I have a pretty quick air leak I believe is coming from a solenoid behind right rear tires but not sure what the part is called or where to get replacement. It's about the size of my fist and can be seen from the hatch directly behind the right rear tires...supposed to pick up coach tonight for purchase and he just called me and notified me about it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Post a pic plz.. My imagination isnt that good.. Older I get it takes sign language with words but a thump on my head first to make sure you have my attention
So I can't figure how to add photo lol but the gentleman I'm talking to is digging and says it looks like the HWH air dump valve but he isn't sure and he unfortunately doesn't have smart phone and I'm two hour drive from him
Does it look like this?
Mike
http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=12708.0;attach=3585
I have a picture how do I add it?
These are the pictures of the leaking valve
That is the new style retarder control unit. Most likely full of dirt/mud dauber nest. There is a DIY here as to how to clean the older style but not that one. You should be able to just plug that line that feeds it and go on, BUT you won't have the retarder that will work.
That has nothing to do with the ride height or HWH system.
When I get back from a school function I will look up the DIY on how to clean on of those and post a link. (unless some one else beats me to it, Chuck) With that info you may be able to figure out how to clean that one.
Mike
Air control for retarder.
Y'all are awesome...hopefully not a show stopper for purchase...not sure how much one cost or where to get one
And would that allow all air to deplete from air systems
Threads about the retarder solenoid valve - hopefully some helpful info therein:
Replacing transmission retarder valve (https://wiki.foreforums.com/doku.php?id=technical:transmission:retardervalve)
Replacing transmission retarder valve (split from What did you do to your coach) (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=17318.0)
Big Air Leak Hydraulic Accumulator (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=15185)
The one I was going to link is the one that I did with pics.
Got to run
Mike
Quick Google search for replacement solenoid valve only turned up two possible hits. Part numbers I searched:
Allison 29522717 (original valve part number mentioned in the links in my post above)
Allison Genuine Parts Retarder Accumulator Solenoid Valve p/n 29522717 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Allison-Genuine-Parts-Retarder-Accumulator-Solenoid-Valve-p-n-29522717-/293017769563?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0)
Allison 29547934 (supersedes part number above)
Allison 29552377 (supersedes part number above)
Found this listing, but 29557354 should be verified by Allison dealer as a good replacement part number:
FinditParts.com (https://www.finditparts.com/search?s=29552377)
FOT has them. About $500.
Rich
Here is the post that I was looking for that shows how to clean up the inside.
Allison retarder air valve (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=31477.msg277542#msg277542)
Mike
Well I got to the unit and found no air leak and also it was building great pressure and it was holding well. But once I started to pull out leaving with my new MH it would not build air pressure which is weird as it just had wired perfect an hour earlier...so now of course I'm a little frustrated...as if it just quick making air :/ maybe from my little bit of searching the Governor?
Could be the governor. Tighten=n it down then release it and you might be able to get home but a d2 at set at either 95 or 105 is what you want and they are pretty inexpensive. I carried one as a precaution when my unit got older.
Hmm now to find the part number for this governor or are they all pretty standard
Yes,
They do have different factory set points (which causes different part numbers) but most are a standard. Any truck shop will have a box full under the parts counter. About $20 and you are out the door.
Mike
Here's some info on the D2 so you will know what you are looking for (in the engine compartment, and at the parts counter):
Haldex D2 Governor Service Data (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/haldex_d2_governor_service_data.html)
Flat,
I'm on the road so it took a little time to find this, look on page 13 for all the D2 governor info you need as far as pressure and part numbers.
https://www.bendix.com/media/documents/products_1/compressorsgovernors_1/quickrefguide.pdf
Mike
Thanks I grabbed one from Napa and on my way to swap it out I just hope that's the issue
Before you swap it out, you might want to take a look at the bottom of the air dryer and see if the air is coming out of the purge valve. Since it was building air a short time ago after you first noticed a big leak previously, the purge valve may be hanging open. If so, a tap on the bottom of the air dryer next to it might free it up.
Don
While you have the D2 off, shoot some WD 40 into the compressor feed line to keep the unloader valve lubed. "Thanks Craneman."
Ok so I swapped governor before I saw the rest of the comments and I did in fact find the air pouring out from center bottom hole in what I believe is the dryer...now to find one so I can drive this thing back across the state. I already tapped on it no luck. Y'all are great by the way!! Thanks
Best answer is a FACTORY (as in the factory that made it) reman air dryer. That will have all new valves, heater as well as filters.
Don't turn in the old one for core charge until the new one is installed. You will likely need to move some fittings from old to new.
I am trying to find the part number etc for the air dryer looking through beam alarm currently. Want to find one locally
Should be a label on the dryer as to manufacturer and series. And, in many cases, newer generation dryers from the same manufacturer have the same connection points.
Find out what is in there and call that manufacturer for their advice on interchangeability. I know I did this with the Bendix dryer on our 1993 (went to a newer/easier to service model) that installed exactly the same as the original.
Small chance that you can unscrew the dump valve and clean it out. It simply goos up.
Best (most likely to have one in stock) source for factory reman dryer (whatever the model) is local NAPA store. If not in stock they can usually get it the next day on a rush order.
If you find a rebuilt, make sure you remove any of the fittings from your old one as the rebuilt will probably come without any of the fittings installed. Also, read threads about the air dryer bypass kit you should put together and how to use it.
Don
FWIW the fittings are very hard to remove and come out best before the unit is unbolted from the frame.
Well looks like the dryer fixed it!!! Thanks everybody!
Fixed? Replaced?
Inquiring minds want to know.
Replace