After going through the archives on fuel line air leaks, the consensuses 6 years ago was to change the Winn system out with a Parker/Racor 790R30 system. After using it for a while, is this still the one to use for replacement?
On a couple of threads, some members had installed the Davco 382. Don't know the differences, but any opinions on which one and why.
Also wasn't fully clear whether the Racor had an electric or manual primer, or none at all.
I would appreciate any input.
Thanks,
Larry
The description of the Racor seems pretty clear on the primer question:
http://ph.parker.com/us/en/spin-on-filter-pump-systems/790r30-12v-dc-pump
Theres some info at beamalarm on Racor. Don't know if it applies to your retrofit situation...
Racor RK12963 Retrofit Kit (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/racor_rk12963_retrofit_kit.html)
The Racor I installed has an electric primer.
Glad we have the old 8.3,spin 2 filters off,spin 2 on,start with no priming,pumping,or cussing.
I installed the 700 series Racor and was glad to be rid of the old filter set up - it is much simpler and I prefer not to have to re-visit a problem due to old accessories. The primer appears to work well.
Larry,
I put in the Davao 382 and while it does not have any priming mechanism, at least in our application, it isn't needed. I just drain the fuel in the bowl using the ball valve on the bottom, fill the bowl after the new filter is in and it is good to go. The filter sits on top of the housing and any fuel you pour in the top after removing the cap is filtered before it enters the out lineup. The Davao installation instructions say
presumably to prevent siphoning during filter change. I extended my fuel line to move the filter to the back of the engine because there is no way to meet the mounting location requirement in the location behind the drive wheels. I never liked the location above the chassis batteries anyway as everything had to be done at arms length. Much more convenient and easier to be clean while standing in front of the engine bay. That said, while the Davao 382 is a nice system, the Racor replacement would likely be a much easier installation. In the picture below, the Davco is on the right mounted on an extension of the main frame rail that supports the engine.
Don
Don, Wow that is one BIG filter. But I do like the location to the back. I might have to see if I have room whichever filter I put on. With the recent knee surgery it is problematic right now to get to the existing filter. Not having to get on the ground to work on it (or side of road) really appeal to me. Having worked as a millwright for 35 yrs, I always am looking for ways to make future maintenance easier to get to.
Larry
Well, something to think about if you are going to replace the fuel lines anyway... regardless of whichever filter system you decide upon. I think the rear of the engine bay is optimal for the location for the reasons you noted. Only possible downside I can see is a slightly longer total fuel line length than the location above the chassis batteries. Sine later coaches were done this way from the factory, it probably isn't an issue. I do like the simple visible indication of the fuel level in the clear bowl in on the Davco 382 that shows the degree of restriction. When the level of the fuel in the bowl gets up to the line which is near the top of the filter, it is time for a change. Simple.
Don
My fuel strainer and (one) filter are are at the rear of the engine bay. Right in front of you when you are standing there with the door open. It is a good place for it when you have to change a filter on the side of the road. If it hasn't happened to you yet just wait, it will. I like these new filters. Easy to see what is going on and it looks easier to change.
Don,
In your picture of a very clean engine compartment, what is the purpose of the gage just to the right side of filter? I have different engine but just curious and still in the learning stage. Very early, I might add. Thanks, Michael.
Roger, what type of system do you have?
Racor retrofit kit.
Racor RK12963 Retrofit Kit (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/racor_rk12963_retrofit_kit.html)
This one works fine. The prefilter strainer is going to plug up with sludge and algae goo before the next two filters do and you can see it. You can take the strainer part out and clean it with soap and water, rinse well and then an alcohol rinse. Reassemble, a few air purge cycles, start and run at high idle for two minutes, you are back in business.
Michael,
That is a gage for the wet tank. It is tapped off of a port on the air governor.
"Don,
In your picture of a very clean engine compartment, what is the purpose of the gage just to the right side of filter? I have different engine but just curious and still in the learning stage. Very early, I might add. Thanks, Michael.
"
That's the one I had and it gave me problems at lower (40 degrees or so) and so I replaced it. No more problems! I would NOT recommend using this kit. Far better to replace with something else.
David, which one did you use?
I used the Racor 790R30
I believe the davco drain hole is also threaded so you can screw in a drain hose and route to where your catch can is located. No mess this way
Larry, you have the M11 and don has the 8.3 I liked don's setup but I have M11 and there wasn't room in my engine compartment for that mount. I also used the Davco 382 but I mounted mine on driver side to frame extended fuel hoses 1-2'and the other 1'
The davao has a check valve on the line from the tank to keep it from siphoning back to tank. I think the best filter system Is the one thad does a good job filtering and fits your needs for maintenance issues. I don't think you have an ISM engine bit the fuel pump on a ISM is about 5K to rebuild so I want a very good filtering system. My primary if 10 microns and secondary is 5 m microns
Chris
I screwed in a hose barb to the bottom of the ball valve and just use a container (½ gal?) that I keep some clean diesel in and after the filter change I pour it back in. Since the cap on top of the bowl is on the dirty side of the filter, anything you put in there goes through the filter before it goes on down the line.
Don
When I "dissected" my OEM filter, I found that there was very little sludge trapped in the pre-filter, which made me wonder how useful it was. Most modern fuel dispensers (pumps) have filters, preventing most of the bad stuff from reaching the RV's fuel tanks.
Famous last words. Just like
road gators, sooner or later, they will get you. I noticed you used "most" in the above sentence twice. It only takes a little algae/water to start the process. Not much for $$ here to monitor fuel quality. Quite a few forum members as well al myself have encountered contaminated fuel. That is why I carry several extra filters on board.
Pierce
I think most fuel filters aren't useful at all--until you need them, and then they are priceless! That's why I have them and why I always carry spares. For me, it's just about the cheapest "insurance" one can buy!