Thought this might be interesting as everyone has his/her own way of cooling down the coach. So, what settings do you set your air conditioners on with regards to fan speed?
It varies according to humidity and temperature. Low speed is better for removing moisture, and high speed reduces temperature faster. No voting choice for that.
We do like Mike - start out on Auto, and then switch to Low once target temp is reached. Fan noise is more constant (and lower) on Low speed.
By the way, for those who might be considering the Atwood heat pumps - they are still working perfect. We have had a string of 100+ days (one recent day was 106), and the coach is staying a comfy 72 degrees inside with both units running. Coach sits out in the open in our driveway - no cover, and no shade until late afternoon. Very happy with Atwood performance. :thumbsup:
Atwood 15,000 BTU Non Ducted AC with Heat Pump (https://www.my12voltstore.com/Atwood_15_000_BTU_Non_Ducted_AC_with_Heat_Pump_p/15021-15026.htm)
Chuck,can you use one remote for both units?
We run the bedroom fan on low at night for air flow and background noise. We switch back to auto in the morning.
In our last coach, a 37' SOB, we would run the front unit on turbo until it got comfortable, and then switch the fan to low....rear unit as required. In the FT, it seems we have to run both on turbo for outside temps above 90. I'm hoping, after I pull, clean, and do whatever else they need, that we'll be able to run the front, only, on low after cool down. ...might be nice to hear meself think...then again... ::)
Regarding Jerrys comment of running on low to remove humidity, that's true, so long as running on low gets the air below the dew point as it passes through the evaporator. I do this with our home A/C (high desert) ...switch the air handler to a lower speed during the monsoon. It does help. ...never tried it in the coach,
Greg
If it isn't cooling start looking for air leaks into the coach. Air leaks especially in humid conditions can drag a ac units too there knees. Physics dictate that any ac coil cannot start to meet normal sensible heat load capacity until the moisture is removed first.
No. Each Atwood unit has its own discrete remote control.
We actually haven't got much use out of the remotes, at least so far. The digital controls on the ceiling panels are so easy to use that the remotes seem kinda superfluous, at least to me. Guess I haven't (yet) gotten so lazy that I can't stand up and walk 5 steps to adjust the A/C.
@ phred
Thanks for the advice. The coach is tight... no unusual air infiltration that I'm aware of. I suspect the condenser coils are filthy and fan seals are shot. The rear evap coil was partially clogged with mildew ... gave that a quick cleaning while en-route home from purchase. Will be getting to the roof items next week, after more pressing issues have been completed.
You will be surprised on how dirty they are... thinking and wondering how they still work with all that gunk up their.. work from the top down and you can get 99% of the gunk.
Thanks David. If they look anything like the roof, filthy will not be much of a surprise. They both need new roof gaskets and blocks, so I'm going to take them to ground level for cleaning/repairs.
Greg
There are three settings:
- Annoying
- Freight train
- Dual freight trains
Seriously though, I would love to replace the twin overhead noisemakers with a mini-split system. In the heat mode, these new mini-split systems can make rated BTUs down to 15 degrees F.
See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ancLHACUqoI
Love your 3 settings Tim! With your dual, we have 3! We have tried several settings and find that setting the air at the temps we wish and running the fan on low works!