Good afternoon. My power steering gear box developed quite a leak. It is leaking out of the end opposite of the pitman arm. See red arrow in picture. Unfortunately the stickers on the unit are not legible so I am not sure what box I have to try and get a new seal.
Can someone help identify my box so I can get a new seal. Has anyone changed this seal and have a little advice? Any suggestions on where to get parts?
Prior to this leak I have not had any issues with the power steering system. The coach tracks pretty straight and there is only minimal (if any) play in the steering.
Thank you for your help!
Someone just put a seal kit in recently maybe they can help. I can't find it in the part number collection.
LOTS of previous discussion on the forum. Most recent topic here Uh oh!. Blown seal in steering box (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=37167.0)
Many more that might be helpful using the advanced search (under "Community" -> "Search"
Thanks for the comment but I have read many of the previous threads and most talk about where to go to have a repair.
I am looking for confirmation on the steering box number I actually have in my 02 built in late 01 coach, and potentially a seal kit number. The few threads I read where the individual made the repair themself didn't go into much detail from a lessons learned standpoint.
Apparently there are multiple versions of the M100 gear box.
You have a Shepard M100 PDP1
They are rare and may be unique to Foretravel Straight line in CA rebuilds but has no cores.
Call Dan at Redhead steering gear in auburn WA. He has parts in stock and overhauled units in stock for exchange. I think this info@ email I copied is Dan You might be able to replace one seal and get by, but if you have to take it out or take off pitman, put in the remanufactured unitWHERE ARE YOU CURRENTLY LOCATED/
Here is some more information.
http://www.rhsheppard.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Seal-Kit-Installation-Instructions.pdf
Amazon.com: R. H. Sheppard 5545741 Sector Shaft Kit with Snap Ring/L-Seal:... (https://www.amazon.com/R-H-Sheppard-5545741-Sector/dp/B01JYGIXKY)
Amazon.com: R. H. Sheppard 5545751 Combined Kit with Snap Ring and L-Seal... (https://www.amazon.com/R-H-Sheppard-5545751-Combined/dp/B01JYGIVYM/ref=pd_sim_263_2/135-6012453-8375404?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01JYGIVYM&pd_rd_r=b019b752-9e9d-11e9-bc5a-9b523ecfca90&pd_rd_w=mZ3eT&pd_rd_wg=fWlJ2&pf_rd_p=90485860-83e9-4fd9-b838-b28a9b7fda30&pf_rd_r=Y9JY7811N75Q9FH89PCD&psc=1&refRID=Y9JY7811N75Q9FH89PCD)
Thanks Tim. Very helpful! We have a short trip planned for the 18th then a much further trip the first weekend in August. I might be able to replace just the one seal now and order the whole rebuilt from Redhead for the longer trip.
Thanks for the links craneman. I was reading in the Sheppard manual and I was not sure which kit I needed.
The bottom link has all the seals.
MOT has the weller rebuild in stock Redhead can uPs the parts or rebuild Monday if they aren't open Friday. You would have by 7/11
Tim Fiedler
Gen-Pro.biz
630 240-9139
Thanks for the help guys!
I am going to replace the whole unit with a Redhead. I sent Dan an email and hopefully he has one he can ship out right away.
Do you really need the Tiger Tool $200 pitman arm puller or is there a cheaper one for a hopefully one time use?
Tiger Tool 10385- Sheppard M100 Pitman Arm Puller Amazon.com: Tiger Tool 10385- Sheppard M100 Pitman Arm Puller: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009LSO5W6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_7BNhDbJP79XKR)
If you open the door under the drivers seat and see a hole for the radiator fan, a regular puller works. If you have the electric squirrel cage blower, you need the small puller.
Thanks all for the advice. I am pulling my box out in my driveway this Friday after work and sending to Redhead. Dan is providing me a shipping label at his cost $75 each way from Longview TX.
The rebuild will run $496 and take roughly one day. In preparation for the box pull I have a few questions.
1) With the shallow pitman arm puller using the bolt to pull off the arm will 4" of clearance be enough? See picture. How long is the bolt? I am picking up a long 5/8" hex wrench as well as a 5/8" 1/2" drive impact socket for a ratchet. I want options in case I get stuck. I am trying to avoid messing with the generator and side shield. See picture.
2) Given the size of the hydraulic lines should I use a line wrench or can I just use an open ended wrench?
3) To remove the input shaft do I need to first loosen the bolt indicated in the picture with the red arrow? Will the shaft simply slide upward after the bolt is loosened? I searched for this detail and could not find an answer.
4) I read a couple of post asking for advise in bleeding the gearbox but no one responded. Any advise?