My Powertech 10KW is giving me fits- starts and dies in 60 seconds , sometimes less. I thought it was a fuel issue, changed both fuel filters, no joy. I checked my coolant level, added a little and that did not help. I checked to be sure my fan was running and I could see it turning after the engine died when I walked over to the side to check. No fault codes of any kind and I felt the radiator which was warm but didn't stay running long enough to get hot.
I have no idea what to look at now- hope you can help out. In a few weeks we head out and it is in the 90's now, not good running with no air conditioning. Thanks in advance for your help.
10 to 1, it's your fuel feed hose. That was my exact same problem. Do the short fuel line to the electric pump test with a couple gallons of diesel in a container while running at least one AC at the same time. Did you see my generator fuel pressure gauge? Install a temp gauge at the same time. EZ, EZ, EZ.
Heading out for a few hours but I feeding a new hose from the tank is a 15 minute job if your generator is in the outside compartment. Don't use the old fuel line to pull the new one but something line a long and straight brake line. Crow's foot on the fuel tank fitting make it pretty easy. Old fuel line snakes around a couple of other fuel lines so that's the reason not to use it to pull the new one through. Don't need to pull generator out, just leave it in place.
Pierce
I will check it out - thanks Pierce. I had new fuel lines put in 4 years ago, but I realize that doesn't mean anything. Cant do the fuel test here in this campground- they frown on people working on their rigs. This is a disadvantage of being full time, trying to work on coach is not always an option.
How much fuel in your tank? Less than (roughly) 1/4 tank and your genny fuel pickup tube is designed to be sucking air.
Had the same thing happening a couple of years back. Called Powertech and they told be to unhook the temp. Sending unit and see if it would stay running. It did stay running so that indicated a bad sending unit that I ordered from them. Put it in, no problem since. As always this sensor is located on the backside of the engine towards the front part of the head. If you need assistance, Powertech has good customer service. Hope this helps.
Mine developed a bubble and would not circulate coolant - shut down in 60 seconds and faulted overheat -
Smart guys at Power Generation Service in Albuqurque ran tests on unit (including sensor) and figured out issue - drained, refilled, burbed, etc and running fine again - got it fixed a week ago toady on way back to Seattle - wonderful people - owner is "Tad" - found them on powertech web site.
I have over 3/4 tank of fuel, so that is not the issue.
I was checking lines and tried starting it again and got a squealing noise from the air filter area of the generator for a few seconds. Generator started, ran smooth for maybe 30 seconds, then died. My belt is on the opposite side of the generator engine so I have no idea what that squeal could be or if I need to be concerned about it.
Thanks for the thoughts and ideas............... ^.^d
what fault is on control panel when it dies???
should have a red light on your dash and the control panel on the unit itself will have a light lit indicating why it shut down.
Thats the crazy part Tim- no fault lights at all. Not inside nor on the generator.
fuel becomes more suspect - who changed your lines, Bernd?
It's "often" the oil pressure switch failing. You can jumper the oil pressure switch for a couple of minutes run time to verify.
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Yes, but I have put a lot of hours on since they were changed. At this point I am not ruling out anything, just funny how it happened all of a sudden.
If it was fuel lines or pump why does it start, run for a little bit and then die?
Dan- wouldn't I get a fault light from the oil pressure switch? I am getting no fault lights at all.
Check the fuel shut off solenoid. Replaced mine when generator would start and shut down. Easy to check and change out.
Check that all wire connections to controller are snug/tight.
Tom- thanks for the idea. I can see it but how do I test it? Did you order it from Powertech?
On my 1994 Bluebird 10KW Powertech (Kubota engine)I had no fault light, just a inop oil pressure switch. Yours may well be different. My records say I ordered a new one from Power Technology SE.
From memory this is likely the one I bought: Oil Pressure Switch (2 Pole) - Power Tech Mobile Generators (https://www.powertechgenerators.com/products/2-pole-oil-pressure-shutdown-switch)
A jumper across the 2 poles (or connect the 2 wires w/o the pressure switch) will reveal whether or not this is the problem (short run only in case of a real oil problem)
Dan- the Powertech trouble shooting manual says the same thing. I don't know where the oil pressure switch is or how to test it- any help would be greatly appreciated.
would expect that to trigger low oil warning on panel if shutting down due to erroneous low oil pressure indication
suggest call to Powertech support while they are still open....
Looks like this: Oil Pressure Switch (2 Pole) - Power Tech Mobile Generators (https://www.powertechgenerators.com/products/2-pole-oil-pressure-shutdown-switch) A jumper across the 2 poles (or connect the 2 wires w/o the pressure switch) will reveal whether or not this is the problem (short run only in case of a real oil problem)
A bad pressure switch kills power to the shut off solonoid, closing it and ending the gen run. No time for the light to come on as generator shuts off right away (in my opinion).
I just checked my 2003 U320. Oil pressure switch is a single wire switch directly above oil filter. Not sure what yours is.
Much different on my 03 compared to my previous 1994
My O/P switch is on the back side of the motor screwed into the block. Slide the generator out and drop the splash guard, you can slide under and see it. Mine is an Isuzu motor.
My switch is also on the back of my Izusu engine. I replaced my O/P switch while we were in Parker this past winter. Mine was leaking oil but still sent the signal. The splash guard was full of oil when I noticed the leak. What a mess. The switch was easy to replace.
First I want to thank all of you for your ideas and help.
I have found that my blower is working fine, new fuel filters, no fault codes, etc but when I tried it again it ran smooth, easy and stayed on for 5 minutes ish. I was just switching off power so I could put a load on and run it when it died. This was right about the time the thermostat opened up. I think Tim is right in that I have an air bubble in my coolant as I did add some when I changed filters. Keith Risch taught me how to burp the system, which is not hard but time consuming since I have to do it using the side radiator. If I did not have the quiet box on it I could open the thermostat and run water to flush out the air, but I do so I will do it the slow way. Hopefully this will solve the issue.
Sometimes a simple fix will work- we shall see...........................
Procedure for bleeding the coolant system on Powertech Generators (http://www.beamalarm.com/Documents/Generator/procedure-for-bleeding-the-coolant-system-on-powertech-generators.html) (Say's 2002 and up - may or may not apply here)
Update- today I ran generator 90 minutes with load ( both air conditioners in this heat) and all is well. The issue was low coolant which caused an air bubble- I will have to keep a closer eye on that since I see no leaks, but....................................
I also changed my fuel filters so should be good to go.
Thanks again to all you forum members for your ideas and support....................... ^.^d