Working on a project in which I need to make a drawer front to match (hopefully, anyway...) the ones in our coach 99' U270. I have ¼" and ⅛" round over/beading bits which are close, but not quite right. I could do some thing different since this isn't a drawer, but rather a cooktop slide. Still, I have a need to make other drawers, so I would like to get this figured out. I assume FOT does these with a shaper as they make so many, but I would think that this would be a pretty common profile. Any leads, links, or other info would be appreciated! To put this in context, I will attach some photos of the project in process... I will post more info on the project if there is interest :o
Don
Don,
I always appreciate your write ups and projects, keep up the fine work. Looks amazing.
Have you contacted Flanigan?
We had them build a couple of louvered doors a while back. Price not bad.
You could take the door to Woodcrafters. They have a pretty good selection of cutter heads.
Don, you always do nice work. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. 😊
Don, like the others, can't wait to see the final results. Have you looked at Rockler.com. All kinds of woodworking tools and supplies.
Larry
When Jim added drawers and doors to our interior, he searched for a router bit, etc. He had various cabinet makers look at the doors/drawers. No one could match it. In the end, we ordered them from Foretravel. I don't remember what we paid for the fronts, but it wasn't unreasonable.
Would be smart of Foretravel to have custom router bits would it not?
Don,
They probably used custom cutters. Your drawer edge is different from the ones in my coach. It looks more like an eliptical round over than a straight radius. Look at this one. Use a 3/8" bearing instead of the 1/2" one to get a step on the outside edge.
ER.1.375 1-3/8" Small Elliptical Radius bit - 12vTools.com (https://12vtools.com/product/er-1-375-1-38-small-elliptical-radius-bit/)
Custom router bits ot shaper cutters are pretty expensive. I have a Southwestern style door cutter set that is close to the profile used in out coach, close enough for me.
I suppose that Foretravel might have created custom profiles, but the differences are pretty subtle. I have nothing against buying drawer fronts from Foretravel (or cabinet doors, etc.), it is just that I like to work on things as the inspiration finds me and don't like to wait for external solutions. I may just do something different on the cooktop slide for now and if I feel the need to duplicate the original drawer fronts for this project, get them from Fortravel. I find my designs evolve as I go and dimensions change as I see the need. I can get close to the original FOT profile (I think) using two different bits with multiple passes, but it is much harder to be consistent across multiple items. Still, I may give that a try because this needs to be done (or at least, I want it to be done) before we leave for a long trip.
Don
Thanks for the suggestion Roger, that looks close (with the smaller bearing). I will investigate further...
Don
Very nice work Don!
Get one of those contour gauges that are used for cutting tile or flooring,use it on the drawer and then search the various sites
that sell bits,most of them have a profile of the cut the bit would make and just match it up.
Don excellent work as usual, but can you please explain the advantage of having a cooktop slide?
My DW said she would like it to stop the heat marks on the wall behind the back burner when using a large pan.
I would think the oil/grease splatter on the rear wall or tile also..
Cheater! :))
My main consideration for having the cooktop slide is for counter space preservation. Part of the project not yet completed is the Corian cover, which will be in two segments. I scored a Corian counter top that is an exact color match from Dave Flanigan while at Foretravel for fifty bucks. It was installed in something, based on the silicon residue on the underside, and then perhaps removed for remodeling purposes. In anycase, there is enough material to make a matching cooktop cover, a slide out shelf for the other side of the sink, and for trimming the cooktop opening. The plan is that when the cooktop is slid out and with both segments of the cover in place, the smaller 6000BTU burner will be accessible with the entire counter space usable behind, and the drawer underneath almost entirely accessible. With the cooktop slid out and with the front section of the cover removed, both burners will be usable and there will be about 14" of counter space behind the large 12,000BTU burner available to set pots. The front section of the cover will be able to be stowed on top of the back cover. Finally, with the rear section of the two piece cover tilted up against the back wall, the entire cooktop could be used without the unit being slid out. The later scenario will be made possible because I will line the bottom of the cooktop cover with some 24 gauge stainless steel sheet to strengthen and protect the bottom of the cover from reflected heat. Well that is the plan anyway... we will see how practical it turns out in reality.
Don
Edit: Below is a picture of the surplus countertop I picked up from Dave F. at FOT and the the cracked cooktop cover that I removed from the OEM Magic Chef cooktop. You can see that they are the same color...
2nd edit: To try and make the description more understandable
I had David Flanigan do a similar project - I removed my Gagenau two burner cooktop (anyone want it BTW?) and replace it with a two burner True Induction unit.
Pros -
LOVE Induction - only way to go for cooking once you have tried it - yes you need ferrous pans to make it work Counter space galore - Mine is set up to pull out one burner or two burner worth and still use the countertop with the Corian insert in the top (yes even with two heavy pots) Was my last propane device - I now have all electric coach - so took out the propane tank - HUGE STORAGE SPACE created
Cons - when you use two burners you are limited to 1800 Watts (15 Amps @ 115V) so both burners can not be on high at the same time - I still have my countertop induction hot plate, so I can plug that in on another circuit if needed (usually outside the coach on cord from power pole) and have two on high and one on medium)
Love the countertop space, the space where the tank was and also using the countertop while cooking.
Bulkhead repair done at MOT - adding MCD shades though out in coach this week.
John S - remembered to delete my auto signature this time, should get rid of the pesky web addresses
Great idea. How are you breaking the corners on that stainless sheet? Did you have a sheet metal shop build those or did you self perform that work?
I have a HF cheapie 30" brake that I used when doing the utility bay stainless treatment. It wasn't able to make crisp bends with the 22 gauge stainless I used for most of it, but I liked the soft radius I ended up with for that project. The brushed stainless sheet I used for the cooktop project is 26 gauge (I think), and the bends were fairly crisp and so worked out well. For the short sections wrapping the notch on the back of the unit, I just used a hand held seamer to start it and then a block of wood and a hammer to finish it while it was clamped in place on the slide. I used fast cure 3M 5200 to glue it to the slide and that worked very effectively.
Don