Having a hard time hot wiring at starter to start engine. Just bypassing solonyd will not start engine, with ing switch in on mode. What to do I am not sure......and it's raining ,!
Please tell us what coach/engine you have.
What else is not working?
Chassis battery voltage?
Sorry for your troubles, but when you provide zero information on your coach year and model, it's hard for us to offer any suggestions.
It's threads like this that make me wonder two hours later:
What happened to the poor guy?
Which solenoid are you bypassing? Will the engine crank but not fire?
Is it in nuetral? I have bumped the shift lever once
Again, we don't know if this is a hydraulic transmission with lever or electronic transmission?
Ok folks. Sorry for the lack of details.. I am a new member who has had a hard time navigating these Forms.... basic ,I have a U320 2005 42 ft. Has M11 Cummins 500 hp. We spend our winters in warmer climates , summer home is Marquette, Mi. We are now on the way home , stranded in N Little Rock, Ar. At Speedco Services. When I shut down last night, ( 3:00am ) I knew it would not start without help as already failed yesterday I Texas, cost me 375 for a " jump start" noon in Marshall. The ignition switch will not activate solenoid, just a click, click. Local mechanic crossed wires, engine fired. Now here at Speedco the Sunday mechanic could replete fix ? Just bypassing Solenoid does not work. Batteries show 13.75 V. Gen set works well...here we set, waiting for Cummins to open tomorrow....hope they can help. Also exhaust pipe broke off at Tutbo,pumping exaught into bedroom, so , I shut off engine so we could get some sleep.......any ideas as to electrical are helpful.......here I sit looking at Cummins sign across street....gate locked.
Look near the exhaust for burnt wires.
OK, now we can start to troubleshoot.
When you said the ignition switch would not activate the solenoid-- are we talking about the IGNITION SOLENOID OR START SOLENOID?
If ignition solenoid not working (or ignition switch or wiring between them) nothing that normally works with the ignition on would work. SO, does the Allison pad illuminate with N? Does the dash HVAC fan work?
Or, is it the starter solenoid that only clicks? If so, what is voltage at the solenoid when this happens?
$375 for a jump start---- WOW. What other diagnostic work was done? Exactly where did he connect to "jump start". And, when he did, did everything work as it should?
I also lost my exhaust near the turbo. Not qualified to troubleshoot the ignition but I will say I melted some of my air lines when I lost the exhaust.
Worth taking a look before you leave.
Yes ,last to first question ...road dispatched mechanic used a 12" no 14 insulated wire with one alligator clip. Told me do not shut down engine, which would be OK , but we still have 1300 miles to go....so I thought Cummins in Little Rock would be best , especially with exhaust pipe failure. I shut on switch in Speedco lot thinking they could hot wire once more...this morning their could not get engine to start by buypassing starter solenoid.......( I still sit where I turned off ing switch.) I could hear faint clicking sound coming from rear of coach., wife verified that. Batt volt at dash 13. 75. Did not check voltage while trying to crank.....AC fan working at dash as well a N lights up on Allison pad.. ( just a note, engine for last year sometimes a slow start...booster switch helps som ) ...have not tried to isolate wiring, between heavy rain, fog and a 78 year old guy who hates nite driving.........it was tough driving from Texarkansas . I was shocked to find Cummins gate closed !
Have the chassis batteries load tested. They should be fully charged after the long drive.
And, do not hesitate to use the boost switch to start if chassis batteries weak. And, starting the generator to allow the inverter/charger to put 14+ VDC to both banks (boost switch on) even better/higher voltage.
Even if the engine can be started, need to get the broken exhaust pipe looked at before hitting the road again. As noted above, super hot exhaust leak can be very destructive, especially on a big engine like yours. Don't want to add a engine compartment fire to your list of woes.
It sounds more like your starter needs servicing or replacement. Hammering on it while jumping the coil in the start solenoid only works so many times.
Your comment "( just a note, engine for last year sometimes a slow start...booster switch helps some )" indicated low or defective batteries, bad connections or sad to stay bad starter.
Do you know how to check battery connections with a volt meter? Draw current thorough the line under test and probe each junction with a volt meter. The more voltage, the worse the connection.
Also in addition to the alternator look at your ground wire to the chassis. I added a second wire directly to the starter bypassing the splitter and reinstalled my ground as well. They used a star washer and your ground connection could be weak.
starter engage circuit from wiring diagram
start battery cable connections
1 Start battery positive post
2 starter solenoid terminal
3 boost solenoid terminal
4 isolator terminal
5 90 amp circuit breaker terminal (behind white bay wall panel)
30 amp Allison circuit breaker (behind white bay wall panel)
6 input B69
7 output C6 red
10 amp Allison circuit breaker #1 (right-dash panel)
8 input ATEC-ECM C6 red
9 output ATEC-ECM 136 white
Allison transmission ECM (behind lower left driver seat side kick panel
10 inputs B2-136A & B11-136C - unswitched battery +
11 output A23-123 PU Violet - neutral-start output when trans in neutral (closes relay #1 coil)
ignition switch
12 input 91 white from 15 amp circuit breaker #28 (located on front dash breaker panel start batt buss)
13 output 122 white start position to neutral safety relay common
neutral safety bosch relay R1 (right side of front dash CB panel)
14 relay 86 coil from step#11 (trans neutral closes relay) 123 purple
15 relay 85 coil (battery negative connected to other coil terminal)
16 relay 30 common is from ignition switch start position 122 white step#13 (or from remote start button E23)
17 relay 87 N/O is E9 white to aux start solenoid coil (powered from ignition switch start)
(aux start sol below closes when when trans in neutral & ign key in start position)
(and aux start solenoid coil is powered from ignition key start position)
auxilary start solenoid (located on inverter panel)
18 coil small wire from step#17 (battery positive closes relay)
19 input large side post from start battery positive step#4 B26 red
20 output large side post to starter solenoid coil B25 red