Looks interesting
Proteng USA – Automatic fire suppression system (https://proteng.com/)
Automatic fire suppression is common on boats. I've had several engine room extinguishers, but never a fire, thank goodness. Used to be cheaper when Halon was more accepted as an extinguishing gas. Check out Marine fire extinguishers.
Wantabe (central N.C.)
Making the engine the engine, generator and fridge compartment fire resistant has to the the first step. Halon is very effective second wall of defense but as we have seen a few months ago, the automatic suppression device in the fridge compartment failed to put out the fire and the coach was severely damaged.
Take the time and effort to make these areas fire restive first and then go for the secondary option.
Pierce
After looking at the videos it looks like a nice system. The only problem is you can't find a price anywhere on their website. They have a link saying FMCA members can get up to 20% off, but still no price. This makes me believe that it is going to be very pricey.
John M
After a bit of digging I found $400-600 per tube, depending on length. Only an authorized dealer can install it. No DIY.
I contacted them Thursday. They emailed back the same day. From their "chief marketing officer" including her mobile number. I just got back in town so I may reach out for more detail this week.
"The THIA system for the protection of the engine compartment of your diesel pusher is $899. The electrical areas and battery compartments can be somewhat varied in size and configuration. Each device is calculated for an amount of extinguishing agent to cover the volume of the area that is to be protected. They start at $159 for water heater size that protects 2.8 cubic feet."
We watched a presentation with demo at the FMCA rally in Indio last year. The price was a little steep, but not of course when compared to the price of repairing or replacing the coach, as they explained. My problem with the system is that the fire triangle (ignition source, fuel, oxygen) was only briefly interrupted. If the original problem persisted, there would likely be a re-ignition, since no one was present (presumably) to take the appropriate measures, and the contents of the tube had already been expended.
That's the problem with halon. It puts the fire out momentarily but re-ignition will occur almost immediately if there is any air movement like in the engine/generator compartment. Our fridge compartment was bad enough with laun lining on all sides but the engine and generator compartment have a super combustible petro product lining. If any readers view my photo of the insulation on fire, you can imagine how intense the fire can become in a very very short time.
While a fire restive lining like we did in the fridge compartment will keep the fire isolated until the combustible gas/fire is depleted, it will only delay the inevitable in the engine/generator compartment. I can't think of anything with more combustible material in it's construction than RVs with lots of resin and wood everywhere. Boats used for passengers also have to have smoke and heat detectors installed in machinery spaces along with the use of low flame spread (ASTM E84 <100) resins used in the construction. With RVs, no such regulation exists.
With any kind of engine fire, the diesel will keep running even if on fire so you can drive quite a ways with a fire going. This happened to a U300 owner who had turbo work done the day before. The turbo hot side pipe came off and by the time the driver noticed the fire, they just had time to get out of the coach.
So, while some of these fire suppression devices may give you a good feeling, many are just a placebo and may give a false sense of security. The use of 3-6% foam and water is excellent for limited fires and can lower the temperature where re-ignition won't occur. Once the fire is established, only a fire truck may possibly be able to put out the fire. Unfortunately, few of us have 5 gallons of AFFF foam and an eductor on board.
So, get off the stick, watch the YouTube videos on the blowtorch test and line the compartments with backerboard along with heat/smoke detectors in the mechanical spaces. A 10 lb ABC dry chemical extinguisher along with a 2.5 (2A) gallon pressurized water extinguisher are a good start and much better than the tiny dry chem that is OEM. In the case of a toad fire because of a flat or parking brake left on, the pressurized water may lower the temperature of the steel brake rotor or wheel to a point that the dry chemical will be effective in preventing a re-ignition, especially if windy where the dry chemical is quickly blown away.
Check Craigslist for used extinguishers that have been re-certified by an extinguisher company. They may be a real bargain.
Amerex B456 - 10 LB. ABC Fire Extinguisher - UL Rating 4a80BC | Fire... (https://fireextinguisherdepot.com/fire-extinguishers/fire-extinguishers-by-size/10-lb-fire-extinguishers/amerex-b456-abc-fire-extinguisher-10-lb-rechargeable-ul-rating-4a-80b-c.html)
Pierce
retired SBFD
Pierce,
Like boats, since our motorhome is used for two very important passengers, we have combined ionization-photoelectric smoke detectors in many confined places in our motorhome:
Behind TV & 12volt front-breaker panel, under couch & dash, on top of DVRs, under bed in electric space, over diesel tank, on bay wall, in addition to kitchen & bedroom ceiling.
It is no fun when we hear a low batter beeping. But having 'eyes' in these confined places is important for us.
We looked at this at the FMCA rally in Allegan Michigan this month. The gal tried to do a hard sell on the system even though I brought up all the problems mentioned above, the chief being that the engine compartment is open and the gas will be dispersed quickly and re-ignition could occur. I felt she was misrepresenting it's effectiveness. While I have never been a Firefighter I have long experience with equipment and their suppression systems (and have specified fire equipment) and am in complete agreement with Sven and Pierce with this. I don't think this will work on an main engine but may work in an enclosed place.
Keith
It is surprising how many car fires have been put out by dry chemical extinguishers, usually provided by a passing driver. They are useful in smothering a fire and providing a blanket to separate the fuel from oxygen, but the most important thing is eliminating the ignition source when the ignition is turned off. As a young firefighter, I hated to see an extinguished fire.
If you have an engine fire while underway (usually noticed when a car pulls up and the passenger is apoplectic and pointing to your stern), pull over and get out and don't try to fight the fire from inside the coach by lifting the bed. With all the light weight materials and adhesives in a motor home, it is shocking how fast a fire will spread. If you do decide to attack the fire, hit it from the outside and hopefully it will be contained by the engine compartment before the fire crew gets there.
I searched their website for prices with no luck. I finally messaged them and they got back to me. The system is very pricey as suspected. Here is a copy of their response.
John M
"Hello John,
Thank you for your interest in a higher level of fire safety!
The THIA fire protection systems start at $159 for water heater size that protects 2.8 cubic feet and go up to $899 for diesel pusher engine compartment size covering 75 cubic feet. Each device is calculated for an amount of extinguishing agent to cover the volume of the area that is to be protected. The cost to protect your refrigerator compartment is $389.
These are custom installations. If you would like to provide additional details of your RV, (areas that you would like to protect and approximate dimensions) I can give you an estimate.
I look forward to assisting you get FIRE-PROTECTED.
Safest regards,
Nichole
I see at least seven mentions of safety and protection is their short response. The work "protect" in this context gives a feeling of 100% protection against fire. The last "FIRE-PROTECTED" in bold letters is their implied promise to protect you against the ravages of fire. The words, safety, fire, protect with fear the unstated meaning go together well in their letter.
Each fire I have been to is unique in it's own way and to advertise that you are going to be protected is a dangerous assumption. This type of device MAY add a level of protection but with so many factors, it's a gross misstatement the way it is worded.
With "safest regards,"
Pierce