I'm thinking about replacing the original pump and accumulator tank and have been checking the archives for info. Has anyone posted detailed info on how they did theirs? I'm looking at the Shurflo pump.
Thanks
I've changed out several. Here's the thread on the latest one, also a Sureflo (water pump (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=35039.msg326456#msg326456)). As many others have done, I eliminated the accumulator. Matter of fact, the installation instructions for this pump indicate it should not be used with an accumulator. Either way, it's pretty straightforward and you will have the advantage of not having to deal with the awkward placement due to the hot water heater. I recommend you get the hoses which will quiet the pump somewhat.
jor
Thanks Jor. I had read your link before, but could not retrieve it. It helps if the installation instructions covers everything. I'm still reluctant to replace the PEX with a flex hose, not knowing how reliable it is or what the pressure rating is.
Sven
What kind of noise is experienced if the "silencing kit" isn't used? Would a rubber mat beneath the pump work just as well?
You are actually just adding the hoses. No sweat. There should be a bunch of threads on water pumps and beamalarm has some info too. Last time before this I used an AquaJet which are also good pumps.
jor
Someone else will likely chime in with their own experience but I don't think a rubber mat would do much as the pump has nice rubber isolators already. The hoses just keep the pex from jumping around and making a racket.
jor
I think actually what is causing the noise is the sound of the pump working ie vibrations etc and then this being transmitted thru the solid "pex" lines.
JohnH
John's vibration transmission sounds a lot better than my pex jumping around. Let's go with his.
jor
Here is a video of the way one owner fixed his noise/vibration:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8Nvke47p_0
Pierce
This is what I replaced mine with works great, been 6 years ago.
FLOJET part # 2840100D it's the pump and accumulator.
any experiences with Seaflo pump? (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=28553.msg239886#msg239886)
Water Pump Accumulator Tank (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=30068.msg258032#msg258032)
Amazon.com: SHURFLO 4008-101-E65 3.0 Revolution Water Pump: Automotive (https://smile.amazon.com/SHURFLO-4008-101-E65-Revolution-Water-Pump/dp/B002XM5G70?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_2600486011)
Amazon.com: SHURFLO (255-313) 1/2" Twist-On Pipe Strainer: Automotive (https://smile.amazon.com/SHURFLO-255-313-Twist-Pipe-Strainer/dp/B000V2W0GE?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_2600486011)
Amazon.com: SHURFLO 94-591-01 Pump Silencing Kit: Automotive (https://smile.amazon.com/SHURFLO-94-591-01-Pump-Silencing-Kit/dp/B000WN5F96)
I replaced mine with the same as Bruce with a new pump and accumulator tank, I like the fact that I can run the water and not have the pump run till the pressure drops. There's also no re plumbing involved and great water pressure. It was an open box special on Amazon for about $270.
I also added a shutoff valve so I can swap out the pump without having to drain the fresh water tank.
Chuck.
I'm not seeing a drain for your fresh tank. I gotta be just missing it ???
The silencing kit really helped my pump noise. I can still hear it but not near as loud.
I know, it's hard to see where it is located in the photo.
The HOT and COLD drain lines on the right side of photo come together, cross the front of the compartment, and join the fresh water tank drain line on the left side. At that point there is a "T" connection with the "base" of the "T" pointed down through a hole in the floor. So all three lines drain through the same single hole in the floor. The old hot and cold drain line holes are covered by the gray aluminum plate in the right bottom corner of the photo (there is another matching plate underneath the coach).
I have brass shutoff valves into and out of the pump, so I can clean strainer or work on pump without draining the water lines.
Now that is one fine idea! I think I'll knock it off. Thanks.
jor
Nice execution! When I redid the basement framing, I also opted to reduce the penetrations through the basement floor. In my case, I had replaced all of the interstitial plywood underneath the basement floor with quarter inch aluminum plate. I happened across a stainless steel manifold meant for natural or LP gas that had 4 ½" FPT inputs on the side and one on each end. I ran a PVC elbow through a bulkhead fitting I made out of some PVC plumbing bits. There is a screen on the output and male hose thread so it could be capped or have a garden hose attached for draining the tank if needed. If the pump is turned on while the tank drain valve is opened, it will drain the tank pretty fast. In fact I could easily hook up a sprinkler or nozzle on the hose and water the lawn with it... if I had a lawn that is ::)
Don
jor: Yer welcome. That'll be $20. I accept PayPal. ;)
Don: You can't seem to do ANYTHING without utilizing either stainless steel or polished aluminum. I admire your work. :thumbsup:
Thanks to everyone for your comments. Once again, this forum has proven helpful. I should be able to work it out from here.
Sven