My brother in law is in the middle of repairing my bottom step. After getting under the sheet metal flashing we found a rectangular hole under the flashing. All that was under the flashing was rotted insulation. He reached in and removed the insulation and we saw sunlight. The hole is under the wet step but over the "flip down step" box. The photos were taken from the passenger side wheel well looking forward. The bright sunlight is from inside the wet step.
Lousy photos are attached.
We just removed the remaining insulation and saw sunlight again. This shot was taken from the door. The opening is forward of the door and behind the headlights. It's just open to the elements!
Edit
Now that we have it open I can see that under the aluminum flashing is just insulation that is exposed to the elements. I'm hoping that someone who has done this can advise
Ed,
Here is a link to a topic I posted when I rebuilt our entry step as well as a picture with the rotten plywood removed and the rotted insulation exposed below. In the topic linked, I posted what I did to address those issues... not that you will need to go to that extent, but it be be useful information.
Don
Step Repair or Renovation (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=19971.msg143342#msg143342)
I was hoping it would be you, Don. Can you advise what you did to waterproof the bottom of the step, I did not expect under there to be exposed.
I just reread your post Don.
The real Achilles' heel of the construction of the 1st step in our coach is the insulation underneath the bottom step. Isn't sealed on the sides in front of the wheel or behind the headlight and the insulation itself is fairly porous and holds on to water. When I scraped the gooey insulation out, it was soaking wet.
Did you post any additional threads on this?
Thanks
Ed
Ed,
I removed the step box (plugged the air lines feeding it, frame already blocked up to work safely underneath) and wrapped the bottom, back, and sides with sheet aluminum. I replaced that "sponge" insulation with polyurethane foam board. I wrapped all corners and joints with either foil tape (The HVAC stuff) and or Dynamat. Here is a picture from underneath and with the air step box removed.
Don
Edit: to add info
When I wrapped the compartment with the sheet aluminum (fairly thin, probably .032" or thereabouts available at Lowes or Home Depot), I used a tool for bending the sheet metal used by HVAC techs that has two sides on it. One side allows for a ⅜" lip and the other side for a 1" lip. I think I got this tool at a Lowes. I also used rivets which are under the tape and caulking where appropriate.
http://www.lowes.com/pd/Stanley-Flashing-Bender/50201631
You can see a temporary narrower step in the picture with the step box removed because the first riser was also removed.
I am sure I have posted the occasional response to others topics, but I don't think I started any other threads on this particular subject.
Don
If you go the Dynamat route,check out the products from Noico,they are cheaper and work good.
Slow day on the forum, so I will add a bit to this thread... ;D After rebuilding the bottom of the step well I had the synchronicity of heading over to Xtreme to do the head light and step conversions, as well as some other stuff. After the front fiberglass panels were cut out, I took advantage of the easier access while Rance was making the front panels to fit the new headlight package. I had previously sealed the area under the steps where the insulation was, so with access to the front, I sealed the front and did some wire management in the area normally not very accessible. One other thing, some small nooks and crannies can be insulated and sealed using the expanding polyurethane foam, though one must be careful to allow for the expansion. Boy, reading back through my previous thread, I must have been pretty tired considering all the typo's and miscorrected spellings... to bad I can't go back and clean it up. :-[
Don
We got it done.
I wasn't expecting under the wet step to be nothing but the aluminum flashing and insulation. It surprised me to see it so open. I better understand the previous threads a little better.
Thanks for the help
Ed
Well, my BIL put a screw into the drop down step piston under the step.
Anyone know where to purchase a new one?
Thanks Ed
I have a used pair I removed for the step conversion.
Thanks Craneman
Turned on the engine to build up air. Was going to raise the coach. Lots of hissing from under the step. Saw the screw and knew exactly what had happened.
I can't air up. Tanks get to about 70 psi and stop. Hissing all the time.
Anyone have a fix/bypass? Can the air lines be plugged to the step? Worry about fixing step later.
The cyl. that is leaking would not have pressure if the step was in the up position tape the actuation button closed on the door and it should not leak. Once you raise it the air regulator can be tuned off for the step.
My brother in law drove a screw into the cylinder. It leaks, trust me it leaks.
We are working on a temp fix. Can we union the two air lines together and bypass the cylinder? Don't care right now if step does not work.
They could be hooked together with a union to stop the leak.
Don is the king lol, he does beautiful work.
When my step regulator decided to start leaking at a rest stop, I removed the air line, folded it back and used a zip tie to get me back another 500 miles. It was for my interior step well cover, but it should work on that one cylinder as well.
I called James T. at Foretravel Tech Support. He also stated to just zip tie the air lines. I asked about joining the two lines together with a union. He said that would not work.
Anyway, we found a guy to weld the hole in the aluminum cylinder and we are now good to go.
Five bucks vs $330 for the part at FOT.