The model number on the generator data plate is: MODEL PTS IDL8000
SERIAL IRC20DF52818FT
66 AMPS
120 VOLTS
1800 RPM
The vibration dampers on my generator have been sheared off and there is nothing supporting the radiator anymore.
I have purchased the correct two dampers but there are no remnants of anything supporting the radiator.
If memory serves me right, there used to be a piece of rubber 2x8x1/2" ( think) that was stuck to whatever is under the radiator.
I am guessing that it was glued on and the radiator bounced around on it. The rubber is GONE.
This will be the second time I have replaced the dampers in maybe 12 years.
Any ideas where I can get the proper material and cut it to size? I am currently in the northern Michigan woods with minimal suppliers.
Anything else that I should be looking at while repairing this generator unit?
I am going to see if I can find a skinny young smart mechanic to do the repairs.
I seem to be too old to want to deal with it. If things are below my knees, I probably can't get to them.
It would help, if it would quit raining for a few days.
All comments appreciated.
Jon,can send you a picture as to how I fixed mine,redid the whole radiator mount,have you replaced the main generator mounts yet,now would be a good time.
My favorite source is Manhattan Supply company known simply as MSC and accessed on-line through MSCDirect. Some day's you have more luck simply fishing through the pages rather than trusting the index. My last employer's didn't understand I was purchasing the same tools they were buying retail through Tornos USA and Hydromat.
Anyway, you can source rubber bushings by shape and dimension through the MSC catalogue. That should help you cushion your radiator. That and the gennie's parts manual.
Did run into an issue... found radiator bottom isolator bolts not glued to rubber isolator, which probably allowed radiator to move about a little during engine vibrations. The 'failed' isolators did not cause any problems and the broken isolator was only found when we replaced them with new ones purchased from Power Tech. Well a short time later, one day we found the bottom of the radiator had broken its solder joint and leaked coolant.
Determined that the new isolators did not allow the rad to move about and the rad bottom could not take the vibrations, putting more pressure on the soldered end, which may be the weakest part of the radiator.
If we had left the broken isolators in place, we would have been better off.
Our fix was to remove bottom two isolators and support the radiator bottom at its strongest point with new rubber mounts under the tank. That is, after we had the radiator bottom tube soldered at the leak breaks.
Bottom of gen compartment drops off by removing 4 fasteners, allowing complete access to back of generator from bottom.
Sitting with our upper body behind gen, we did find a very small oil leak at the oil pressure sender, that we did not know about.
Relating only to generators with integrated radiator, not for rigs with radiator in side compartment.
Our gen rad bottom broke causing coolant leak. Break occurred after replacing two bottom rubber mounts, which then caused more vibrations to be transferred to bottom of radiator. Previous 'broken' rubber mounts had separated reducing the vibrations.
Our repair was to not use the rubber mounts anymore because they were attached at the weakest points. We fashioned new mounts under the strongest points of the radiator bottom which is the big seam where the fins attach to the side tanks.
Other isolation ideas are noted on the Forum , some completely separate the radiator assembly from the vibrating engine. All are designed to reduce radiator damage triggered from engine movements.
I have same generator in my 1999 U270. View my latest issues to see replacement of voltage regulator. I am also checking out mounts. Think preventive maintains to replace same. Also going to pull radiator for cleaning, replacement or upgrade. pictures new Power Tech back and frt of voltage regulator. yes we did have to dial in via pot the voltage. otherwise plug and play. WARNING; this only apply's to this model!
Model Plate. Radiator shot. note white sign.
If you get a new radiator,I would be interested in the old one,had mine fixed,works fine,you can replace the old mounts one at a time.
Have you found any answers to your issues. Mine it appears is overheating. So as I have no history. I have ordered. Thermostat, water pump, water fuel separator, fuel lines. Plan is to go over cooling system and rehab it. Separate radiator from contact with generator. Do same with generator control box. Install new fuel lines, water fuel separator, new fuel pump. That will leave exhaust system. Injectors. Air system.
Tex,your 3 hours from Huffman radiator in Sinton,they can flush,clean or rod out the old radiator.
Thanks for the info.
QUESTION for all.
Why arent 1 of the many different radiator electric fans used in our applications?
Probably one reason is Iv'e seen more problems with that type then with the engine driven fan.
I think it is a coach model issue. Much prefer the remote radiator. Generator problems cause their not working issues not the radiator itself. No problem with oil spray or insulation getting on fins causing overheating.