First question is what is the joy stick behind my cup holders on the driver side? Also my step cover on the inside of the vehicle will close but will not retract. The switch seems to make contact but Wii not retract. It was working fine about a week ago. I know there have been some threads on this topic but I didn't understand any of it. Maybe someone can explain it to me in simple terms I hope so.
The Joystick is the transmission retarder ... Use it on down hil runs or just to slow down .. kinda like a jake brake..
The step cover has a solenoid activated by air... air pushes the actuator to open and close.. air in one end and it pushes the rod and air in the other end and it retracts the rod.. solenoid is probably dirty.. mine is located behind the step cover and the outside..under the coach. Try cleaning it first.. if no go then replace it..
https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=search;sa=results Solenoid
https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=search;sa=results retarder
Joe,
No such thing as stupid questions here.
Untill you look at mine!
If anyone can say this, I can... there are NO dumb questions! I know I've had some doozies!!
Yep. And just so you know this switch needs to be on as well for the joystick to work. You may have wished, as I did, that it did what the label said and magically took care of those on the road that exhibited this character trait through their various insane traffic maneuvers. Unfortunately, it does not...
Also on the joystick, it has to be zero throttle before it actually engages the retarder when pulled back.
Thanks for the help. It appears the joy stick is engaged because when the button is pushed on the retarded will slow the vehicle down. Since I have owned this coach I have never touched the joystick. As for the step cover I have re-read the previous thread several times and I think I have figured out what to do. I will go on a diet a few days so I can get under the coach.
Make some safety blocks and install before you climb under the coach.. block the wheels so that you have no surprises..
I second that recomendation and add a ratchet strap around both chocks to hold them tight against the wheel. I dropped the previous coach in a Love's parking lot after replacing a broken brake pad.
Now we know why you have had a broken neck, Pelvis & a shattered humorous. You can't just go around doing this (https://duckduckgo.com/?q=weightlifting+snatch+%26+lift&t=ffsb&ia=videos&iax=videos&iai=UBc5N_-xdqo) with your Foretravel. :))
In all fairness I dropped the chassis onto blocks, it didn't fall far, and it didn't hit the ground. That's when I added the ratchet strap in addition to wheel chocks. Plus I have ingrained reflexes so that when something that large begins to move, I let it.
FWIW I'm looking at legitimate jack stands for my new home.
There are two great reasons for using the transmission retarder/joy stick: 1- On long descents it will keep the brakes from overheating and fading and possibly cracking the rotor. 2- It will really extend the service life of your brake pads, which I'm sure will be expensive to replace. If you use the retarder a lot, especially during the hot summer months, you will notice a rise in the transmission temperature, so you should keep an eye on that. With practice, you will become comfortable using it and it can become second nature. Good luck
Joe lives in flat land Florida . I understand not using retarder.
I have a BlueFire setup on my iPad and they just released a retarder temp gauge, I understand vmsPC has that as well. Playing with it in Beta the last few days I noticed the retarder temp and trans temp are not married. Seems that shifting down on the downhills saves some retarder temp. Anyone else see this?
The temperature sensors are in different places is why the difference.
What do you mean by "saves some retarder temp."
I've used the Silverleaf retarder temp indicator on both our '00 and former '03 U295. In both cases, the retarder temp increases much faster than the transmission temp when using the retarder. Remember that the retarder comes on when the throttle is at zero (if the control handle is set other than zero) AND when the brake is applied. The latter occurs even when the hand control for the retarder is set to zero and the amount of retarder applied is dependent on how hard the brake is applied. So if you are going down a steep hill too fast and the retarder is not providing enough braking but is overheating, applying the service brake will further increase the retarder temp. But I have found that effect is short lived and I do not hesitate to use the service brake to slow the coach even if the retarder temp is quite high (~250 degrees). There is no other choice! Once slowed and the transmission is set to a lower gear, the retarder can handle the slowing more effectively without overheating.
If transmission/retarder temperature is increasing and you still need more braking HP, the most important thing is to DOWN ARROW the transmission. Higher engine RPM means more coolant circulation so lower transmission/retarder temperatures.
Brett... I agree, but I always try to keep my RPMs below the max for the ISC350 which is 2200. If one is going too fast, lets say in 5th gear, shifting down to 4th without reducing the speed could overrev the engine... correct?
George
The computer won't let you over rev. it will up shift
Please be careful to not use the retarder on wet pavement or rain. It makes it a little squirrelly on the rear end when applied. Past experience......
Lynn's point brings up another point. With the retarder off (switch off) our braking power is significantly less since there is no retarder assist for the service brakes. Add to this that there is less grip by the tires on wet pavement. Best to leave plenty of room when driving in the rain, but I always wonder if it is a good idea to drive in conditions that preclude the use of the retarder. Sure, the brakes will work, but they certainly won't be what I'm used to. An overreaction? Another dumb question?
Lots of good discussion on the retarder. I am learning a lot. The previous owner left the retarder on all the time. And like many have said is saves brakes and make slowing down and stopping easier. Dub your right Florida is flat and I don't use it much but when I get North of Chatanoga in Teen. Then I am glad I have it in those mountains. Many of you are or where truckers and are very experienced. I am just and old corvette guy that puts it gear and let's it roll. The rv is a bit more complicated. Lots to think about. Glad to have you all teaching me.
I have only had 2 runaways in my years of trucking. They were both in early 70 before jake brakes were standard equipment and we had none. I had heard of Grapevine but had not experienced it. Came into Burbank I think it was , very fast and hot. Next one was on Monteagle the same year. Truckers didn't have cbs to tell out of staters about the obstacles. Not much concern over 30k plus motorhome running away. By the way the second time I came down the passes I did a much better job and still without a jake brake.. I'm tellin ya if you are on board during a run away you will still be mentioning it 50 years later. Was one skared kid and very glad I didn't have to stop at the bottom of either hill. Much smoke and a little red steel thank goodness no flames.
Not to alarm newbies.. your motor home is not going to run away down a steep grade if you have no retarder. A semi grossing 73280 will. Off subject but I get to thinking and remember the smell of brakes and praying there is no red light at the bottom of the pass I had never been on.
Like said above the retarder is valuable in saving brake pads and rotors and that's a good thing.