I installed the my hose and power reels a few years ago. As a result I cannot close the bay door when using the power cord.
As an easy solution I was thinking of using a hole saw to cut through the bulkhead so when connected to shore power I can run the cord through the hole so I can close the wet bay door.
As a side note I only connect to shore water when filling the tank, and the sewer hose when I dump the black tank.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
(https://i.postimg.cc/2S13VJH3/2-A45-CDD6-B820-4199-8-B66-F6-AA7-BD13099.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Jeff,
Assume you are referring to the vertical bulkhead between the reel and the wet bay.
If so, no problem, IF DOING IT INBOARD OF THE OUTER VERTICAL BOX BEAM (meaning you would have to feed the cord through the hole-- a pain!). Use a magnet to carefully mark where the box beams are so that you can avoid them.
But, cutting a hole from the exterior face of the vertical bulkhead would remove a structural element. Guess it could be done, but would require welding in a new box beam around the access hole.
Thanks Brett
Our coach came to us with the arrangement shown in photos below. Don't know if it was factory, or a mod by a prior owner.
The weather stripping and piece of aluminum trim on the dividing wall are notched in two places. The notch does not penetrate the frame member in the wall. A suitable sized "broom handle clip" is mounted on a little bracket next to each notch. One notch for power cord, and one for water hose. Hose and cord drop out out the same hole in the floor as the sewer hose. Door shuts just fine over the cord and hose.
Wow, Chuck may have hit on the easy solution-- no cutting involved.
See if you have clearance between the closed door and the vertical beam to do the same!
That's the way mine is.
Here are a couple of pictures of the wet compartment and the way I modified the dividing panel for hose and shoreline.
Good luck, there are many good choices.
John
Unfortunately I tried this and the cord is too thick...bay door will not close, even with the section of rubber removed.
The side bulkhead was notched also in the picture.
The wet bay divider in my 2001 sits back a few inches from the edge.
Figure out how big a hole you can get between the internal structure in the divider. Use a hole saw to cut the hole that will work with a common PVC bushing. Trim the bushing as needed and glue it in to prevent damage to the power cable or hose.
Canplas 192846 PVC DWV Adapter Bushing, 6-Inch, White - - Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/Canplas-192846-Adapter-Bushing-6-Inch/dp/B00QPQBBRO)
But, that would still mean feeding the whole cord through the new hole/bushing. Probably a multi-step process: Spool off reel enough cord to reach the CG pedestal. Pull/feed it through the hole/bushing. Pull it out and connect to CG.
Brett is right but notching the edge of the bulkhead and reinforcing it would be some work. Maybe add a cord hatch in the door itself. Still have to thread it through but it could get pulled out with the door closed
Amazon.com: Halotronics 4 3/4-inch Round RV Electrical Cable Hatch for 30... (https://www.amazon.com/Halotronics-4-inch-Round-Electrical-Cable/dp/B07JW5SB4Q/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_4/134-7296602-5559730?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07JW5SB4Q&pd_rd_r=2321f333-74de-11e9-a9da-2171f603c15c&pd_rd_w=5apCq&pd_rd_wg=4GwHn&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=P403CVT8K2MQCTD7XK2T&refRID=P403CVT8K2MQCTD7XK2T&th=1)
Just not a lot of room here to work with.
Jeff & Sandy,
You may have missed that the metal bracket that holds the rubber gasket is also cutout, something easy to do and needs no reinforcement.
That just might work. I'll have a look tomorrow. Thanks
This was a great excuse to buy an angle grinder and some cutting blades. I'm going to give this a try later this week.
Thanks all, and thanks for the call Don.
Done, but I forgot pictures. I notched the mounding channel with a grinder as suggested and cut the moulding. The door closes!
Now I need to affix a block to attach a clamp for the power cord to sit in.
Thanks all!
Hey guys,
I have one more question about fabricating the block that the clamp will be screwed into. In the pictures posted above metal was used to fabricate the anchor for the clamp and it's screwed into the bulkhead.
That is beyond my capabilities. To keep it simple I can get depth I need by cutting a few inches off of a 2x4. Instead of screwing this into the bulkhead is there an adhesive I can use? It's not really weight bearing. I'd sand it smooth and paint the block first. Is there a downside to this method?
Thanks all. Have a great weekend.
Jeff,
You can use whatever material you want. Were it me, I would buy a short piece of aluminum box beam the right dimension. Pre-drill it and either drill and tap the box beam (a magnet will show that is what is inside of where you need to mount it) or use a self tapping screw to attach it.
That is exactly what Chuck did above (aluminum box beam cut at 45 degree angles. Nice and clean.
(https://i.postimg.cc/cJxLpQBg/IMG-3655.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
It's not pretty but it will work. I do need to file the sharp edges.
Thanks all!
Ya, dress it with a file and then sand paper, drill it and it will be PERFECT.
I have 2 more feet of tube. I may try it again and do a neater job. This will bug me. ;+)
Once cut, place some course sandpaper on a sheet of glass/other smooth surface. Run the cut area over the sandpaper until smooth.
Work from course to fine grit paper for better finish. Aluminum is pretty easy to work.
Agree, one side (left side) looks like it will take a lot of work.
Another option is to use a hack saw and cheap miter box from any box store to define your 45 degree cut.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-12-in-Plastic-Miter-Box-121PMB12/204748777
I used a cutting wheel on a grinder. I should probably use a hacksaw.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZqRm6VVF/IMG-3698.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qN9WTXfz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vZXM1pLZ/IMG-3699.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JsySvY2f)
Done! Thanks all. A friend of mine had a chop saw...much cleaner than a cutting wheel on a grinder.
Excellent!
Nice job. Chances are you will use what you learned on another project.