I've got two post type start batteries which are connected together with 7" cables. Each of these cables has a second post type connector. It's kind of a rink way of doing it. I'd like to get some better connects, make up new cables to join the batteries and connect the coach cables directly like I did on the coach batteries. Here's are photos of the connector on my coach batteries and the start battery mess. I'm looking for this or something similar. Not interested in doing a buss right now. Where can a guy get these? Thanks.
jor
Would something like this help?
Amazon.com: Military Spec Battery Terminal Top Post Kit for Car Boat Marine... (https://www.amazon.com/Military-Spec-Battery-Terminal-Marine/dp/B07F1Q82WR/ref=asc_df_B07F1Q82WR/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=317025832507&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18065846788713442287&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031153&hvtargid=pla-777032180552&psc=1)
Have you tried O'Reilly's or one of the other large parts stores? My coach has three start batteries, and the old connectors were showing their age, so I got new ones from the O'Reilly's store down the street. I just took in the old ones and they were able to order the right replacements. Got them the next day, as I recall.
Texas Starter and Alternator has a selection of battery post connectors. Maybe other starter/alternator shops do too.
By the way, I think with 2 paralleled batteries the positive and negative main cables are not supposed to be connected to the same battery. Connected to the same battery, that battery will get used more than the second battery, also it gets charged a little more. When I bought my coach the main cables were connected to the same battery.
Craneman's connectors are the way to go if possible but may require short cables to be made up to link the batteries. I like to replace the steel hardware with stainless. Not much extra but they don't corrode away.
Pierce
On both battery banks, we have switched to separate military terminals for each post. I think many are familiar with them.
Our idea of separate terminals is not better than the original all-in-one battery cable where several terminals are permanently attached to one cable. To me, the only reason to exchange the single cable with built-in automotive post connectors for separate automotive connectors is:
- All automotive connectors are made of soft lead-like material that over time 'stretches' or 'wears-out' in some way, sometimes cracking. And all these issues reduce the conductivity of the soft connector to the battery tapered post.
- And because they are part of the single long cable, one tends to keep using these worn terminals.
- With our single terminals, when one just looks bad, we can swap it out for a new spare terminal, and better insure good connections on all battery posts.
- So, if the single cable's terminals are in great shape, keep on using it, but when any one of them breaks, the fix becomes more difficult.
- We had 0000 cables made to loosely fit between batteries of a bank, bolted to our military terminals
BTW, John's start battery's bottom terminal (photo below) is exactly what is wrong with all-in-one cables, as the terminal is already crushed and still being used. If that had happened to military terminal, it would be a 5-minute inexpensive repair.
A long bolt through the terminal will connect all cables.
We also connect our motorhome cables to opposite ends of battery banks.
First photo is the ONLY style of terminals that we use:
We carry a few spares so we never have to buy a similar more available style shown in the second photo.
Berry,
The original all-in-one cable is OK and ours is done this way. The two problems with it are, at least in my case, I had in Yellowstone at 17 degrees and 8000 feet. I melted one of the terminals starting the coach. This was without block heater (went out) plus no heated screen on a Detroit. In addition, the all-in-one does not have the optimum current flow to possibly utilize all three start batteries equally. Not sure this makes any difference in real life.
Pierce
OK Barry, where did you get them??
Reply one, is where I got them.
Thanks to all.
Connectors: I'll probably go with the suggested military spec although I still hope to find a heavier duty one like I have on my coach battery. I checked out the Texas joint but their web site doesn't offer much information. My positive terminal has six cables attached (B1, B5, B15, filter heater, Trimetric & alternator sense). The negative has B2, an extra B2 ground and a cutoff switch with a 1/2" thick copper strap. Anyhow, probably end up with the military type with a long bolt as suggested.
Connection Point: That's a great idea. I always connect the coach batts on opposite ends but for some reason I've kept the factory setup for the start batts. I'll fix that this time.
Connect Cables: I'll make up my own 4 ot cables.
My Sorry Looking Terminal: That's what got me thinking about this. I was replacing the original toad connector and was hooking up a 12v test light to the start battery. I grabbed the cable and it slipped right off! Good eye, Barry! I had to file the terminal quite a bit to get it to tighten.
jor
I purchased 2 from Yuma, ARIZONA Napa last November. They had to order in from Los Angeles. About 3 days wait.
Tom, that's what I have now. I think for my purpose the milspec will be better. Thanks.
jor
Amazon
Barry,
What is the difference in the first and second picture. They look very much alike. Can't really tell the difference from the picture.
Jerry
The likely way Pierce's cable terminal melted is was not a good connection and had high resistance.
These work for me.
jk
Battery Terminal Top Post Adapter Post to Stud - Military Ordinance Style | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Terminal-Top-Post-Adapter-Post-to-Stud-Military-Ordinance-Style/142791314089?hash=item213f068aa9:m:mlEh_kqhtCS8wB1vzGfwmrA)
John,
Rather than connecting all those cables to a battery terminal, you might consider using something like this:
BEP Marinco Pro Installer 50V, Single Stud w/ Power Tapping Plate (http://baymarinesupply.com/wiring/wire/bep-marinco-pro-installer-50v-single-stud-w-power-tapping-plate.html)
Similar to what FOT had on ours originally, but with a cover. Not as good as a busbar setup, but easier to implement. Just make up a heavy duty single cable to go from this post in the link (or similar) to the battery connector of your choice, since you plan on making your own connecting cables.
Don
Me, being a bit Rube Goldberg (and anal) needed to keep our batteries in one place because the "bin" under the steps has no way of inhibiting movement.
So I took some 3/4" copper tubing/pipe, mashed it flat and used battery terminal post clamps with the additional threaded stud sticking straight up.
Batteries stay put and with all that copper acting like a solid copper bar I had very good conductivity.
Sorry, no pictures. Coach is in storage and the batteries are in our garage on a shelf hooked to trickle chargers plugged into a timer.
I'm liking this. Might just do it. Lot cleaner. Thanks.
jor
Looks great! Lots of interesting products in the marine world!
Jerry, pic 1 & 2 are similar, and I prefer and use the 1st, and carry spares. To me the 1st is bulkier and feels sturdier. Shared personal opinion and what we use.
BTW, instead of using 0000 cables between military terminals, a bar of metal could also be used to parallel connect batteries bolted to the same military terminals.
John, If you use separate military terminals, you will find they can be orientated 90-degrees from your current terminals, with connecting bolt running coach front to back. This may offer different options for connecting all your cables. You may also consider connecting low amp draw devices to other connectors, as they not likely make a difference for the 'balanced load' thinking.
That's the way I'm going. I've got cable and ends to make up the batt joining cables. I ordered the milspec terminals and nifty stud deal that Don mentioned. Should be good to go in a couple of days. I'll probably do a nice buss one of these days but for now this will be a big improvement.
jor
Joe if I'm not mistaken the house battery in the picture has a nickel coated copper terminal. It carries more amps than lead and don't break down as quickly. The cable can be soldered on with silver solder or they can be crimped.
I have gotten them in the past for tractors at tractor supply --Probably any major farm supply store
Battery Cable Ends Copper Top Post Terminal Connectors Kit w Solder Slug Pellet. E bay
Chris
The mil spec terminal are marked positive and negative as the positive post is slightly bigger diameter than the negative, thus more contact area and "install" at the same height. As they match the specific post diameter instead of a universal compromise diameter terminal.