Hannah and I are really wanting to pull up the carpet and replace it with something else. We're trying to decide between a quality vinyl plank or real wood. I've laid wood floors before and am familiar with it but I have no idea on laying lvt. I'm not sure what to do on vertical surfaces like around the driver's and passenger areas or on the entryway stairs. If we were to go with an lvt product how do you do that? And how do you butt the vertical and horizontal surfaces together without there being an unsightly gap? I'm also not sure on how to lay flooring (vinyl or wood) under the throttle/brake pedals and the toilet. If anyone has experience with laying floor in their coach or a similar situation we'd really appreciate some advice. It sounds dumb but those couple of uncertainties have kept me from tackling this project.
Thanks in advance.
When we wanted to replace the carpeting in our 2002 U320 we considered all options including us doing the install.
We decided on using a commercial Shaw Plank Vinyl in their Coconut color and had it installed in a Herringbone pattern - front to back.
We shared your concerns regarding the vertical surfaces and how to install to limit the joint exposure so the install would be in keeping with the workmanship of the rest of the coach.
I have installed a variety of flooring types in homes over the years and consider my self a good installer. I figured that I could do the job but did not look forward to spending days on my knees making all of the complicated cuts to provide the desired results.
We did contact a number of flooring companies asking for Install Quotes and asking How they would address the joints where the flooring surfaces would meet the vertical curved areas. None of the responses would have provided that Excellent product that we felt our coach deserved.
We opted for Flanigan's group at FOT. Rickey did an excellent job. It was more expensive but the finished product was excellent. I could not find one bad joint or mistake. We provided the flooring material and adhesive after Mr. Flanigan blessed it. As I recall the job was about 4.5 days from the time we dropped the coach off and picked it up when finished.
I believe Ernie, here on this Fofum, does an excellent job. We contacted him but his schedule was full when we were inspired to get this project done. I think Ernie has helped many here.
Others here have done good/great/excellent work on their own flooring projects.
I felt too old, bald and fat to spend 3/5 days on my knees making sure that all of the pieces were cut and placed correctly. Couch, seats and stuff were removed and were replaced after the floor was laid. Lots of staples and other stuff needed to be removed before the new floor could be installed.
We felt that this project was well worth the cost.
Good luck. :D
I just finished our flooring install and yes, it is doable, but you need patience! I had to deal with the slide, which is one problem you don't have! I went with a high grade vinyl flooring that locks together just like laminate. I did not do anything with the vertical surfaces as of yet, but a nice quarter round on floor to vertical wall would handle that job of hiding the small gap. I purchased my flooring at Lowe's and there are photos of the install under Renovations. Not sure how to show that link on here, but this job was just done in June and posted on here!
You can remove the foot throttle off the floor and lay your material and then screw it back down. On the brake pedal, you need to work around it and make intricate cuts to achieve your best results. I'm 74 and was down on my knee's and glad I did this myself. Just depends on how much you are willing to spend on a upgrade. I have less than $700 in the whole job. Wife is happy, that is what counts! I would not hesitate to do another job like this, just think things through before you begin. Hope this helps!
On your '93 it should have a throttle air treadle valve and not a fly by wire system like is mentioned. It will be more like the brake pedal. There are several here that have had success in replacing carpet with something else and have been able to work around both pedals.
We went with bamboo front to back. Moving the furniture around was more of a headache than anything. No matter where you move it you will find it is still in the way.
If you pay attention to details you can make close cuts to be able to butt up the ends to the walls. You will need to invest in a Fein oscillating cutter (or a cheep knockoff) if you go with any engineered wood product for close cutting.
Mike
I would keep carpet in the driver/passenger seat area. Easier to work with and install, good insulation for temperature and noise. Vinyl flooring would show wear rapidly in this area where you don't pull off shoes before jumping behind the wheel. Get a good quality commercial grade carpet. Vinyl plank in living area is great, but do not believe the snap lok holds itself in place touted by flooring stores. Every few strips you need a spot of adhesive to keep the whole floor from shifting, especially where the loose ends of planks abut walls, doors, plumbing fixtures. And keep carpet next to the bed, nothing worse than starting your day by jumping out of bed onto hard flooring.
Thanks for the advice guys! I'm not 100% sure that it's vinyl flooring that we're set on, I'm just kind of using the term as a catch all for stuff that isn't wood. Our captain and co-captain chairs sit up about a foot or so from the rest of the floor as does the toilet and that vertical surface is what I'm not sure of. I guess the flooring would would have to be glued in those areas and a bull nose used at the top edge? We got to stop in and talk to the guys at Foretravel and see a coach floor in progress. Those guys do an excellent job but we can't swing the 6 grand they are getting so we will definitely be doing the job ourselves. I have also seen and heard about Ernie's work on here and the wanderlodge forum but we can't do that either. It would be awesome if we could but it's not feasible for us.
Did you guys have carpeted entry stairs as well? I like the idea of a click together plank but the stairs have me concerned. Our coach has vents in the entryway stairs for the AC to recirculate the air and I'm not sure if we would glue the planks there or what we would do. We really need to do some more research on certain products but I knew this would be a good place to start.
And we do have an air throttle so I am glad to hear we can go underneath and not around it.
Thanks again, guys!
We like having the carpet and ours is in good shape but we cook a lot and we have a 105lb bloodhound that is a messy, stinky boy. The carpet absorbs lots of sound which is great but it also absorbs lots of odors. We have carpet floor to ceiling and we feel like it smells even though we keep it clean. A hard surface floor is a better option for us than the carpet. If we didn't have the dog the carpet would stay. We may be good with keeping the carpet in the driver's area but the rest has to go.
We are worried about the scratching and separating of the vinyl flooring like you mentioned, that is another reason we've been hesitant to replace the flooring.
We pulled the carpet out of the bathroom and put in a one piece solid sheet of vinyl /linoleum. Make sure you make a pattern of the floor and toilet area or save the carpet to use. Ours has crazy angles. We just cut pieces for the elevation sides. Silicone to seal edge by shower and metal step and flat trim finished the elevation and transition to hall carpet. So much nicer to clean.
Haven't decided on the rest yet.
If you use engineered wood, you can adhere it with urethane adhesive and its rock solid. Plus to make it look really professional, that material comes with the correct stair nose trim instead of cheap looking metal trim
You misunderstood Pam & Mike's comment about your throttle. The air throttle has a large valve body that sticks
through the floor. Exactly like the brake pedal. You cannot go underneath it with the flooring material...you must trim
around both pedal assemblies.
For this reason, and for the sake of simplicity when working with the various odd area shapes and angles, I second flyingfin's recommendation to use carpet under and in front of the driver and passenger seats. You can use the hard surface stuff everywhere else if you want, although we also prefer carpet in the bedroom. So does our little dog, who only occasionally gets stinky. Link below to our floor re-do, using Armstrong vinyl tile laid with flexible grout. Has held up very well & requires very low upkeep.
What did you do to your coach today IV (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=23683.msg199408#msg199408)
As to the stairwell, you can use either the hard flooring material trimmed to fit and glued in place, or use carpet. Link below shows our stairwell, which we did in two steps due to logistics. We have been very happy with the Roppe rubber stair treads and bull nose trim.
What did you do to your coach today IV (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=23683.msg207549#msg207549)
Your biggest concern would be if the dog scratches the flooring, so do your homework on that. All click lock flooring will work, but you need to check with manufacture on if it can be glued down. The vinyl plank we purchase was approved for that, but actually have never seen a problem with the floor moving with click lock and I have done well over fifty thousand square feet of the stuff in the remodels I have done. I looked at doing a porcelain tile in the entrance, but very hard to find bullnose for a finish. Metal will work, but wanted to keep it all tile, so opted with the rubber flooring at entrance as well. We do have a small throw rug to wipe our feet on as we come to the top of the steps. Just take your time and think your steps through. Every coach is a little different, so if you wish to see one in progress, it would need to be one just like yours.
Thanks for all of the excellent information! Hannah and I have been talking and have decided to leave the driver and passenger areas carpeted for the time being. The dog doesn't get on it and I drive in socks so it's comfy as well. We both really like a product called Cali bamboo fossilized in the natural color and may go with it. We will probably do a glue/nail down installation if we go with that. I think it would be cool to do tile I the bathroom but we'll see on that. We've also found a couple people selling their extra flooring on CL for a decent price and that might be an option.
Having carpet in the bedroom would be nice but that's too complicated for us. Haha. I think we can do a good job on the install but it needs to be as straightforward as possible.
Research on cork flooring, especially the glue down solid cork tiles. It is self-healing and may work out better for your dog than a different surface that would show the scratches. Unless your dog is a digger....
If you have any interest in traveling to Mexico, there is a guy in Puerto Penasco, MX that works very cheaply.
I am working on upgrading flooring/dash/door
You guys do some good work or have some good work done, I've seen nothing but excellent looking floors. Hopefully ours will turn out equally as nice. Apparently Lowe's will no longer be carrying Cali Bamboo products, but we did fine a LVT product there that we both really like and might go with. It is a click together type of flooring but it seemed to be pretty high quality.
We went to several different places today and didn't see any cork flooring but would be interested in checking it out if we could see it in person.
I don't think we'll be in Mexico any time soon but that was a good suggestion. Honestly though it's a bit disappointing that I would have to drive to another country to find quality work done at a reasonable price. Hahaha.
What would be a reasonable price to spend 3 to 5 days on your knees producing a good/better/best product?
Good/better/best are all relative standards based on personal opinion. And It's all a matter of opinion. I don't mind paying an honest wage for quality work but what I consider an "honest wage" might be different than what someone else might consider it to be. If you're a contractor or paying one to do a job and both parties are happy at the end it doesn't really matter what it cost I guess.
That's why I'm booked till mid 2020
That's awesome, Erniee. I've seen pictures of your work and heard a lot of good things about it.
If removing carpet and going to a wood or some sort of synthetic flooring what does that do to the noise level when traveling? :-\
We went from OEM carpet to vinyl tile. Can't say I noticed any difference in road noise...but my hearing ain't what it used to be.
usually folks add some runners
we have those in our coach so the girls have traction
or crank up the volume~
Steve,
When we went with bamboo flooring there is a slight increase in road noise. We didn't do a before and after db test to verify exact numbers. When we run the generator there seems to be no difference. This could be attributed to the new generator sound insulation. The biggest noise increase that was noted is the ride height valve exhausting as it makes adjustments while moving. We installed an in house built exhaust muffler that quieted down this noise so it isn't noticeable now.
Mike
We replaced our flooring and installed a floating floor. By choosing this method I had to leave a 1/4 gap around the perimeter and install a base trim. I was able to carry the floor from front to back and in the toilet area. I also carried the floor around the pedals in the drivers area and trimmed it out with a trim plate painted black. The steps were trimmed out in a rubber base molding and contact adhesive. Going on three years now and the floor is holding up well. If you choose an engineered wood floor like Ernie suggest you can run the floor right up to the edge of the wall. In my installation if someone wanted to remove and change the floor it can easily be removed.
John M.
Thank you John, your work and photos inspire me. We have chosen the following click togeather which sells from $4 to 4.50 sq ft. We like the contrast to our walnut interior. Should be done by October, and I will post some pics. I hope mine has the quality look of yours.
What did you do up front with the rubber under the carpet that came from the FT factory originally? Do you think it will compress or do I have to remove? With the cork backing to the COREtec Plus 7" I believe I have found what will work for us. I have not chosen a company to buy it from yet. Two local stores carry the product. I ordered a sample from US Floors.
COREtec Plus 7" Plank Ivory Coast Oak 50LVP705 WPC Vinyl Flooring (https://www.bestlaminate.com/coretec-plus-7-plank-ivory-coast-oak-50lvp705-wpc-vinyl-flooring/?utm_term=&utm_campaign=*KB+-+Shopping+-+Custom+Label+-+High&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&hsa_tgt=pla-728619295884&hsa_grp=63060653888&hsa_src=g&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_mt=&hsa_ver=3&hsa_ad=284749691439&hsa_acc=1703848946&hsa_kw=&hsa_cam=1488111773&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhdTqBRDNARIsABsOl98M_6bSY0IU64NUTJaqakmVix2nfApCfc0GGxVfwOIi8ik3F9jVDiAaApRcEALw_wcB)
Ivory Coast Oak | USFloors (http://www.usfloorsllc.com/flooring-products/ivory-coast-oak/)
I removed the rubber sound proof mat and laid the flooring along with a sound deading mat throughout the coach. You have the same rubber material under the bedroom carpet. We bought some carpet from our local carpet store that matched the decor and had them cut and bind the edges so we can have carpet runners on the side of the bed and they also made us a carpet mat for the shower and sink area in the bathroom. We just made some templates of what we wanted and they made them. We also removed the flooring that was in front of the kitchen area. Attached is the flooring we used. Yours should come out great also. Just take your time. Measure twice and cut once.
John M
For the people who have done the driver's area, what did you do around the steering column?
We unscrewed the screws that are through the flange that holds the rubber boot secure to the floor. With this pulled up all you have to do is work around the steering shaft hole that is presently there hid under the boot.
Mike
Awesome, thank you. I'm thinking about just doing it all while we're at. Just trying to get a plan of attack before we get started.
There are several of us who have posted photos of the work we did. Just do a search! Many different floor products and ways to do it.
Here's a photo around the steering column. We have almost finished our project. We used luxury vinyl tile and glued it down. It's a lot of work, but we're really happy with the end result.
Nice job ED!!! Only it looks as if you have to stand to drive! OK, OK bad joke. :-X :-X :-X :-X We need to do that in the galley area where the parquet is a little tired and collects dirt. Have to have carpet otherwise with the dogs as they would slip and dig their claws in. Brand name for yours?
Pierce
Why does luxury vinyl tile look like wood?
Pierce, it's Mannington Adura. Foretravel recommended this product. Ours has a little bit of texture to it, but we're anxious to see how slippery it is when our feet are wet. There was so much more room when the seats were out. We were trying to figure out how to drive without them!
Craneman, we were looking for something that didn't look like wood, but just couldn't find one we really liked. This one lightened up the space but still had a little beige tone to coordinate with the countertops, dash and chairs.
Deb
Evan,
Hopefully, you can get a better look coming into coach. I will post more later.
Ain't that the truth! They don't seem that large, but when they're out, its amazing the space they free up. Floor looks great, thanks for sharing!
Did you guys do the glue down type? The stuff we're looking at is the floating type and it calls for quarter round along the perimeter. I don't really like the idea of the quarter round around everything. There's some places that the quarter round might not really fit and might not really look right. I asked the lady at home depot if we could do a color matched silicone around the edge which I think would look better in our case, but she said that it probably wouldn't work.
I did color matched silicone when I did the cork flooring in my Newell and it looked and worked great. I used blue tape to mask the flooring and wall.
Vinyl cove molding is another option, which I did use at the shower. Just glue it to the wall leaving it touching the flooring. It comes in different heights and many colors.
Wall Base Molding | Rubber Baseboard Trim | Vinyl Cove Moulding (https://www.floorcity.com/collections/wall-base-molding)
I like to drive without shoes. so I put a soft mat in screwed to the floor. All the pieces by the pedals can be removed for easy access.
This picture did not go through on last post. The lighted grab handle has been upgraded too! See other picture above.
Hannah and Tyler, we did use the glue down flooring. We used silicone along the shower. Will probably add some quarter round in spots but haven't done that yet
Deb
I used the old black metal trim piece that was around the steering column as template to get the general size and shape of the hole for the rubber boot surround and made a new trim piece out of ¼" Starboard. Starboard is a plastic polyethylene material used on boats and comes in various thicknesses. Since I used a floating floor, I made the trim piece large enough to overlap the opening in the vinyl tile that surrounds the steering column. The screws around the perimeter of the trim piece I made go into the subfloor. I made some shims to keep the the trim piece from clamping down on the flooring so that the vinyl tile is still floating. In other words, the screws hold down the trim do not go through the flooring. The Starboard trim piece is cut at the front with a razor sheer so that there is no gap. The Starboard material is flexible enough so that I just flexed it by hand to place it around the steering column. I made a little stainless trim piece that the screw goes through so that the screw the slit doesn't tend to spread the Starboard. Hard to explain with words, but a pictures may help. Bottom line is that there are no one size fits all solutions when doing these sorts of projects on a coach. There are always going to be opportunities for creative problem solving. I also replaced the carpeting that was around the foot foot well with the same ¼" thick Starboard...
Don
Wow.... Don, very impressive driver console area. Not exactly as I would want but VERY close.
Particularly the wood work between switches and what looks like a vertical wire chase to the overhead area. Who built that, if you... even more impressed. Very nice. I want one now and it's even the right color. Heck I could even use yours. Oak right??
Dang, you guys do good work! I keep staring at our driver and passenger area and am just not feeling confident in my abilities to make it look good. If we were doing wood floors and we still had our home with all of the tools I used to have maybe I'd be more confident, but being at a campground, living in the coach fulltime, and not having access to the tools we might just ditch the idea of doing that area. If the areas were at the same level as the rest of the floor I'd also be more willing to give it a go but being elevated and having drawers, it poses too many unknowns for my liking. Thanks for sharing all the photos, we really enjoy seeing the work that you guys do and it has helped immensely. I'll post a picture of what we're looking with lines representing a few of the areas of concern haha.
The cable chase is Foretravel OEM, oak in our case, but Walnut or whatever the wood in the rest of the coach is. These cable chases are in all of the Unicoaches that I have seen. The console below the cable chase was just a carpet covered box. I turned into a little storage compartment because it was mostly empty space with wires running through the bottom of it. One of those "while I was at it" deals that make me so slow at finishing a project.
Don
Understand your concerns when looking at that photo. Lot's of angles, etc. Carpet hides a lot of sins, but upgrading to the vinyl flooring is doable. I would not worry about quarter round, etc. Lay the flooring tight and if need be, there is color caulk that will match up great. You could do a floating or a glue down, but on those sides, I would do the glue. When I installed our new flooring, I used an undercut saw, chop saw, tape, hammer, flat bar and knee pads! Not really an issue and you don't have a slide to deal with. Personally, I would glue it all down, but that is up to you.
Don. On one hand I say you should be a consultant for the Foretravel design department. But, on the other hand that would probably ad several k to a coach I already can't afford.
Did you guys do a 1/4" plywood underlayment before installing the Adura? We've found a place here that has it in stock and I really like the idea of the glue down vs. the floating. I thought this whole time that we had to use some kind of leveling compound and then sand it smooth before we could do a glue down type flooring. The ladies at the flooring place corrected me and explained to us that a 1/4" plywood underlayment was the way to do it. Knowing that completely changes everything for me, I can easily cut plywood to fit and staple it down. I didn't want any part of putty and sanding though hahaha! It definitely helps to ask the right questions.
I used the Adura lux vinyl tile. It's 4 mil thick so buy lots of razor blades. Most cuts were with metal 24 inch square, a few jig saw cuts. I went a slightly different route than most. Removed all carpet except bedroom and around pedals and tiled up to the pedal area. All glue down with manufacture recommended adhesive. Glued just fine to sides of toilet stand. Wow, that was a nasty mess that is good to get rid of. As to the wire chase on the curb side, I trimmed it in oak and laid tile on horizontal surface. I did not remove wood flooring in kitchen, refinished it and squared the corner. Only filled a few bolt holes and tiled around the captain chairs after trimming carpet away to the base. Only I know the chairs weren't removed. Saved some heavy lifting. Removed couch and had it recovered by local upholstery shop while doing floor. I bought a pair of articulating knee pads off Amazon. Best decision ever as they don't creep around as you get up and down. Left carpet on sides of stairs, but redid step cover with oak trim around the steps. Went to Lowes and found some 1x1 corner molding that I used around step. We used a marble/tile look and we love it. Been camping in National Forest with daily rain. Doesn't show dirt, sweeps up quickly. Don't over apply glue or it will seep up between tiles. You can see my post with photos from this spring. One of the best changes we have made for our messy, off grid, National Forest type camping. Did not need 1/4 inch underlay because left kitchen floor in place. Used Flexitions transition that is a vinyl that takes stain if done according to directions.
Tyler, we did use 1/4" Integraply as an underlayment throughout the coach before glueing down the floor.
Deb
How did you secure to the existing plywood sub floor in the coach? I suspect it would need to be glued as well to eliminate chance of long term issues?
Another question - with the Adura glue-down tiles, how are the joints sealed between the tiles? Does the glue seal them? Are they caulked? My biggest concern is keeping a water tight floor surface. It never fails, dog bowl over flows, some yahoo full in front of me and coffee get spilled all over the floor, on and on. I like the look of those Adura tiles, but am unsure how well they are sealed between each side.
Thanks,
Evan
small spills with any flooring medium should be of no concern. Just wipe it up.
If you have a flood- no amount of "waterproof" flooring is going to help. Water gets everywhere-under walls, cabinets, etc
Adura tiles and planks (as well as many other man made flooring products) have temperature conditions. Storing our coach here in MN in the barn subjects it to some very cold temps, way below zero. Mannington said those conditions void the warranty and would likely lead to a failure due to shrinkage and contraction even if glued down. Check the fine print carefully.
You are correct about the extreme temperature variations voiding the warranty. I don't know about the Adura but on all the other products we looked at, just installation in a motorhome, RV or travel trailer automatically voids the warranty. That was applicable to real wood, bamboo and synthetic materials. Heck, even exposure to sunlight voids the warranty in a lot of cases haha.
We keep cycling back to cork. Pretty forgiving for install, a bit of give, warmer than vinyl or tile, even wood. What we have still looks good so it is not on the top of the list yet.
Four years ago, we had our Armstrong vinyl tile glued down - installers used grout with a "flexible" additive. It has held up well to the pounding and vibration of going down the road, and the warping of the floor due to frame movement. We haven't lost any grout...so far. Like said above, small liquid spills are no problem. Just wipe them up.
We do not subject our coach interior to extreme low or high temps. It sits outside all year round. Winters here sometimes get below zero, and summer temps in West TX go over 100 for weeks at a time, but we maintain the interior at a "comfortable" temp (50-80 degrees) all year 'round.
Cork would be a cool option for sure, I was just concerned about our dogs nails. From what we read about cork it wasn't a good choice for large dogs. Other than it has a lot of positives
You may have dodged a bullet there. We looked at Cali Bamboo for another project and ran it through some tests. As with many bamboo products, it swelled significantly (and permanently) in a humid environment. I was also able to scratch it fairly easily, which would not work with our 25 lb pups.
We started pulling out furniture today and had a couple of questions about some things that we found. First was what I thought was a cable chase right next to the entry door, but we discovered that it was just a block of wood, wrapped in carpet with 3 screws holding it down and there are no cables anywhere. Second was a metal cap-looking thing under the couch, it is suspended off the floor by three screws and each one of the screws has a spring on it. There's nothing else going to it. It can be pushed down on the screws but is pushed back up by the springs. We were curious if anyone could shed some light on these mysteries haha.
Very mysterious....until you know the answers.
The block of carpet covered wood by the door. Our coach also has one. The best explanation I have been able to come up with: it is to keep the feet of a chair from sliding over the edge and falling into the stair well. Our coach came with two barrel chairs. The feet of one of them rests right up against the "chair stop".
The other metal thingy is the HWH level sensor. It should have a wire coming out the bottom. The wire normally goes to the HWH control box somewhere in your basement. If there is no wire attached to it, then it is doing nothing, and your HWH Auto Level function will be inoperative. Don't be tempted to crack it open and look inside cuz it has mercury in it. See .pdf below for more info.
Thanks, Chuck and Jeannie I guess it wasn't much of a mystery after all haha! I read several things about a cable chase that needed worked around and thought for sure that was what everyone was talking about with the thing behind the chair. The HWH thing makes sense and on a closer inspection there is a wire running too it but was hidden by the carpet.
We glued, screwed and stapled the Integraply to the existing subfloor.
Most of the seams are pretty tight on the floor, some have a small gap. We were told at the store that one could grout the seams if they wanted to.
We also read on the Mannington website that installing in an RV voids all warranties no matter how it is installed.
Deb
We were thinking about gluing the underlayment as well but we're also considering using a sound deadening underlayment with a vapor barrier underneath as well. Either way we'll be using 1" long narrow crown staples to attach it to the subfloor. We just got all of the carpet, pad and staples out and will be going to get the underlayment and flooring this afternoon.
Looks great John!
I was/am thinking of doing the Cali Shoreline cork this winter. Not looking forward to removing the tile floor but its got to be done. The tile is cracked in places and some of the grout is bad, but all in all, after 20 years it don't look to bad. But the cork will be much nicer.
MOT uses the Audra tile glued down. I've had mine down for a year through a winter and summer in North Texas, the coach is not kept conditioned. So far so good. I don't know any manufacturer that provides RV warranty. I think it's buyer beware be careful. But obviously it's used in many RVs, so I think you're going to be happy with it. We have loved getting rid of the carpet in the main living area as we track in way too much junk.
We got the floor finished and I wanted to share a couple pictures. We're both really happy with the way it turned.
A couple more
I haven't taken any pictures in the last couple days but we have gotten all the furniture back in and a bead of color matched caulk around the perimeter. We've also got rubber stair nose ordered for the entryway.
Congratulations on a beautiful upgrade.
Thank you, we really like it. I feel kinda egotistical for saying so, but I'm really proud of the job that we did! :)
That is a great looking floor! Nice job!!
We chose to go with 1/4" luan for underlayment and it comes in 4x8 sheets which made for some tricky cuts. This one I am especially pleased with because it was really tricky but came out perfect on the first shot.
Got some aluminum 90 at Lowes and cut it to fit around the toilet base.
Nice work Tyler and I am sure that Hannah had a big hand in all of this as well. Looks like the color or our flooring, maybe a little lighter! You both can be proud in the fact that you did this and also saved a ton of money! Great job!
Hannah was absolutely an equal half of the team! She laid down planks, measured and cut planks, ran the pneumatic stapler, and did everything I did with the exception of operating the saws. Heck she even helped load and unload the huge table saw that probably weighed twice or more what she does. She is and has been an equal part of every project that we've done.
She is amazing and I'm very proud of her!
The color we we chose is called Napa Dry Cork.
Hannah and Tyler great job !! Looks very good. What product is that and made by who?
It's Mannington Adura Flex
Erniee, in your vast experience with RV floors, what has been your all time favorite appearance wise? (Excluding hard surface tile, marble etc.)
Looks great Hannah and Tyler!
Deb
acacia- engineered wood-
I don't know how to add photos here.
For lots of photos, check out my Facebook page: Ernie Ekbergs' Flooring