I'm in the process of removing the outdated video and audio electronics in our coach. Thus far I have quite a pile which included about a dozen remotes! Now that the old dome has been removed I have a large number of screw holes to address and a rather large hole (~3/4") where the dome cables came through the roof.
What is the best way to fill these?
A previous owner had used some sort of pourable sealer (see pic). Does anyone know what this is?
On small ones, fill to level with a good polysulfide caulk. Then a piece of Eternabond over the area.
Large one: Transfer hole pattern in metal fixture to a piece of aluminum. Drill so you can use the original holes. Paint white. Bed in polysulfide caulk.
Yes, you could spend a lot more time and money on fiberglass repair, but this repair will last decades.
Bret's way is good.
Ours had 3 different sats over the years. Used bondo to fill the smaller holes, then this paint, which is a perfect match.
I used the plate hole cover again, when I installed our new dish.
I did a minor repair in the rear lower body, used this paint, buffed it out. Can't even tell.
Has to be this exact one. There are several variance's of it, they are different.
Chris
Brett... would 3M 4200 be OK to use for bedding the cover for the large hole? I might want to remove the batch if I want to install another satellite dish. I'd use 3M 5200 on the others.
George
See below for my satellite hole sealing solution... LOL. I sealed the holes with West Systems epoxy with added filler first and then installed the UniSolar panels. Brett's suggestion of an aluminum plate drilled to the pattern sounds perfect. You could oversize it slightly and make your own hole pattern which could then serve as a base for the install of a different form factor replacement dish.
Don
Cut a piece of aluminum to patch larger hole and use dicor under it and on the edges to seal. Can be removed later for future use! Brett's way is good as well. Dicor has two different products. One is self level and the other is not. I like the self leveler for projects like that.
George, if you are going to use a 3M adhesive/sealant I would use 3M 4000 UV fast cure. Plenty tough, cures quickly and is more removable than the 5000 and sun resistant. If you are just trying to fill screw holes clean the old hole out, fill the hole with 3M 4000 UV, screw in a stainless steel scew by hand and add a dab on top of the screw so that it meets the squeeze out around the screw head.
When I covered the crank up antenna hole I made a plate to cover the hole as Brett suggests, matching hole patterns, sealing the plate with 3M 4000 UV Fast Cure and the screw holes as spdescribed above.
Aluminum plate may expand and contract enough to waller out the holes. Just my 0.02$ worth.
Extreme recommended Dicor to me.
Amazon.com: dicor self leveling lap sealant (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=dicor+self+leveling+lap+sealant&crid=3QZHWFLMNJZQF&sprefix=Dicor%2Cfashion%2C173&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_5)
With the size plate we are talking about for the antenna fitting, the difference in coefficient of expansion should be a moot point.
And no problem for covering the SAT holes to as that is what I did 6years ago and still fine
JohnH
How do you like those solar panels I really like how flat they are on roof?
I wonder if Roger meant to write "4000 UV" instead of "4200 UV." If my memory is correct he has previously stated that he prefers 4000 UV over 4200, and I havent been able to spot "4200 UV" for sale.
They work well for us. Not as high of a power density per sq. inch as the monocrystallin rigid panels, but they are very shade tolerant having bypass diodes between each cell. They are made using tripple-junction technology (probably used by current makers these days) which means that they convert a wider spectrum of light into energy than conventional amorphous silicon modules. They put out some usable power even on cloudy days. I did considerable research when contemplating my solar project, but not so much since. Therefore, there may well be better options out there these days. The UniSolar panels were very expensive when the company was still in business, but I bought mine when they were out of the picture. No warranty, but that wasn't a concern to me, but it may be to you.
Attached is a pdf brochure which gives a bit of information as well as a spec sheet for the 136W version. Two of the 68W version in series equals one 136W panel, but give more options for mounting since the 136W versions are over 17' long. eBay sellers charge a premium for the shorter 68W versions for that reason. I have four of the 68W versions and two of the 136W versions. I moved the curb side Hadley over next to the street side Hadley to accommodate the two 136W panels side by side which left more clear space around the plumbing vent stack.
Don
3M 06580 Marine Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 4000 UV, White
Amazon.com: 3M 06580 Marine Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 4000 UV, White / 1/10... (https://amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBDJWC/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
It comes in 3oz tubes as well. I usually have a small one with when we travel for small jobs. Big tubes for big jobs.
These work well to seal up and save left overs. You can use tape as well but it needs to be something like clear packaging tape.
I think that regardless of what you use to fill the holes, it is a best practice to make sure the holes are clean and free of old sealant, which may be incompatible with what you choose to use. I do this by drilling the hole slightly larger than the hole left by the removed fastener and then using a sharp countersink to slightly bevel the edges of the hole, making sure that there is no discernible lip. Besides, making the hole slightly larger in the case of small screw holes, it is easier to ensure that the hole is filled completely with the new material. I like the 3M 4000UV, but in a pinch, I have used loctite polyurethane and it has held up well,
Don
Amazon.com: Full Throttle 2 Oz. Jr White Marine Tex Ki - RM305K: Gateway (https://www.amazon.com/Full-Throttle-White-Marine-Tex/dp/B003E1WKPU/ref=sr_1_9?hvadid=78065376190720&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvqmt=e&keywords=marine+tex&qid=1554176973&s=gateway&sr=8-9)
The Marine Tex Travelin' Man linked to is strong stuff. The regular white stuff they use for below the waterline repairs as it can be drilled and sanded.
They also make a grey quick setting stuff that is strong, but not as strong as the white.
I first used it, when recommended by a marine electronics installer, to bond and build up a needed base area for an aluminum auto pilot part that needed to be attached to a fiberglass hull. The bond I felt was stronger than the fiberglass it was bonded to. I drilled and sanded it too.
Home | Marine Tex (http://marinetex.com)
Marine Tex Waterproof Epoxy Gray 2 Oz Amazon.com: Marine Tex Waterproof Epoxy Gray 2 Oz: Sports & Outdoors (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E1SGD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Qn0OCbTWDEJDE)