Good morning and Happy New Year to everyone on this forum!
I have a functioning Heart Interface 2500 in my 1995 Unihome 280. I have just replaced four dead GC2 6V batteries (PO had allowed them to freeze, and they literally broke open and spilled out the acid), with 4 new 6V AGM GC2 batteries. The Heart Interface manual looks like it should be able to charge these correctly, but the is no de-sulfation cycle.
In the experience of the people on this forum, would it be wise to replace the Heart Interface with something else now that I have new AGM batteries in place?
Thanks
Mark
You are fine with that inverter/charger on AGM batteries. If no AGM setting, set them to WET CELL. The charging algorithms are very close.
Your inverter is pre seial number 100,000 like our oem 97's.
No battery temp system. The charging voltage is highly temp regulated.
All coaches past our Feb 97 build to this day have a battery temp controlled charging voltage.
Cold weather can get the correct voltage below mid 13's. You are outputting over 14 unless you manually reset the voltage constantly.
No non lifeline brand AGM can be equalized.
Electronic desulfurization does work I understand.
So we bit the bullet and had a magnum ms2812 and it's control panel and it's BTMS installed.
Fully charged batteries are good to minus 32 F.
The overcharging may have blown up your previous batteries?
Or trying to equalize them to replace lost capacity?
Every new unicoach coach built for the last 20 years had a BTMS and mk gels new
Mark,
Does your inverter/charger not have a "cold vs hot ambient temperature" in its programming (along with type of battery and size of battery bank in amp-hrs?
If I was going to upgrade and considering going with solar, this would be my choice. Magnum Energy MSH3012M MSH-Series 3000W 12VDC Pure Sine Hybrid Inverter! However, they are proud of these for sure! I had the Magnum 2800 in our 5th wheel and it sure did do the job with 4- 6 volt AGM's.
Your Heart unit is about 25 years old, you are living on borrowed time.
Some AGMs like ours, specifically warn against using a de-sulfation cycle. Our Heart is still working fine.
Pierce
The over and undercharging constantly from not having the chargers cycling and voltage set to match the batteries temp will have them lose capacity much faster than the correct voltages. Which is why even less expensive inverter/chargers now offer a BTMS. Read the heart freedom manual on line. It mentions changing the chargers voltage manually to match the batteries temp.
My opinion. . .
Replace it now. Take time to figure out what to replace it with and consider it a do it yourself learning project.
And do it when you have time and place, not 'on the side of the road'.
It will fail, quite old, not true-sine wave, lots of overheated components, limited flexibility.
Spend now when you will have many years enjoying your replacement.
And it may be friendlier to your new batteries. But even with your old batteries, the Heart should have been replaced.
Heart was a very good unit and may work for a long time. We had your Heart, and when it failed for what ever reason, it was in a campground.
If you decide to replace the heart, don't cut the heavy battery cables.
Disconnect the ground and positive cables at the battery.
Place Heart on work surface and open it up, which may/will destroy the Heart.
Find the bolts that attach the charger's internal end of the cable's big brass terminal.
Remove bolts and reuse cables with new chargers that all have external bolt connections.
Also just unplug the telephone-type RJ-11 remote panel cable, as it can be re-plugged into most new chargers.
If you go with Magnum, get the better of two remote panel models.
Enjoy the challenges
The magnum me-arc advanced remote is not user friendly. Stick with the std me-rc unless you really want to get into this. It's fairly easy to set up
I have both and have not mounted the advanced remote yet.
First of all, let me offer my gratitude for everyone who has responded. There is some really good advice in here. Based on the information, and the fact that I'm an individual who prefers to prepare first, I have decided to delay even installing the new AGM batteries until I get this situation figured out.
As a result of the fabulous comments, I began to do some more research, and ran across this thread online as a result of the comment about the Magnum Energy MSH3012M. That in turn led me to further research, and I discovered this video about a Victron Energy device:
Running an RV AC off Solar, Batteries, and a Hybrid Boosting Inverter |... (https://www.technomadia.com/2016/06/running-an-rv-ac-off-solar-batteries-and-a-hybrid-boosting-inverter/)
This video demonstrates closer to what I'm looking for. My RV is parked in my driveway, and I will be using it both as a traditional RV, driving to many states in America, and also living in it for short periods while I rehab my home. Sometimes I'll be living in the home, and sometimes the power will be off, and I'll be living in the RV. That means shore power, probably from a 30 amp circuit. Finally, during 2019, I would like to try to install solar on the RV because 2019 is the last year you can get a full 30% discount on your federal taxes for it. Thus, the potential for three or four charging sources - alternator, generator, solar, and short.
Since I need to plan and do this right, I guess my next question is this: Since my needs are more clearly defined now, who has experience with Victron Energy, and would they recommend the products?
Thanks again everyone! I love this forum!
Mark
You gain a lot with the ME-ARC over the ME-RC. If you ever want to use a Battery Management Kit (BMK) or an Auto Generator Start (AGS-N), you'll only have partial functionality with the ME-RC. Knowing your battery State of Charge (SOC), for instance, is a nice feature that I think is only available on the ARC.
http://energyplus.co.tz/NEW/Magnum-Remote-Comparison-Rev1-0.pdf
I have a 95 also which has the same inverter. My inverter crapped out and i had to decide what to do. I chose to rebuild it. A marine electronics place in sarasota fl convinced me that cost wise it was the best option. I carefully removed it , took it to him and for a resonable price he rebuilt it . It works perfect. Like any inverter you need to make sure you are are not over charging so you dont cook your batteries. Inverters arent cheep and for me this was an easy decision. As long as your inverter doesnt over charge you should be ok. But as you stated its almost 25 years old. Good luck
If you decide to install a solar system, you may not need an inverter/charger.
I have 1400 watts of solar panels, an Outback 80 amp solar controller, an 1800 watt "pure sign" Xantrex inverter and a 50 amp IOTA converter. Because the solar system reliably keeps my three 8D AGM batteries charged when the sun is shining, and the IOTA (dual voltage) inverter keeps my batteries charged when there is no sun, I would never use a high amperage charger.
I chose an 1800 watt inverter because it can provide 15 amps at 120 VAC which is the maximum for any appliance you may use, while limiting the inverter supply amperage to 180 amps, and costing a fraction of the cost of a larger inverter/charger. I must be careful when using two or more appliances simultaneously to not overload the inverter (ie a microwave and coffee maker).
I can and do use the inverter and the converter at the same time which cannot be done with an inverter/charger.
The total cost of the solar controller, the inverter, and the converter was half what a 2500 watt inverter/charger was.
By the way, I have only one battery bank not two.
If you plan on recharging batteries with the generator when dry camping, you definitely need an inverter/charger.
Just so there is no confusion, I must elaborate on reply 12 where the poster referenced " the inverter charging the batteries".
An inverter/charger has two functions, firstly, inverting (providing 120 VAC power from 12 volt batteries) and secondly, providing battery charging from 120 VAC (shore or generator).
My Xantrex inverter cannot charge batteries, it dischargers batteries to provide 120 VAC.
My IOTA converter can charge batteries using 120 VAC power.
I have posted this many times. The Victron inverter/chargers are not NRTL or UL approved.
My progressive rv insurance policy specifically states that any appliance must be approved by either source.
Please use marine 1427 UL approved cabling as its pvc cover is fire retardant.
Std battery cabling rubber cover burns
Bob
Victon complies with EN 60335-1 (equivalent to UL60335-1)which is recognized by US code agencies via a reciprocity agreement. This is how manufacturers go to market in multiple counties without testing being required in each country.
Here is UL 60335-1 link:
UL - 60335-1 Safety of Household and Similar Appliances, Part 1: General... (http://standardscatalog.ul.com/standards/en/standard_60335-1_6)
Here is a link to main EN60335-1 documents which is reciprocal to UL60335-1
EN 60335 | EUROPEAN INNOVATION PARTNERSHIP (http://ec.europa.eu/eip/ageing/standards/home/sensors-actuators-and-alarms/en-60335_en)
Here is Victron Product spec listing EN 60335-1 certification here:
http://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Multiplus-inverter-charger_2kVA-and-3kVA-120V-US-EN.pdf
So effectively, the Victron inverter is "UL approved" via EN60335-1 Certification
I sell products manufactured in the US that meet US electrical code requirements for UL listing through similar reciprocity agreements.
So whoever is giving you this information is likely mis-informed at best or disingenuous at worst.
I have learned in my distribution business that no large distributor will sell any electrical device without requiring appropriate certifications and manufacturer liability insurance. Too much liability to their business otherwise.
Your insurance company will accept EN60335-1 certification in lieu of UL60335-1 certification. Let us know if you get documentation to the countrary from your insurance company, I am likely subject to a similar requirement in my policy, and I do have the 3000W Victron inverter installed already, and that would be disturbing.
There may be other reasons not to like Victron products, but safety testing and required certifications should not deter anyone from buying Victron.
I also have ALL Victron equipment installed on my coach.. Works great and easily communicates with each of the pieces. I am very happy with it and would do it again if needed.
Great products and if you decide to use Victron which many of us have.. Use BayMarinesupply.com He helped most of us with ourp urchases ..Allen is his name
I hope this settles that topic for the future of discussions.. Sometimes it just sounds like someone wasnt happy with their purchases so they talk the other company down.. Not sure why it keeps getting repeated.. I guess if you say it enough times its believable?
Carry on!!
No matter what brand you decide you really cant go wrong.. some prefer other brands for other reasons.
Your best bet in a Foretravel, is the Magnum Pro-Sine inverter with Gell batteries.
I had a Heart Interface, but that older technology, also the warranty of 3 years on the Magnum,
and customer service outweighs anything out there. I talk of many years experience.
Happy New Year to All from Canada,
Alexander
Victron warranty
https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/20150209_Warranty_final_en.pdf
Mark; give this guy a call. He does lots of solar installs and can help you out! His name is Brian Boone and he also has a facebook page to ask questions, but I would give him a call. Very knowledgeable! There is lots of information on YouTube from very knowledgeable folks that are using Victrons as well as Magnum products. The Hybrid is new technology and yes, can run an A/C if set up right!
RV BOONDOCKING WITH SOLAR (https://gotsolarinstalled.blogspot.com/)
Exactly as stated.
Victron system works great
Allen at Bay marine is the BEST!
Victron 3k hybrid is my plan. Cheap - no, versital and flexible - yes. Hopefully I can run one roof AC on the road without the generator using solar and alternator and some battery. 50 amp sites all taken, use a 30 amp site. My new Mach 3 PS front ac is only 1200/1320 watts at ARI/desert conditions vs my old rear ac unit at 1600/1930 watts. Replace the new condenser/evaporator fan motor with an ecm motor and drop another 100-150 watts per unit. Can a 13,500 btuh AC unit be built that uses less than 900 watts, the answer is yes, just needs bigger condenser coil. Can that roof real estate taken up by the roof AC units be covered by a removable for service or hinged solar panel, why not.
Have the victron 3000 and a micro air on front ac. Have run it for 10 minutes on just batteries. But SOC was falling pretty quick. Need to run down the road with alternator charging batteries and good solar, to find out if it feasible.
If I recall from your previous posts the micro air is a soft start device for the compressor starting, demand which is great for an inverter but doesn't reduce energy use once at full load. Seems like the real Achilles heel of our coaches is the really poor efficiency of the roof AC units and that has a 30-40% room for energy use improvement lf not more during the nightime cooler hours. Once you address the very poor efficiency AC unit ssues all coach electrical power systems benefit another couple of percent from losses. Kinda like a snowball effect. Less wear and tear on everything electrical.
Thanks for the info.
Does anyone know where to fix or buy parts for the Victron units?
I have scrapped a dozen old inverters through my inverter guy. No parts.
I went though all these choices 6 years ago when upgrading our 97.
Made in USA with parts and a local repair place was factored in.
One of the other choice was outback. Rugged quality. Sealed units available.
My guru did a lot but their software was not rv enough.
So ten years ago he switched to Magnum and mk gels.
Lifelines were his AGM recommendation as they are high quality.
He had a few warranty issues so he switched on his own to the same mk gels as every unicoach made
The magnum does have a dedicated profile that few inverters seem to have with voltage and equalization settings specific to lifeline agm's so if someday I wanted the additional 37 amp hours out of three 8d's useable to 50% SOC versus std AGM the charger can control it automatically.
Victron equipment seems to have a good reputation among the boating crowd and I believe that is their major market focus.
As I posted before part of my objection was that on a boating forum I ran across people putting Victron inverter chargers in the engine compartment on gas engined boats,
There was no warning in the Victron literature or web site that their units were not ,like most units, were NOT non sparking designs.
Magnum notes in their literature and on their website about the non no sparking construction.
Outback sells expensive sealed inverter/chargers that are UL certified non sparking.
As far as I can read the Victron control units have a non re programmable charging profile like the standard magnum me-rc that starts bulk charging at 80% SOC.
In other words in an storage situation with the coach plugged in the batteries will be cycled from 100% to 80% continuously.
If you happen to go to the coach at the bottom of the charging cycle you are at 80% SOC starting out. In my case that's 130 amp hours.
Magnum addressed this issue with the ME-ARC panel where the SOC drop before the charger kicks in is adjustable up to 99%.
That lessens the unneeded battery cycling.
Plus the built in lifeline program and its almost 30% higher power output and made in USA with parts available and a 60 amp pass through made the Magnum worth the extra 25% price to me. Dual fans. Ambulance cerified. Stainless internal bolts. Coated boards.
I am aware of Victron's boating presence just am worried about the lack of warning customers about the potential spark issue.
Foretravel put my oem inverter in an adjoining compartment next to the battery compartment and fit the coach with non gas producing sealed gel batteries.
The industries other inverter choices are all 3,000 watt units that weigh in the mid 50 pound weight area versus 42 pounds.
The India construction and my inverter guys having no part availability were issues as was the lower power and transfer amps and the non availability of a remote that can be altered to not endlessly cycle the batteries were considerations.
Alll inverters have service needing parts in them. Contactors, cooling fan and such. Parts will be required sooner or later.
I tested our rebuilt 160 amp LN on a Vegas drive by baking a large dish in the convection microwave and plugged in the refer to the inverter side of the plug in the refer compartment and turned on the magnum inverter with no generator and tested the system for several hours. Lots of flickering gsugez as the loads came on and off.
A inverter/ charger I thought should be able to do this if needed. Versus run the gen. What if it was non op?
Having a backup way to run the 110 volt power without the gen being on from the alternator only seemed a valid backup.
I also had the chest refer on underneath the coach using 12 volts at the same time.
Can a multipass do this? Just asking if anyone has tested theirs this way?
No sour grapes from me. Given the current choices I still would use the Magnum instead of a Victron and for the wider temp range the mk oem gel batteries.
The hybrid had little advantage to me as my potential need to draw more power than a non 50 amp shorepower can provide was very low as we still have our absorption refer and propane cook top.
Your personal uses and lifestyle differences may have you select different equipment than I did.
Just thought I would mention my decision points.
My Victron is able to connect via bluetooth and set any perameters I want. User set or they have some preset rythms you can use. All the interface has the ability to be custom programmed with a dongle or thru built in blootooth. not sure how or where you read they were not. I have the inverter programmed to charge lithium batteries with a custom profile I put in. It took less than a min to program and finish.. Nice having everything interfaced with one brand and I have the color display in the cab to read everything with a glance.. very happy with it and only time I touch it is to turn the inverter on or off.. very nice features though.
Parts? Havnt seen or heard anyone that has had an issue with a failed part yet and mine is going strong after 1.5 yrs.
David you can change the charging profile to override the standard 80% setting? The Victron literature I read says it not adjustable like the magnum ME-RC which is also not adjustable. Only the ME-ARC has that ability.
Just trying to learn.
My original freedom 25 and Amos Harrison's here both had contactor corrosion develop over 15 years or so reducing the amount of charging amps the charger put out to the batteries.
I watch my inverter man clean the dusty boards in old inverters and retighten the internal wirings connections and replace the contacters and the cooling fans to send them back out again.
He reseals the old boards,
The magnum has sealed boards in them now. Not mentioned for other brands. As is non corrosion internal fasteners use mentioned,
Sooner or later all electronic devices will require service.
I have now had an all Victron house system including the Multipass for over two years. No component issues. I believe I was one of the first on this site to use their entire system. I do not use the Bluetooth dongle. l have installed the CCGX. I use the Wi-Fi capability to monitor my system when I am not at the coach. I also used it to allow AM Solar to enter my system and read out the data, including the Multipass, to validate my install and settings of their kit. The Multipass is easily programmed and if you anticipate future use of lithium it is directly compatible as are their solar controllers.
Thanks Tim for adding the info on certifications.
Here you go Bob. Infinitely adjustable.
https://battlebornbatteries.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Victron-MultiPlus-12V-3000W-.pdf
You can use the battery type profiles, or actually change the times and voltages on each stage of charging.