My new inverter is in the bay just in front of my mid door , one box from the batteries.
My question is how to make the hole directly above the inverter for the receptacle, and get the wires to the basement bay. My magnet shows the frame tubes run along the wall .
Do I drill from the basement through the frame and hit the foam between the walls ?
Do I drill from the wall down through the frame ?
Has anyone done this successfully ?
Thanks as always. MM
This advice is for a Unihome. With your chassis, don't know if chassis to wall structure will be the same. I will delete this if we get someone with knowledge of ORED structure.
You will need to find a location inboard of the wall (use a magnet) where there is no metal beam and in the coach the location will be in a cabinet, etc where it will not show. So you will be drilling through the plywood flooring only
Then you will need to decide where to locate the outlet from there-- drilling through a wall will not work because of both horizontal and diagonal beams.
Maybe flush floor location . Will be very easy except for the tile cut .
Mike, as you know 120v Romex will have very little voltage drop over a longer cable. How about running a much longer Romex across bay, up into a closet or similar space floor, and across to some place where you can surface mount an outlet. just seems like drilling blindly into frame structures is asking for rusting, weakening and chafed electric cables. We have run Romex within our coach for several additional outlets.
I have outlets evrywhere but under the window. My office space . I dont see a cable pass through above the door. Non of my outlets are wall mounted . I will floor mount this one and not drill the wall .
Maybe the rear face of the wheel well.
Thanks for the ideas as always.
Mike, a floor mounted outlet might collect lots of unwanted bits in the slots. Is there a cabinet next to your office space? Can you come up into the cabinet and mount an outlet in the cabinet?
These outlets "crimp" on romex cable. All you need is a proper sized hole in the cabinet.
Amazon.com: RV Designer S811, Self Contained Dual Outlet with Cover Plate,... (https://amazon.com/RV-Designer-S811-Contained-Outlet/dp/B008OJ6XA0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541715555&sr=8-4&keywords=mobile%2Bhome%2Boutlet%2Breceptacle&th=1)
No cabinet. The wheel well looks like the best choice . Right up tight to the frame and out of reach of the tire. Thanks for thinking about it.
MM
I would avoid penetrating the wheel well area. Get a tombstone electrical outlet box. If you don't have any where else to rise up. Tombstone box would only need a small hole going down to the floor.
I thought about the tombstone deal but I would like to avoid cutting the tile . I measured up the wheel well with the bus full down and there is plenty of space.
Used a HD 14 ga outdoor rated extension cord. RTV around the hole and grommet, to keep the cord snug inside .
Came out nice .
Uh OH!............ your receptical is upside-down :o
just yanking your chain a bit, alot of electricians install them that way. I was taught (many years ago) that the grounding prong is to be at the bottom and this was because the grounding prong is be the first to make and last to break for safety reasons. This is why its longer than the neutral and hot prongs. The reason for it to be at the bottom was due to gravity........... yep gravity, as the cord tends to hang down in most cases, it is possible for it to be out far enough for the ground not to make contact while the hot and neutral are, if the grounding prong is at the top. May not be true but it made sense to me. I have tried this and it is possible but more than likely not probable. A lot of Hubble recepticles are stamped where their name is upside down if you mount the grounding prong down.
For what its worth..........JMO
I was taught that ground goes on top-- reason being that if something fell across a partially un plugged connector that it would short across the hot and neutral, I guess it depends on who your teacher was!!!
Chris
I was taught the same Chris. The instructor said that while he couldnt take off for either direction, he could add bonus pts for ground on top.
Google it..... lots of arguments both ways.
Reddit - AskEngineers - Ground prong up vs. ground prong down (https://amp-reddit-com.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/amp.reddit.com/r/AskEngineers/comments/662y5t/ground_prong_up_vs_ground_prong_down/?amp_js_v=0.1&usqp=mq331AQGCAEoAVgB)
Or:https://www.archtoolbox.com/materials-systems/electrical/groundorientation.html
For what it's worth, the ground (earth) post is on the top in the U.K. and is longer than the others. The added length also opens/slides a gate so the other pins can enter the outlet, no 2 pin plugs.
The outlet looks good to me.
with the ground plug up, the dirty minded electrician with a black sharpie marker can't his special artwork. :o