I'm repairing some rust around the "flap" in my utility bay. I'm thinking about using this product to stabilize the area after I've thoroughly dried and cleaned the area. Has anyone else used it? Any other suggestions?
Amazon.com: BEST SUPPLY MROChem Black Star Rust Converter - Converts Rust on... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01285UCN4/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?pd_rd_i=B01285UIWE&pd_rd_w=cgzP9&pf_rd_p=80559f3c-f83b-49c1-8a72-40f936e9df7a&pd_rd_wg=k3sCV&pf_rd_r=EDXKXHPSBYX8EQVYRZT4&pd_rd_r=3e93ac54-4841-11e9-8b1b-b5a69bc8a492&th=1)
George,
Get just as good or better results from a dilute solution of phosphoric acid. OSPHO is one of the popular brands of this solution. It chemically changes iron oxide to iron phosphate, an inert salt, ie., no more oxidation. All this for a fraction of the cost of the product you mentioned. Available a most hardware stores and box stores too.
When OSPHO dries, the surface is primed and ready for painting. Works really well to stop and prevent oxidation on surfaces one wants to paint and do not need lubrication.
For surfaces that need lubrication and no painting, CorrosionX is one of the best choices.
All or most of the "rust converter" products still need to be painted,I keep saying,rust bullet or por15.And as Rudy says,if it is
rubbing or moving together Corrosionx is good.
I use a product called Corroseal, used it on Tuna boats and tug boats for over 30 years. Looks like milk when applied and dries to a black color then it's ready to paint.
Thanks, guys. The "Black Star" appealed to me because it includes a polymer and would not need to be painted. I'm going to apply the rust inhibitor to areas that will be impossible to paint. Keith Risch at MOT recommended OSPHO. Still undecided.
From reading the forum Keith sounds like a stand up guy but my expierience is the ospho is good but if that's all he ever used
then he has no idea if one is better or worse then the other.Sort of like asking a mechanic about synthetic oil when he has not
ever used it,he really has no clue.
That's the ticket. The polymer is crucial. Fighting the rust wars in Port Aransas at the marine lab we found the best product, by far, to be Conquest by Chemsearch. It, like all the others, is tannic acid based. Unlike others, it included a polymer that functioned as a primer as well. It dried to a slick, hard black surface. You could treat rusty mild steel and it could lie outside in the salt air for six months before rusting again. We typically coated the treated surfaces with multiple coats of either LPS3 or enamel paint. I've seen an electrical disconnect box last ten years, exposed to salt spray and constant salt wind mounted a few feet off the jetties when treated with conquest/LPS3.
Unfortunately, Conquest is very expensive and available to trade/industrial users only. So, I'm keenly interested in your experience with the Black Star product. Ospho....good to treat light surface rust but no durability. Tried numerous other similar consumer grade stuff as well but low durability.
Rust converters (https://corrosion-doctors.org/MetalCoatings/rust-converter.htm)
Look up Extend, works and
Leaves polymer coating Just like the above boat stuff .
And is sheeper.
I have a couple old Mercedes in addition to my GV, and Kent Bergsma at Mercedes Source loves this stuff called Miracle Paint and he sometimes uses it with fiberglass cloth for some non structural body repairs. It sounds pretty similar to that marine stuff.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=149&v=0UKPNaBAKFs
Miracle Paint For Permanent Rust Repair QUART Black - Free Brushes and... (https://mercedessource.com/store/miracle-paint-permanent-rust-repair-quart-black-free-brushes-and-gloves)
It may be the same as this. not sure.
Auto Rust Paint, Miracle Paint Rust Killer, Rust Paint, Paint Rust Killer -... (http://www.hirschauto.com/Miracle-Paint-Rust-Killer/products/3/)
Could you post some info onyour Diesel conversion?