Drained the fresh water tank the other day and now want to add water and sanitize it. We have two switches, one under the sink and one out in the utility bay next to water pump switch. Tried both and they light up, but no water is coming in. Can anyone tell me exactly where this valve is located? Any fixes? Tips? Thanks!
The valve is located in the water bay behind the water pump. You might check the check valve on the city water line first. Percussion adjustment could work if it is just stuck.
Thanks Brett; where is the check valve for the city water located? Is it located near the hose reel itself?
You do have the water pump turned off?
Yes, water pump is off. I'm on city water. When I actuate the switch in the bay, I can hear it clicking. I tapped on the solenoid behind the water pump and no results.
Does anyone know where the check valve is located for the city water? I thought the only valve to fill the fresh was behind the water pump, but still learning! Help!
Pushing either the momentary contact fill switch in the wet bay or under the sink (that is where mine are) makes a ground connection to the latching relay (latches or unlatches it). It will clunck either way. When it is latched the fill valve solenoid gets power from the relay and opens. The indicator lights at each switch also light up when the relay is latched and power is on.
Verify that there is power to the solenoid valve. Verify that the indicator lamps are on.
The fill solenoid valve is just behind the water pump on my coach. I think the check valve is near there as well. It should be before the solenoid valve.
This is a good reason to have a direct fill option. Consider adding one. Many of us have.
Thanks Roger; Both switches are lighting and I can feel the solenoid valve getting electric to it. Tapped on the valve several times to no avail. Do you have a blog on the direct fill? Could I install a ball valve between the two connections for the solenoid?
Joe,
I put a ball valve in to replace mine. Simple job with pex connectors that unscrew on both ends of the electric valve.
Mine was located behind the 12v water pump. The rubber bladder on the valve had a small hole in it.
With you having a hose reel your back flow preventer could be in the reel where the line from the coach connects to the reel. Some are hid in the water line behind the fiberglass cover just below where your outside spigot comes through.
Mike
Ugh! Hated to hear that! MOT had that completely open several times and I thought they had filled the fresh tank several times as well. Haven't had a chance to do anymore, since it is storming here. Will pick up a ball cock valve anyway and open the bay up to see that check valve you are mentioning Mike. Thanks for the heads up. Guess I have forgotten all the ins and outs of these rigs since our last one, just a little over 13 years ago.
Once you determine if water is getting past your back flow preventer then the next thing in line is your fill valve. The fill valve could have some trash in the diaphragm area or the orifice. If you have to remove and clean the valve there is a thread with pics. as to what is ahead for you. Check the voltage to the coil even though you think that you feel it working. If the coil proves to be good then it is most likely trash inside the valve.
Mike
If you are getting water in the coach hooked up to city water then the check valve would not be the problem. On some of the solenoid valves there is a star wheel on top that can be turned. Clockwise turns off the water and counterclockwise opens the valve
Joe, power getting to the solenoid because it is warm? Try holding the valve and turn it on and off. Should be a movement sensation. The valve is probably toast. If you are getting city water then I agree, the check valve is not likely the issue.
Here is a stainless steel valve.
1/2" Stainless Steel Electric Solenoid Valve 12V DC Normally Closed:... (https://amazon.com/Stainless-Electric-Solenoid-Normally-Closed/dp/B00APDA6Z6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=1%2F2+inch+stainless+steel+solenoid+valve&qid=1556842808&s=gateway&sr=8-3)
If you use a brass valve be sure it is suitable for drinking water.
Here is a motorized ball valve that only uses power to open and close.
Amazon.com: Motorized Ball Valve- 1/2" Stainless Steel Electrical Ball Valve... (https://amazon.com/Motorized-Stainless-Electrical-U-S-Solid/dp/B06XD3W8QD/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=1%2F2+inch+stainless+steel+solenoid+valve&qid=1556843011&s=gateway&sr=8-10)
I can swivel the motor assembly back in forth. Not sure if there is a star wheel on top, but will look in the morning. Thank you!
Thanks Roger. We are getting lots of water to the coach, just not to the fresh tank. Will delve into this more in the morning if it isn't raining. Got a large system coming in for the next few days. Figures!
Mike, I am going to take if off tomorrow and open the valve up and see what is happening. Hopefully, it is trash and a good clean out will suffice! Thank you!
Direct fill.
Recent third dump valve installations (split from another topic) (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=25056.msg197677#msg197677)
Here are some more science projects
Fill valve auto shut off.
Water Fill Valve Auto Shut-off (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=32334.msg289041#msg289041)
Hot water recirculation
Hot Water Recirculation (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=23736.msg185394#msg185394)
Water pump auto shutoff
Water Pump Timer Automatically Switches Pump Off (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=30564.0)
Thank you to all who chimed in on our issue with electric water valve not working. Opened up the area above the water pump and then could easily get in to remove the solenoid assembly. Once out, took it apart and ran a 1/16 inch drill bit into both of the holes that are visible once you remove the 4 bolts that hold the bladder inside. Once cleaned, reinstalled and valve is now working again. Just another day in learning more and more about this coach! Again, thank you all!