 VDC, the refrigerator will not operate on either 120 VAC or propane, as the PC board is 12 VDC.
His first post says the batteries are removed
To clarify the situation, batteries were removed and taken to O'Reilly's as they thought they had replacements, found that they had wet cell batteries and I wanted AGM so we had to order correct batteries. Did not want to handle those heavy batteries any more than needed. Made contact with a retired Foretravel technician and was advised that the inverter would power the refrigerator on electric. Per his diagnosing procedure we found the tripped breaker, reset and now have electrical power.
Thanks again to all,
It might! See my Reply #6.
But why on the inverter if no batteries installed.
I am sure he means inverter/converter
How much are the new batts going to set you back?
Chris
If he is plugged into the inverter/converter and he loses shorepower, would the inverter not be required to supply the 400 + watts the electric element in the fridge? On my 99 had two outlets in fridge compartment, one straight from main breaker box for 120 volt heating element and one from inverter that only ran low wattage ice maker mechanism. Do most people run their fridges off the inverter circuit?
Jumper in the engine battery with at least a 10 gauge wire. It will suffice temporarily and the engine battery will stay charged by the inverter/charger. The boost solenoid draws too much power.
Is his boost solenoid powered by the coach or chassis batteries?
Correct it is running from Prosine inverter/charger, good as long as I have shore power. Batteries are $454.00 ea. Got a discount as park owner"s son has a trucking business and he gets a discount, really appreciate him for bringing out his service truck and another strong person to do the lifting. 163 Lbs. each are heavy batteries. Hope this helps someone else if you ever have same issue.
Why do you have it plugged into the Prosine? Why not to the regular socket next to it that has power when you have shore power. When you lose shore power, it should automatically shift to propane, if plugged into the Prosine and you lose SP, it will run off batteries till they go dead which will not take long with a 400 watt load.
This forum is great when you need advise, have learned that the refrigerator needs a 120 volt power supply along with 12 volts for the control board or can run on propane with 12 volts for the control board. From your responses it is obvious that this can be done by different methods depending upon what you resources are at the time. Has been running fine by using the inverter/charger which is apparently supplying both the 120 and 12 volts. This also provided me with interior light and tv while waiting for new batteries.
Correction to my last post, Shore power is supplying the 120 volts and inverter/charger is supplying the 12 volts.
Actually shore power or gen alone should power the electric 120 volt side of your fridge and the 12 volts is supplied only by the battery. The inverter/charger [charger side] only charges your batteries, or when inverting with no sp, changes the battery voltage into 120 volts [inverter side]. Running the 120 volt side of your fridge on any inverter plug is not a good idea.