Cruise control was working except that it would drop out for no reason. It would run great for an hour or two and then drop off. Sometimes it was a bump and sometimes going downhill and sometimes just flat and straight. No, the retarder was not on. Now it will not work at all. When I hit Off I can hear a click. When I hit On, no click. When I hit On and then try Set. Nothing. Any quick ideas what to check? Thanks.
Watching for answers.
Mine will do the same thing. Works fine for 1 whole day of driving even if retarder is on until I turn engine off.
Then next time I start and drive it will engage if there is slight pressure on the transmission (like going up a slight or steep grade). But will kick out when I am going down hill or coasting. Sometimes it won't engage at all.
I know you say the retard was not on, but was lever all the way forward or back?
My retarder stays on, I will have to check next time for sure, But usually have it all the way forward and just use the brake. But my cruise will engage with the retarder switch on and naturally it will kick off when I use the brake or retarder lever. If when I start the engine and drive and the cruise works, it will work fine until I turn the engine off. Then sometimes when I start the engine the cruise won't work and it doesn't work until I restart the engine but not all the time. Very fickle and haven't been able to find a common pattern.
My retarder was Off and stick all the way forward.
When mine acted up ( similar, assuming retarder joystick at "0" position) MOT removed my steering wheel and cleaned the contacts- fixed all functions. Mine was weird
Tim Fiedler
Gen-Pro.biz
630 240-9139
I also removed my steering wheel and clean the brass ring or the contact ring, no issues the past three years.
Steve
Is it hard to remove the steering wheel?
Did you check the brake light switch? It may be flaky or need of adjustment.
Or the connections may need cleaning and tightening. I think the switch is near the steering gear box.
Does the fast idle function work?
No. I just tried it and it started to idle up and then dropped. Again, tried but did not get as far. Now it does not even try.
Ok, so 3 more trips and 2,000 miles later. I'm baffled.
First and second trip I tried it and it would set for a mile or two and then drop. Then it would set shorter and shorter until it would not set at all. Silverleaf showed it being On or Off and Set when Set but after a while, it just showed On and would not even pretend it was Set.
Third trip of 800 miles each way. The first leg it would set for a few miles and then back into the same acting up. The second leg coming home it set and stayed for 50 miles despite up and down, bumpy roads, etc. Then it would set for maybe 10 miles and then disengage. Then it would back into it's same acting up until it would not set at all again.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
I also had a sidewall blowout at 70MPH on the right rear inner dually but that is another thread...
I had a similar problem in a Jeep Grand Cherokee and I replaced the brake light switch. The brake light switch is near the upper arm of the brake pedal and shuts off the cruise control when you press the brake. You may need to adjust the position or replace. It is an inexpensive and easy thing to replace on the jeep and is probably the same on the RV.
With all due respect the brake light switch on a '99 U-320 is a pressure switch on of the air lines off the treadle. It is one of those items that either work or is dead. OEM they didn't have an adjustable switch they were factory set.
Mike
As a side note your '02 U-270 is the same way
Take a look and see what caused my coach and a couple other's cruise control to stop working.
And this was the FOT plastic connector that was performing erratically on all our coaches!
This is where they are on a 97. First driver side compartment. Might be somewhere else on the 99 as you likely have that big blower for the generator in that compartment. Should look the same though.
jor
Try unplugging that relay in the picture. Cruise will stay on when the retarder activates
Under the dash, right above or next to the steering column.
Same, did you get it fixed?
Brake switch OK, connector OK. Now the relays... When I depress the brake pedal it wil click. If it clicks again when releasing the brake then the cruise can't engage. If it stays closed or open, then the cruise will work.
Dirty contacts inside of steering wheel caused me similar issues - MOT took apart, cleaned, put back together. Fixed my issues
I am attaching the cruise control box we have, for those who have the older coach and their cruise doesn't work. I posted the bad connector I found awhile back so you will have to look for it under this subject.
Thanks, do you think I can use electronic cleaner. Isn't it too strong for those old plastics?