I went to start my coach last week and the batteries were dead and after trying to turn the engine over twice the dash gauges would not even come on. It has been plugged in so I tried a charger and still nothing.
While changing out the batteries I found that the converter is not working so I am wondering where it might be on my 97 U270??
Thanks
Think you mean the Inverter,it should be in the basement area on the drivers side in back of the house batteries,ours hangs from
the ceiling.
I take it that you think the 12V RV power converter may be faulty because your coach has been plugged in but the batteries are flat? Correct?
Here is a video on how to troubleshoot your converter:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4X4fbVTm5pE
Isn't there a breaker on the bedside that powers the charger? If it is tripped the the batteries won't charge.
Even if your converter (or inverter - whichever you have) was working, it would not keep the engine start batteries charged unless:
1. The boost switch was activated (not a good idea for long term storage)
Or
2. There has been some other device added to your coach to keep the start batteries charged while coach is on shore power.
No John, it is the converter that converts 120V to charge the 12V chassis batteries.
Steve,
No offense, but I believe you may be misinformed. Unless your coach was modified after leaving the factory, you have a OEM Freedom 20 Heart Interface inverter/charger. See the specs for 1997 U270 at beamalarm.com:
1997 Foretravel U270 Specifications (http://beamalarm.com/foretravel-links/models/1997-u270-foretravel_specifications.html)
http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Discontinued-Products/Freedom%20series%201.pdf
I did not see anything labeled for converter
Thanks Chuck. that could be as I did not have the boost switch on. it was my understanding that the boost switch just added the house batteries to the coach batteries? I thought the converter was on all the time while plugged in.
These batteries were bad as these are the ones that I had go flat last year when I left the headlights on and they have been getting slower to start the engine when I took a trip 3 weeks ago.
If the inverter (it's a terminology thing...) is turned ON, then it is indeed active whenever the coach is plugged in to shore power.
Unfortunately, the standard Foretravel wiring configuration only allows the battery charger (built into the inverter) to charge the coach (house) batteries. The chassis (start) batteries are
not normally charged by the inverter/charger when the coach is plugged in to shore power.
The coach owner must make some other provision to keep the start batteries charged when plugged in to shore power. There are several ways to accomplish this. Many threads addressing this subject will be found by searching the Forum archives.
Thanks Chuck, My inverter panel inside says xantrex but that is the same as the Freedom I think. is that charger indicator light for house or chassis batteries?
Xantrex makes the Freedom 20. The battery charger only charges the house (coach) batteries. Unless the BOOST switch is ON.
http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Discontinued-Products/Freedom%20series%201.pdf
Thanks Chuck I will run out there tomorrow and turn the boost switch on and see if the voltage on the batteries will jump up by about 1 volt.
I do know the inverter part works as 3 weeks ago I was boon docking for 4 days and use the MW and coffee pot using that.
Ok, this is where I was going wrong then.
Thanks
With the Xantrex Freedom 20, as long as it "sees" 120 VAC (shore power OR generator), it WILL charge the house battery bank. Inverter does NOT need to be turned on for this to work.
With boost switch on (or auxiliary device) it will also charge the chassis batteries.
If your start batteries are AGM try getting a charger designed for AGM batteries with the desulfating feature and see if you can restore them it may take a couple of weeks .
Inverter makes the 12 volt to 120volt ac,converter goes from 120 volt ac to 12 volt,charger is probably another word for converter
in our case.
Thanks Bret, I was misunderstanding the use of the boost switch, I thought it was more like using jumper cables by tying the 2 battery systems together.
Yes John that is correct. My problem was I misunderstood how it worked with the boost switch.
Steve,
Yes the boost switch does COMBINE the two battery banks.
Works for combining for more amps for starting.
ALSO, works for combining for charging the chassis battery from the inverter/charger that charges the house bank.
When plugged in to shore power, keeping the boost switch engaged is not the best way to handle charging the chassis (start) batteries. It works fine as a short-term solution, but there are much better long-term methods. The standard boost solenoid found on Foretravel coaches requires continuous 12V power to remain closed. Even if the solenoid is rated for "continuous duty", leaving it powered for many days (or weeks, or months) is wasting energy (generating heat).
Other (better) ways of doing it include:
1. A "thief" device like Trik-L-Start.
Ultra TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer (http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html)
2. A simple manual switch. One example:
HD-Series Heavy Duty On-Off Battery Switch - Blue Sea Systems (https://www.bluesea.com/products/3000/HD-Series_Heavy_Duty_On-Off_Battery_Switch)
3. A magnetic latching solenoid (requires zero power to remain in open or closed position). One example:
ML Solenoid - 12V DC - Blue Sea Systems (https://www.bluesea.com/products/7701/ML_Solenoid_-_12V_DC)
4. A smart automatic charging relay (combiner). One example:
SI-ACR Automatic Charging Relay - 12/24V DC 120A - Blue Sea Systems (https://www.bluesea.com/products/7610/SI-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_120A)
5. A dedicated stand alone smart battery charger, plugged into one of the coach 120V AC outlets.
Thanks Chuck this is probably what I will go with. 6 months of the year I take trips every 2 to 3 weeks plus if I am not going anyplace I will warm it is and do about a 20 mile run in it.
Note that the Trik-L-Start works best as a battery maintainer. It is not designed to recharge dead or near-dead start batteries.
Before you connect the Trik-L-Start for the first time, be sure the start batteries are fully charged. After that, no worries! :thumbsup:
Thanks Chuck
That is like the ones I use on my motorcycles.
If the start batteries have run down several times they are likely dead.
All new coaches have a combiner to auto combine the battery banks to prevent engine batteries being damaged from being discharged inadvertently.
Any other way is problematic.
Once run down their capacity is reduced forever.
To avoid charging issues I added a solar bank to run through the combiner to the battery banks.
Most new coaches are set up this way as far as I know.
Solar and combiner. Nearly fool proof unless stored in doors. Then the power supply is the limiting factor.
I failed two battery maintainers and a set of redtops twice. $1,500 worth of parts
Thanks Bob, these batteries were 7 years old. Last year when I left the headlights on and drained them I had to put my big charger on them and did them on 50 amp for about 15 minutes the a hour on 10 amp then several days on 2 amp. This winter they were getting pretty sluggish but still starting on about 10.5 v, that is until last week they were dead and i did the same charge routine and they just would not take a charge so I picked up 2 new redtops.
Each time flooded cells go flat the recycle life is reduced 50%. So 50% then 25% then 12.5%. Dead.
So after I killed two battery sets I installed the combiner FIRST then the solar THEN the new redtop start batteries.
If they are never abused they have a more than 10 year life per the many posts here.
The idea of buying a used unicoach for a fraction of its new price is nice but I want as close as possible to the same use and enjoyment from the coach as the first owners did.
Substituting materials normally means you will not get as "good" of a ownership experience as the first owners did.
Exceptions are a battery temp controlled inverter and a battery management system and a combiner and a full sine wave inverter and a solar system.
Can'r Imagine putting in less quality components than were installed 20 years ago?
Just me. If anyone is financially challenged please excuse my poor taste posts.
My experience is some rv'ers are cheap. Not broke.
Dont start your engine with voltage at 10.5 V, engage the boost switch and wait til the chasis batteries come up to voltage. Starting with low voltage will burn up your starter particularly in cold weather where it can require extra cranking.
Thanks Rick, I will keep that in mind.