I have a 1997 Allinson 3060R transmission. I installed the joystick, joystick module, and y connector from FT. No brake relays in new harness to joystick. No light at retarder switch, pulled bulb and it is not blown. Transmission fluid changed by Cummins dealership in 2017 along with both filters. 54,000 miles on coach.
This is my first diesel pusher. I don't know if my retarder has ever worked during my ownership. Turning on the switch didn't ever make a difference in braking. I don't remember if the retarder switch "lit up" when I bought it. It would not give an oil level at transmission pad, took it to MOT for bulkhead work and they did some diagnostics on transmission without success last spring (2018) for not being able to do the oil level check from the transmission pad.
The motorhome drives and shifts well. I've gone 12,000 miles since July 2016. Been to Albuquerque, Pagosa Springs, etc. multiple times. Have just set up my toad and wanted the joystick because of all the mountain driving I do and will do upon retirement six months from now. Drove it to test joystick. Drove and shifted well, no apparent retard activation at 45 mph, gas off, all positions explored, retard switch on and off.
Fault code: d1-4523 "h solenoid circuit open" according to Barry Beam diagnostic sheet
Fault code: d2-3323 "sump temperature failed high"
No other fault codes.
My Allinson TCU is located streetside pass through storage bay, stern side of wall. Has three large connectors. This is a 1998 U270 36 footer, 325hp C8.3 Cummins built in February 1998. I live in McKinney north of Dallas. I have modest electrical diagnostic skills. Once rewired a 1951 Chevy, have added many accessories to cars, trailers, motorhomes, repaired rodent damage on Miata, bass boat, scooter, have done some home wiring.
Looking to start simple, doable and then punt to professionals if necessary. I work full time and fight for time. Coach is currently next to house and up on safety stands to allow me to get underneath coach to check connections at transmission. I need a windshield replaced, so one thought is to take to Nach and let FT sort it out if necessary, or go into Dallas to the Allinson repair facility. Not too confident in the local dealerships. Nobody wakes up wanting to work on a motorhome at a commercial truck dealership.
My retarder has quit working a couple of times, giving this relay a rap with a handle of a screw driver gets it back in business. Reminds me I need to replace it..... located in the mess of wires ahead of the Allison touchpad.
Worth a try, I'll try to find it. Thanks, really appreciate the photo, that makes things a bit easier.
Use a signal tracer connected to the xmision end. You will be able to find the relay easily. Just connect the xmitter at the xmision and use the wand to locate the relay. There are a lot of tracers out there, and most of them have to do with tracing computer wiring around thru complex cable bundles. The "screw driver trick" doesn't always work. Have a great day ---- Fritz
I don't have a signal tracer in my tool kit. Do you have a recommendation?
With these codes/symptoms you need to check your trans. communication cable connections. The one on the trans can get dirty causing false info. The ones on the ECM in the drivers side foot kick panel need to be checked. You could have a cable that is frayed or a mouse has ate the insulation can cause problems. Once you check cables clear your codes then go for a drive and see if they return. If they do consider going to Stewart & Stevenson | Home (http://www.stewartandstevenson.com/) in Longview to have them look at it. They are familiar with Foretravels as they are where most places in Nac. send there trans troubles to have them fixed.
Mike
Hey RealMccoy ---- I have the TT100 tone tracer from "Test-Um Inc". Go to "www.Test-Um.com" This is a nice sized unit to pack around with you. I keep mine in the MH because that is where I use it most. Have a great day ---- Fritz
Fritz,
I totally agree. My tone chaser is a Fluke Pro3000 brand but it accomplishes the same job. I have found it invaluable both in the coach and in my previous stick and bricks abode.
Richard
It's over the bridge now but I think you should have gotten the retarder working first then worry about the stick.We have had ours
to Alaska and back and thru mountains with just the rocker switch which works good for me.Think you need to find a shop to
diagnose and go from there,the joystick seems to have added to the confusion.Have you manually checked the fluid level with
the dipstick,don't assume the shop put the right amount in.Not sure when the cutoff was but some of the transmissions near
that year don't have the electronic dipstick yours may be one of those.If you can find a shop that works on fire trucks they may be
retarder knowlegible,when you say retarder to some of these shops they think you mean an exhaust brake.
Hindsight is Foresight in a Foretravel.
Not sure what that means with trying to fix your problem.
You failed to mention if these are ACTIVE or INACTIVE CODES. You said it wouldn't indicate an oil level on the keypad, does any part of the oil indication sequence display or does the sequence fail completely. If you have no shorts or opens in the harness and the connections are clean, it sounds like a transmission ECU is in order. If you have done the procedures in the trouble shooting chart and have not found the problem, a trip to Stewart and Stevenson is next. I have used the one in Houston with great success and assume the one near you would be the same.
Due to work schedule can't do anything until Monday. Will start with connections, clear codes, and do test drive. Will post results of test drive. Borrowed tone tracer from work. I'm also studying the touch pad procedures to better understand them, especially the check fluid procedure. Transmission fluid level has been checked on stick at operating temp. It is on mark and smells fine and looks new. Thanks for the help.
Stewart & Stevenson, Longview, replaced P3 carrier on the transmission in our 1997 U295 in August, 2016. They were courteous, effective, and familiar with working on a U295. If you don't find the solution locally, they may be able to help.
Is this round electrical connector on my transmission the retarder electrical connection? And if it is, how does it come apart?
Appreciate info on Longview trans shop. That is now plan B.
Should be able to pull that metal clip and wiggle loose.
But, clean the area around it very well before removing-- you don't want dirt in there!
On to plan B. Have an appointment in two weeks.
Before doing anything else, contact John-- this is what he does for a living: Transmission Instruments (http://www.transmissioninstruments.com/)
I do not know if he deals with retarder function, but shift pad and ECU's are HIS THING!
Update: Picking up motor home from Stewart Stevenson in Longview tomorrow afternoon. The connection plug for the retarder was bad and the temperature sensor in the transmission was bad, which also required replacement of an internal wiring harness. They have road tested the vehicle and no more error codes, can now check fluid levels from the selector, the retarder works including all joystick positions. After driving without a functioning retarder, I'm looking forward to driving the mountains this summer on my trip to the Conejos in Colorado where we will camp with my son and family. Then off to Portland. Last summer I really struggled in a few spots around Philmont and Red River NM to hold speed with just gearing.
We were just going to post in Foretravel sightings as to seeing a coach at S&S this afternoon. Now we know who it is.
With the retarder working properly the area around Red River& Conejos will be a no issue. Have a great trip
Pamela & Mike
The internal wiring harness with sensor is $500.00. But you can replace just the sensor for $85.00/ I went through this.
You'll lave having it work again
Here is my old post:
Retarder repair (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=35767.msg336134#msg336134)
Now you'll be able to relax. No white knuckles. Glad you got it fixed.
jor
Drove home the 160 miles from Longview to McKinney late this afternoon into the night. This was my first experience with a working retarder. I like. The retarder is oriented so that pulling it back is whoa, forward is go. No brake light activation with joystick. Replacement of temperature sensor means the trans temperature gauge now reads accurately and that also allows the remote oil level check to work. No codes after trip home and level read OK. Driving US 80, 635, and US 75 in dark during rush hour required some careful checking of mirrors, but traffic moved rather well. Even had two motorists allow me to switch lanes after signalling my desire to move over. Maybe they just didn't like 55 feet of motor home and toad headed in their direction in the dark.
The more you get used to the retarder, the more you will love it, IMO. I could never consider another coach that didn't have the retarder. got spoiled to early in this coach. The next one has to have the retarder, plus my grand kids think the joy stick is really cool. ^.^d
Larry
I don't drive the toad that much, but had to take the new computer from Payson to Camp Verde for a hot rodding. There is a very steep grade down to the valley and I reached over and instinctively REACHED FOR THE RETARDER!! Whoops, wrong rig. :facepalm:
FYI
The gauge on the dash, is not controlled via the retarder sensor. It has it's own separate sender in the cooler line. The warning light is controlled by the Retarder sensor.
Actual retarder temp, may be much hotter then the gauge reads when in use.
Glad you have it fixed.
Chris
Chris is the dash gauge normally the trans sump temp?
They also found a bad temp sensor and replaced it. I had two separate problems. I understand from previous discussions that the temp sensor location doesn't reflect spike in trans oil temps from retarder use. I'm re-reading older discussions about retarder use from the more expert board members. Will take a slow approach with gears, retarder and service brakes as needed. Always amazed by wealth of information here.
Transmission retarders do one thing for a living-- they turn momentum into HEAT.
That is why transmission temperature needs to be monitored if using the retarder on those LONG grades.
On long grades, use the down arrow to select a gear that will keep engine RPM near the high end of the engine RPM range.
Why?? Yes, there is a little more engine braking, but much more importantly, the water pump is sending a lot more cooling water through the transmission heat exchanger.
That is correct. The dash gauge does not reflect spikes in retarder cooler, or retarder area of the trans.
On ours, the trans temp never went up to anything abnormal, but yet cold, it would flash the warning light (and dinger).
I pulled the retarder sensor put it in hot water, and based on correct ohm readings, as the sensor warmed in the water, the ohm's would spike for a flash.
My fear was, if it (retarder sensor) went bad, going to max ohm's, it could (and would based on tech info) send trans into limp mode.
Cheers
Correct, but not the retarder area including the cooler.
There are 2 sensors. The one FT put in the cooling lines which controls the dash gauge. Then there is the retarder sensor in the retarder area in the back of the trans.That one controls the over temp light and dinger.
My Understanding is, retarder temp is much higher them sump temp when in use.
My understanding is they did this, because people would panic if the saw the temp rise quickly, and to the level it goes to in the retarder cooler area.
Just going on what I was told, and read.
Cheers
Retarder sensor:
29512616-S Sensor for Allison Transmissions | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/29512616-S-Sensor-for-Allison-Transmissions-/281353569112?hash=item4181fac358)
If you buy it with the harness, it's $500.00. Harness rarely goes bad.
I think my dash gauge is the sump as you posted.
VPMS trans temp moves fairly quickly with the retarder engaged down grades.
Dash gauge does not.
Ding seems to match the VPMS's trans temp
Ding and shutdown notice at 250?
Two -Three miles flat ground at 70 degrees ambient turns off the shutdown ding.
Very pessimistic system. Wonder what retarder temp has to be to shed load?
If memory serves me it's 300 degrees.
Might have my shop reprogram the light and ding's temp setting up a bit so as to not scare other coach passengers unnecessarily.
Fun to play with a jake if one drifted my
Bob
YIKES! 300 degree's
Interesting, never seen anything above 205 on dash gauge. Our silverleaf and dash gauge read the same all the way.
Ours is hooked to Cat computer.
I have head of people moving the dash gauge sender some where else.
I threw my trans temp gauge away in the drag car. Don't want to know anything like that going into the final money round!
I have a shut off switch on dinger. Scares the cats when building air.
Cheers Chris
Yes 300. My garbage trucks guys fleets ran over 250 degrees forever. I rode along as I did not believe him. Busses the same. Gillig. I have had mine to the 230's many times. Live in the Rockies. 250+ once just to verify that the dinger works.
300 for an hour to burn trans oil is what I remember. Turns orange. Smells burned.
My engines dash temp gauge was too high. Not from the engines ECU. separate sender on the block. 10-15 degrees high.