Can someone tell me what the below means....
ELECTRICAL
110 vac automatic changeover
75 Amp. converter charger
6.5 K.W. Onan
50 Amp. shoreline
Master battery disconnect switch
The FT specs from the Beam page.... 1985 ( November 85) GV Front Gas Engine... if we plug our coach up to 110 in our driveway with an adaptor.... will this charge up the house batteries....??/. Or better to put a trickle charge on the house batteries?
"110 vac automatic changeover" means you have a ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) that will switch between shore power and generator power to supply 110V to the coach.
"75 Amp. converter charger" means you have a combination DC converter and battery charger. If the coach is plugged in to shore power (or the generator is running), the battery charger will supply charging current to the house (coach) batteries. Unless the coach has been modified in some way, the stock battery charger will not charge the chassis (engine start) battery.
To keep the start battery charged, you will need to add some type of additional charging device. One (of many) possible solutions:
TRIK-L-START (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/trik-l-start.html)
Your coach should be set up that when you connect to shore power, the house batteries are charged. You may want to add a trickle charger or batter maintainer so that the chassis batteries also get charged when connected to shore power.
So.... we just purchased a 50amp/ to 15 110 v adaptor... we want to run a cord from the garage to the coach and keep the house batteries charged.... instead of running the generator periodically through the month. Is this correct ???
This has been discussed recently on the Forum. I'll try to find the thread. A 15 amp standard household outlet will supply adequate amperage to run the 75 amp coach battery charger and keep the house batteries charged. You will want to reduce any other 110V draw in the coach to a bare minimum. For instance, don't try to simultaneously run any 110V space heaters, or the air conditioner, or a residential fridge.
In this thread we talked about running the coach charging system on a 15 amp shore power outlet:
We now fit in.... (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=36129)
If the DC converter/charger in your coach is OEM, it is 1985 technology. I.E. it does the job, but in a crude manner. If you have conventional flooded house batteries, you would be well advised to keep a close eye on the electrolyte level. The OEM charger may tend to overcharge the batteries and boil the water out of them. If you have maintenance free AGM batteries, they are more tolerant of the abuse, but can still be over charged and damaged.
Upgrading from your old converter/charger (and separate inverter?) to a modern pure sine inverter/charger would be money well spent.
I use this smart isolator, it defaults to the engine battery until it is charged, and then redirects the charger or altenator output to the house batteries. If the engine battery voltage drops below a certain level it switches back to charge it.
So far both batteries are always charged.
Amazon.com: Cole Hersee 48530 Smart Battery Isolator 200A: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-48530-Battery-Isolator/dp/B00LMGPHW2)
I would modify Chuck's MAY to Will overcharge the house batteries if you leave your convertor going 24/7. Please replace it as soon as possible as the guys have said.
If I may, on Brett's recommendation, I have a standard Lowes or Home Depot, 120VAC timer, inline with the 120VAC outlet. The timer is set to come on twice a day for about an hour. Seems to keep our batteries fully charged with minimum loss of water, but I do check them every couple of months. Also have the Amp-L-Start installed.
Good luck and safe travels.
I do the same as Charles on both house and chassis batteries. Now 7 years.
When using the 15 amp plug in our garage connected to the shore power.... is the " Salesman's Switch " in the on position to charge house batteries or is the disconnect OFF. ?
The salesman switch has nothing to do with the converter/charger or charging of the batteries. It is simply a convenient way to turn off the 12 volt lights in the coach when you are away for the day. Leaving it off while the coach is in storage will help to minimize drain on the coach batteries.
Poking around our U225 prior to moving in, I was pleased to find a Progressive Dynamics PD60 on one of the through bays. So somewhere along the line newer technology was installed. We installed a PD 9260 in our Rockwood, along with a 100A 100MV shunt and a 50 MV full scale meter to monitor the charger rate. Yes the meter pegs when we begin the morning charge after a cold night but so far the movement hasn't been fried.
OH. My point? Crawl into whatever deep recess you converter-charger is installed and read the data plate.
EXCELLENT ADVICE for all new coach owners. One never knows what kind of "modifications" (good or bad) were made to these old coaches by prior owners. Simply depending on the OEM spec sheet could certainly lead you astray. A thorough investigation of every nook and cranny may reveal hidden treasures...or lurking potential problems. Best to discover
nasty surprises in the relative comfort of your driveway, shop, or storage location, rather than on the side of some busy highway.
The Progressive Dynamics PD60 can be enhanced by the $30 plug and play charge wizard into a automatic 4 stage charger. Takes less than 5 minutes to install.
My coach came with a PD 9160A and two six year old Interstate workaholic wet cell house batteries when I bought it 7 years ago. Upon advice from Dave Head I added a Charge Wizard and a trickle start for them and the 3 Optima blue top starting batteries. I replaced the workaholics in 2012 and the Blue Tops in 2013. This system has done done very well in maintaining both sets and I haven't had any problems. Put in fresh workaholics last year ($400).
Charge Wizard (Flooded & AGM) (http://www.bestconverter.com/Charge-Wizard-Flooded-AGM_p_15.html#.XIke03N7njA)
Jerry
A converter/charger like the PD60 would certainly be a nice upgrade over the mid 80's to early 90's OEM Foretravel equipment, especially with the added "smart charger" dongle. IF you go this route, and IF you require a inverter for any reason, then you have to either use the original unit that came with the coach, or install a more modern stand alone inverter. There has been some good discussion (here) in the past on the question of having 2 devices (converter/charger + inverter) versus having a single device ( inverter/charger). I think some good cases were made for both modes of operation. Depends a lot on how you plan to use your coach, and what other upgrades you might make in the future (such as solar). Also need to look at total cost of buying two units, versus one single unit, and the cost of installation. Changing from OEM equipment to something completely different may involve other extra cost upgrades, like new battery/power cables and remote control panels.
Pays to think this stuff through carefully before you leap - may save you time and money down the road.