Please double check your part numbers before you begin
I had an oil leak at the rear of the motor and thought it was the valve cover gasket but after removal of the cover I found the orings on the injector harness was bad so I replaced both (2) of them
Cummins ISM For Sale | VanderHaags.com (https://www.vanderhaags.com/detailview.php?part=24444904)
Next was the front of the engine which I thought was the crank seal leaking. I decided that while I was their I would go ahead and replace all the seals on the front shafts Crank/Accessory/Alternator.
I removed the balancer by using a pry bar on the rear of it and using the lower motor mount and the bolts on the back of the face plate.. Tried the 3 prong remover but it failed.
Replaced the crankshaft seal with
Front Crank Seal Kit for Cummins L10 M11 ISM. PAI # 136117 Ref.# 4955665 4962745
Alternator Drive Seal Kit for Cummins L10 M11 & ISM. PAI # 136056 Ref. #... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Crank-Seal-Kit-for-Cummins-L10-M11-ISM-PAI-136117-Ref-4955665-4962745/252742152839?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649)
Accessory seal with
Accessory Drive Seal Kit for a Cummins M11. PAI # 136081 Ref. # 3804304, 3803728
Accessory Drive Seal Kit for a Cummins M11. PAI # 136081 Ref. # 3804304,... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Accessory-Drive-Seal-Kit-for-a-Cummins-M11-PAI-136081-Ref-3804304-3803728/252410626149?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649)
this one is best removed before you remove the belts to keep the engine from turning with the ratchet. I had already removed everything so I had to make a tool to keep everything from moving.
Next up is the Alternator seal
Alternator Drive Seal Kit for Cummins L10 M11 & ISM. PAI # 136056 Ref. # 3803894
Alternator Drive Seal Kit for Cummins L10 M11 & ISM. PAI # 136056 Ref. #... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-Drive-Seal-Kit-for-Cummins-L10-M11-ISM-PAI-136056-Ref-3803894/263058381326?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649)
Used a regular pulley puller on this one.. easy
Found that the alternator seal was the really bad one and the crank seal was behind that. I bought the crankshaft wear ring just inc case I needed it but I did not use it.. was really a tight fit on the crank seal..
Front Crankshaft Wear Ring for Cummins L10. PAI# 136043 Ref# 3820918 84854 99333
Front Crankshaft Wear Ring for Cummins L10. PAI# 136043 Ref# 3820918 84854... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Crankshaft-Wear-Ring-for-Cummins-L10-PAI-136043-Ref-3820918-84854-99333/252379750138?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649)
After cleaning everything and getting dirt off I replaced the new seals and reinstalled the pulleys and the balancer. Replaced the belts with new ones
Started it up and ran for a moment and I will take it for a spin this weekend to see how I did.. not to much work... took a few to figure out how to remove the stuff that was stuck but in the end it moved with either some wd40 or a breaker bar.
I personally think your engine is way too clean and you should be asked to leave the forum. 🙂
Nice write up David!
Nice job with photos! Awesome!
Good job David.
That's a lot deeper than most of us will go into our engines, but nice to know that it can be done! Excellent photo report!
Just for reference..
Cummins wanted over $3k to do this.. I bought the parts from ebay from 1 vendor, I could have saved over $100 if I would have shopped around but being all from 1 company made it easier for me if I have any issues..
Total time of actual work (not including wrestling tools and thinking ) say 8hrs and I am slow with a terrible back.... can be done with the right tools and with know how in about 3-4hrs max..
Edit to say i spent about $250 on this project and my time. So I equate it to about a $10k fix lol with my time haa but I was a little nervous but it was really simple for the most part..
Excellant article, i very much appreciate the part numbers and most importantly the photos !
You Deserve a Ten plus on this article !
Safe Travels
Dave ,
This is the harness picture .. the blue Oring's go around the base of the plug and have a tendency to leak.
Had to find these pictures.. but here they are.. this is at the rear of the ingine that would be right when you lift the bed. easy access..
You will need to remove the motor bracket (looks like the brackets they used to lower the engine) the harness enters the head right behind it..
Those are some great shots of the valve lifting system. I guess I've never seen a photo of the Cummins rocker arms...very interesting the way they sit at different angles. All that mechanical stuff is packed in there pretty tight!
I was amazed by the head and looking at the valves..