Anyone have pictures of replacing the bottom stair step. Mine is getting soft. I'm not talking about the flip down step, but ihe first on the three steps.
Bruce,
Don did a nice write up on his repair I think this is what you are looking for.
Step Repair or Renovation (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=19971.msg143342#msg143342)
Mike
Here are a couple of pics when stairs were updated. No issues just re built them and recovered. Flip-down step has totally been replaced.
John
John,
I think the rotten first step issue didn't start until Foretravel decided on the infamous "wet step" design, which I believe started in 99'. The second picture of your entry way shows the aluminum ridge across the bottom. The screen door rubber surround seals against that ridge which is missing in our 99' U270. Other than the sealing action of the screen door rubber surround being compressed by the entry door, that ridge forms a dam across the opening which prevents water from entering from the entry resulting in soaked plywood beneath the vinyl covering. Well, that is my theory anyway... I took the liberty of using your picture and cropping and annotating it to illustrate what I am talking about. I believe that Foretravel did this because they felt customers wanted a flat entry with no ridge to step over or on when walking in or out of the coach. I used Starboard marine lumber, which is a polyethylene (think cutting board material) which is impervious to water. I have a plan to deal with the water intrusion which I will detail when I get around to doing it. In the mean time, I am comforted to know that there is nothing there to absorb water any more.
Don
Don, my 99 has the flat step. It is s "wet step" that has been wet too many times. How thick was the material you used for the step?
as I recall the plywood was just under 3/4" so they used the 3/4" on mine
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Tim Fiedler
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Bruce,
The original plywood was nominally ¾" (really 23/32" or what passes for ¾" in recent times). I used ¾" Starboard. One issue you will run into which you may or may not consider a problem, is that the aluminum trim that surrounds the door opening is an eighth of an inch thick. As built, the aluminum trim sat proud of the plywood subfloor and they just covered the whole thing with the vinyl. I felt that the lip would result in more water staying around. I used two pieces of Starboard to get around that issue. One narrow strip which was as wide as the aluminum trim and a wider one which extended up to where I cut out the damaged plywood. I offset the two pieces by ⅛" so that the surface was totally flush when the aluminum trim was installed. I could have done it with one piece by milling a rabbet ⅛" deep the width of the aluminum trim. I didn't have the right equipment for that at the time. I attached the narrow strip to the larger piece with four countersunk 3" No. 10 screws. Since this area is at the front of the entry way and will bear a considerable dynamic load, it is supported from underneath by an inch and half by ⅛" angle aluminum attached to the 1.5" square tubing. The step repair is very solid with no flex at all. I also insulated the back of the step box with rigid polyurethane foam board and wrapped the entire area with sheet aluminum.
Don
Our step is very solid so no issues there. I put a "wiper strip"across the I side part of the screen door so it contacts the top of step and on opening wipes any moisture off it. I can say we have never had any water on it once we open it. I also found that the perimeter of door frame including the top amber light should be caulked properly as this was allowing water to mitigate down to step area.
I will take a picture soon and repost it.
JohnH
What about using Azek instead of Seafoam?
It's readily available and comes in a lot of different sizes and thicknesses;
Sheets PVC Trim | Exterior Cellular PVC Trim | AZEK (https://azek.com/products/trim/sheets-trim#frontier)
Trimboard PVC Trim | Exterior Cellular PVC Trim | AZEK (https://azek.com/products/trim/trimboard#frontier)
I don't think PVC would have the necessary structural integrity to be used where it will be bearing weight. The Starboard marine lumber is very tough. I used Azek trim on my house when I remodeled, and so am fairly familiar with its characteristics. Although you attach it with screws, it doesn't have great screw holding properties if you were to attach something to it. It just isn't very dense material, unlike the polyethylene based Starboard. Also, though it may not be relevant in this application, PVC is quite susceptible to solvents, whereas you can use acetone to clean up the Starboard with virtually no effect on it. Starboard can be used in places where it is exposed to UV if you pay attention to the listed features. It is often used to build exterior cabinets on exposed decks. That said, the Azek may work for this application as long as it is supported from underneath and appropriately braced and covered with some kind of wear layer. It is much easier to glue to itself than Starboard.
Don
Thanks Don 👍