I didn't see this posted anywhere (possible I missed it), but I was researching the MicroFlush toilets on the forum a few days ago to see about ordering a new flapper gasket.
I called the 800-358-8280 phone number that is listed in the older MicroFlush documents, and was directed to a different number for service. The old 800 number was in California.
This new number for parts/service is located in New Jersey. If anyone cares to make note, it would save a step.
Mullaney & Associates, LLC
230 N Mapleleafe Ave STE B1
PMB 349
Marlton, NJ 08053
email: mullaneyllc@gmail.com
ph: 866-840-49444
website: mullaney-associates.com
Hope some of you might find this helpful. Oh... and the current price of a flapper seal is $14.00.
Russell,
If you are replacing the old style gasket be sure to adjust the rod that connects the cam to the flapper arm. The new gasket is thicker and will require adjusting(shortening) the rod length. Failure to do that will probably crack the plastic cam if is is not already cracked.
Bob
Yep spent a few hundred with them over years.
I found Mullaney & Associates a very helpful supplier in my dealings with them.
I replaced my cam with a metal one, bought on ebay.
You might be able to clean the old flapper gasket and soak it in silicone or hot water for awhile, I did this and it swelled and softened the old gasket enough that it was able to create a seal, been good for a couple years now. A coating of silicone grease on the gasket also helps it seal.
Thanks for the caution re gasket thickness. That might be hard to determine however, as the other got "flushed", (OOPS).
By the way, in researching the the archives, did I understand correctly that this gasket can be changed without removing the toilet?
The new gasket has an adhesive and can be installed with the toilet in place.
I have several Issues with my LF-220, and just got off the Phone with Mullaney & Associates, LLC, and they are soon disconnecting their Toll Free Number, but was able to contact them on their Normal Number, of - (856)-956-1299, listed on their website! After explaining my several Issues, Anna-Marie, not only went through and help me troubleshoot, but fully explained each part's purpose, and why I need to troubleshoot them! Probably a 10 for 10 in service, that I can say! That, as we all know is lacking in the RV Industry!!! Here is their website, BTW About Us - Mullaney And Associates (https://mullaney-associates.com/about-us/)
So, I ordered 3 Parts from them, but was informed that since Microphor has been bought out by WABTEC, and they are not very Customer Friendly, nor wish to support older model Products! So, I asked her to Include any and all things she recommended having, Kits and Bits, and ED @ WABTEC will be contacted for the rest! It seems they are letting their Retail Suppliers down, and hanging them out to dry! While that is unfortunate, her counterpart, Ed, can assist on parts, for as long as they decide to source them, as a Company! He is a Bit overwhelmed right now, so patience is required to contact him, currently! His Direct Company Number is 707-598-6216.
I find it so disconcerting that Manufacturers want to not support a Product they either Supply, or Manufacture these days! Our Throwaway Society is Terrible! While even a New Coach would be nice, we all know they are Used and Worn, quickly, and while it would be Very nice to buy a Brand new $1.2 + Million Dollar Coach it is beyond the means of most of us, of course!
Foretravel has been known to support us out here, after the sale, probably doing it better in that regard than Most Manufacturers as well! But let's just hope that continues! Some recent changes in that regard, may make it less of an advantage there perhaps? I am glad that there are still those who can afford those new Coaches that are sold also....I have just never been in that Category, and won't be in this lifetime, anyway! :)
One HUGE Issue, that was most likely Solved, over the Phone, was the Stench we had going down the road with any window opened! The whole coach Permeated with Sewage smell, and was so bad that I would not take a Passenger along on a ride, because it was so embarrassing, to say the least! What was determined when I mentioned that was the Hoses inside the Back Cabinet of the Toilet should be Inspected for Cracks, and or Disconnected. That checked out, just fine, BUT....there must be a small amount of water, at the Bottom of the larger hose that dips Below it's Lower Mount. This acts a P-Trap, like you have in all in a plumbing system, so it actually, has a Water Barrier from smells getting into the coach! That little 1/2" hole at the Top Left of the Bowl area is for Overflow, which did Not Stop a Leak I had, probably due to a Solenoid issue! I am ordering a new one, but I ended up Tapping on it, to get it to work! I am still replacing it, for good measure also! Anyway, just pour some water with a Funnel, into that Tube, and it should take care of the Issue? I am not leaving here where I am parked, for awhile, so can't verify it, but sure makes perfect sense! I guess if the Coach sits for any length of time, that trapped water can dry up! Hopefully and end to a disgustingly smelly issue?
Several things:
1- I considered a metal cam, but was told that the cam is the "weak link" designed to crack before something more expensive broke.
2- The gasket is thicker, and I have not been able to stop it from leaking despite using silicone grease. You will need to remove the toilet, if you are to adjust the arm.
3- I continue to have difficulties (I've taken the toilet apart and reassembled). First, leaking, then broken cam, then grit in solenoid (causing water to run) and finally, a leak from the manifold behind the toilet in the closet. Now we use a pitcher with water whenever we need to flush.
I have never understood a need for an electric toilet and would like to replace it, but have not been able to find a manual replacement model with china bowl that will fit in the space (too close to closet). New high end coaches have something that will fit, but it has a macerator and costs over $1100. The pitcher works fine for now and I will keep an eye out for any new alternatives.
That is, indeed, some very distressing news. All my dealings with Anna Marie and John have been top notch. I may have been unhappy at the cost of some parts, but never with the patience and help they offered. Another reason to be looking at a replacement, down the line, if I can get a good one that will fit.
Also check out the Air Admittance Valves (AAV). See this thread for more info: Sewer Odor, roof sewer vent, air admitance valves inside... (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=34106.msg312768#msg312768)
I replaced a Nature Head composting toilet that the PO installed with a Dometic 320 toilet. I had to replace from the tank to/and the floor flange. I used a floor flange that had a 2 inch offset and that gave me about an inch space behind the toilet. I had to have 11 inches from back wall to center of hole in flange. If I had gotten the Dometic 310 Toilet it requires 10 inches and I might not have had to use the offset flange. I was having to install all new from the tank I liked the design of the 320 better otherwise I would have used the 310 model. I did have to cut out more of the floor for the offset flange if anyone is considering replacing their toilet.
I have a Nature Head toilet for sale with extras if anyone is interested Pick up in Arkansas.
For legal liability reasons this is what I did and it worked on my coach only.
Ron, you are spot on with the offset flange. All of the issues many have with one brand or another can be easily replaced with another model/manufacture commode. We had the micro flush in our '98 and the only issue we had at the time was the solenoid and we replaced it. I decided that if more issues occurred, an ADA porcelain commode was to be purchased and installed. Since I have done quite a bit of plumbing in the past, this was a no brainer!
I replaced mine with a high rise thetford and it fit in the space
Even if the over flow trap has water there is no way to avoid the horrible stink when a window is open while traveling down the highway and the toilet is flushed. The air moving past the coach creates a negative pressure inside the coach and it draws air (stink) from from the only source available. I have eliminated this by letting all passengers know that I must close my drivers window if the toilet is in use, which is normally the only window that is open.
There is no RV toilet that I am aware of that has a air lock for the flushing mechanism.
Politically incorrect, environmentally unfriendly, old Aqua Kem should and did mask any black tank odors. A bit in the grey tank helped mask any turning sour odors also.
Haven't had this problem as we've never been in such a rush that we can't stop to use the facilities. I suppose being retired has something to do with that. But wouldn't opening the overhead vent in the bathroom provide enough venting? Especially with the bathroom door closed while flushing?
Roland
Ron, my bathroom set up is differently than yours. My flange is 7.5" from the cabinet. I am not aware of any flange that will give the clearance I need or any toilet with china bowl that will fit. If anyone has a solution, short of removing the cabinet, I'm "all ears".
Hang a piece of yarn from the vent frame and watch where the air goes. If you can get it to dance towards the vent , you should have no inside fumes.
I haven't ever seen one that close to a wall. I see where you are going to have a problem. I would check with MOT or FOT to see how they fixed others like that.
Good luck.
Sven, are you measuring from the finished wall to the center of the flange? That is supposed to be 12 inches. Just wondering if you measured from the wall to the back edge of the flange. Just asking....... That would still be close and you would have to add an offset flange to compensate. I have never seen one that close as well.
Joe,
He must have the LF-229 which is about right for the spacing. Check out these specs. on the 229. https://mullaney-associates.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/24323-Manual-for-DC-OPERATED-MODELS-LF220-229-320.pdf
Some have made a riser box to accommodate the offset flange for a new stool.
Mike
I see what you mean on that one!
eBay has a lf220 metal cam gear by a bluebird guy for sale. I bought one for backup
I installed the metal cam gear the last time my plastic gear cracked, no problems since.
Joe, I measured from the back wall to the flange lug/screw that is centered on the hole. The other measurement isn't relevant.