Attached is a photo of what the PTL engineering actuator replacement kit for the deadbolt on my '03 looks like. The original actuator has been discontinued. It comes with instructions, actuator, rod , and fasteners.
PTL part #027-071
$89.46
I searched around and found these which I believe are the identical actuator with the same 12lbs of pull, for a lot less money;
CARCHET Central Locking Car Auto Universal Heavy Duty Power Slave Door Lock... (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Car-Auto-Universal-Heavy-Duty-Power-Slave-Door-Lock-Actuator-for-Motor-Central-Locking-System-2/32601414903.html)
https://www.classiccarinterior.com/dakota-digital-door-actuators-12-lbs-push-or-pull.html
Car Auto Universal Heavy Duty Power Slave Door Lock Actuator Motor 2 Wire... (https://m.dhgate.com/product/car-auto-universal-heavy-duty-power-slave/402503207.html#pd-112)
I just ordered this one;
Amazon.com: Absolute DLA-310 Door Lock Actuator: Gateway (https://www.amazon.com/Absolute-DLA-310-Door-Lock-Actuator/dp/B007A7UFQA/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=Absolute+dla-310&qid=1554430375&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull)
Additionally, most other actuators won't fit the entry door because they're either too cylindrical / thick or pistol shaped. I'm happy to be just replacing the actuator and not having to take the door apart inside to get at the upper arm.
Our dead bolt doesn't work with the actuator any more. I have not taken anything apart yet to see what the problem is yet. Should I start just by taking the door panel off to see what the problem is? Looks like I will have to remove the window frame, does the handle you pull to close the door stay on the door panel? Everything else looks pretty straight forward at least standing there looking at it not actually doing it yet. Is there anything I need to be watching out for?
John, my actuator wasn't working either, it was a simple fix, I hope yours is also. The wires between the door and the jamb were broken where they make a 90 deg turn back up. I was able to open the splitloom there and found the problem thanks to this great group of members and beamalarm (Berry).
Here's the link:
Electric Door Lock Wiring Repair (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/electric_door_lock_wiring_repair.html)
You're welcome John, hopefully it's the just rod that came off between the actuator and latch then. I did take the latch cover off first, and I believe you can see the actuator and rod from there without pulling the whole door panel off.
Rookie:)
I repaired one actuator on a compartment door by re-soldering the wires back on to the metal plug contacts.
The one in the entry door has a broken nylon gear that can't be mended.
We ordered two actuators mostly because I wasn't paying attention and ordered the wrong one, which ended up being the one we used. It was a part no 330-010 off eBay. We tried the one T-man got and it didn't seem to have enough power to push the mechanism. It may have just been a bad part because although it extended it did not stay in the extended position when you released the fob. In any case it took some creative engineering to get this one to work and about 3 weekends of playing with it to get it right but it is finally done and working. Sorry I could not get the picture to rotate on my work computer so it is sideways. we had to go with adjustable throttle linkage to attach the rod to the locking mechanism, Sorry I should have taken a picture from that side as well but once it was together I didn't want to take it apart again.