Sunday we'll park the coach for an extended period. I'll probably take it out once a month for a short spin, say 20-30 miles. See the attached pic. Our Jeep GC is parked in what will be our spot. The storage spot is fairly level, but as you can see from the coach next to it, it does slope down a bit to the right.
So what is the best way to store it? It will be plugged in (50amps) but I really don't want the HWH system working to keep it level. Can I just level it and turn off the HWH system (lower left button)? Or is there a better way?
Thanks in advance,
George
I'm not sure why you would want/need to keep it level while in storage. Is there a particular reason?
Maybe he keeps the refrigerator running if it's not a residential unit.
The only reason to level it is if you want to leave an rv fridge on. But to your point I always leave the level system on when the coach is stored.
Since the "out of level" is side to side, drive the low side up on 2X6's large enough to completely support the footprint of the tires.
That should get you pretty close, then no need to leave leveling system on.
Another reason for level is if it's too excessive of slope it puts stress on the windshield and it can crack. Been there, done that.
If the ground is uneven and the frame is twisted then I can understand a cracked windshield. However, if the ground is merely sloping and not uneven then I don't understand how the winshield could crack
Sitting there for a month, it is probably not going to stay level, or in the position that you left it in. Dump the rear air until both wheels touch the coach then slowly lower the front checking to see which wheel touches first. put something under the other wheel equal to the gap between the tire and coach (more gravel?). You could put planks under all the wheels, but looks like a good layer of gravel and maybe not needed. If you are lucky maybe both front wheels touch at the same time.
Update... We have the coach level side to side but not back to front. See attached. The ground is a bit lower on the passenger side (about 2" of space above the passenger side tires and no space on the driver's side when leveled). I figure I can maintain the side to side leveling with an occasional manual adjustment of the HWH adjustment panel. I thought about getting some spacers for the passenger side tires, but I think I can keep it pretty well leveled with an occasional visit to the coach. It is only about 1.5 miles away and it does not leak down very quickly.
George
I say just turn it off and walk away. It's really doesn't matter if it's not level.
jor
run down to Lowes and get a 8ft 4x4.
Level the coach.
Measure the height between the box beams inside of the airbags where you would normally put safety jacks when your working under the coach.
cut a piece of 4x4 to height.
do this inside of each airbag.
deflate the airbags and turn off the leveler.
Be sure to remove these blocks before you move the coach. If you take it out for your monthly run, make sure you get it back in the same spot or the blocks will no longer be the right height.
I know that the "twisting" the frame is to be avoided, but just how much is acceptable is the question?
George
With the newer 'fridges, it's no big deal anymore. Yes , I have a Camco leveler, but I'm tired of it already. One thing I've noticed.: is if I don't use the jacks and I'm down a little on the roadside, my entry door closes PERFECT, where level, it's terrible! :facepalm:
George,
If the ground is flat, don't worry about level if you are not trying to keep an absorption refrigerator going. The twist only comes from a high or low under a wheel.
I'm still curious: Why is it important for the coach to be level? If it's for the absorption refrigerator ooeration then I understand; if not cdc then I have no idea why it needs to be level. Please enlighten me!
Being a gravel surface (fairly large pieces in places), it is not level side to side or front to back. The out of level is not that much side to side as I described above. I don't care about front to back level. What I am concerned about is out of level side to side which would tend to twist the frame. So that is why I'm keeping the passenger side up about 2" relative to the driver side (as judged by the space between the top tire and the top of the wheel well). But is this enough of a difference to worry about? That is what I don't have a good feel for.
George
P.S. We have a residential frig which is off
There is NO REASON; it's just (A) a old holdover from the early reefers. My fresh Dometic files say, "as long as one feels comfortable in the coach, the 'fridge is fine." (B) Some people have nothing better to do than LEVEL the coach; I had the 'sickness' for thirty years! (bought a CAMCO four way leveler, don't use it anymore). BTW: I'm sitting in a site with no jacks down, AND, my door opens and closes perfect! b^.^d
It is my understanding that our floating windshield gaskets are designed to allow some twisting movement. A side to side slope should not be an issue nor would a front to back. It's still flat, Just not flat to a bubble level.
The twist would be if your right front and or left rear was pretty high. and the left front and or right rear were pretty low. Or some other combo like that. That's a twist.
I feel greedy. My x Dealer mechanic fixed my coaches air system 6 years ago. Never moves after leaving. Turn off the hwh.
George, I park and turn off in Travel and not level. The coach is pretty level as is the site. It loses air from main air tanks over about two weeks but no relationship I think.
Idea....if want level, as many said, estimate how much and where to raise, use board 1.5 inch or horse stall mats 1 inch (Scott idea) to adjust each wheel to close to level and turn it all off if not want to leave it auto level.
Done
Had a conversation with my guru buddy today about my post about never moving from whatever position the coach was at after I turn the key off.
He said he had the same conversation with our local Cummins dealer who normally does not want to work on leaking coaches air system.
His comment today was that from the hwh six pack to the air bag is pretty straightforward.
Unless the six pack itself leaks the rest is sprayable.
If you fix all the leaks and it still moves it's the six pack itself I would think.
Mine has not moved in 6 years parked