After almost 25 years it was time to remove the faded vinyl graphics. Removal is now complete and it's time to buff and polish the fiberglass and then install our new Marine Blue Zip Dee awnings. With the new awning fabrics in the color we like we will eventually decide on the paint color scheme we like, but for now all-white is the appropriate solution.
I haven't yet found the proper place to do the buffing and polishing and (who knows) may decide to do that myself. I'm looking for recommendations as to the best buffer, buffing pad, compound and wax to use. I've read a variety of posts here on the general subject, but I'm also looking for any specific "lessons learned" comments anyone may have.
Looks Great!
I love my Porter Cable buffer. I use products from Chemical Guys for compounding, polish and sealant.
I'm due for a whole body buff and shine. Kinda dreading it.
Looks Great! Put (removable) big red crosses on the sides, and you'll score prime front row parking spots everywhere you go! :thumbsup:
Got mine buffed today...Came out looking great!! ^.^d
Lots of people recommend Meguiar's products.
Here's their cutting compound...
Meguiar's M9132 Boat and RV Pro Grade Power Cut Compound 32 OZ 703821913... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Meguiars-M9132-Boat-and-RV-Pro-Grade-Power-Cut-Compound-32-OZ/113824909328)
How much did they charge?
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There is a guy local to me that buys, remodels, and resells Country Coaches as a side hustle. He has a guy that works for him full time on them. Every single one gets cut and buffed with 3M products. He quoted me $1800 and said he would need the coach for 5 days for cleaning, cutting & buffing. I believe it, as there is a ton of surface area. As far as cutt and buff goes, I think you get what you pay for. If they're doing it in a day, I'd be suspect of the attention to details and the quality of the work.
On a side note, did you remove the stickers yourself? If so, what was your procedure, materials, and equipment for accomplishing the work? I love the look of the all white, it will really pop with new marine blue awnings!!!
I buff but what is "cut"? I will guess wet sand.. It's a lot of work to do one right but $1800.00 seems rich to me.
Free.. Friends with time..
The gel coat on the sides is rock hard and if there is much oxidation, a buffer alone won't do the trick. I used a HF jitterbug (air) with 2500 or 3000 wet or dry with a slight mist to keep the surface a little wet. This produces a fairly glossy finish and then a low RPM body shop buffer with a HD compound followed by a "final finish" compound. The front and rear caps were much softer and took less work but also oxidize faster. It will take lots of hours. I did it myself but I get tired thinking about it.
If the decals have been remove, there will be a raised shinny surface below where they were. Hard to sand that down flat and get the exact same gloss.
And no, it can't be done in a day for a decal free coach. Way too much area.
RV parks in Puerto Peñasco have areas just for this kind of work. Labor is inexpensive and with no shop overhead, the price will be a fraction of those quoted above.
Pierce
DJ.. I use 3m rubbing compound and Meguiar wax products.. Only lesson I have learned is if your polishing wheel's pad attaches with Velcro and if the pad has miles on it get a fresh one.. I won't re tell that story but it wasn't pretty.. I use a wool pad but some use foam.. Can't say I know the plus and minus of the two..You can do it but if so take it one small section at a time.. like eating a elephant.
This is a photo last year of the Gel coat on my 89 280 using 3m compound and meguairs wax.. Not the best angle to reflect its shine but if you expand the photo it's a bit better.
X2 on Dub's procedure, what I did is similar. I used Marine 31 products mainly because I have used them on my boats with success and had some available. I cut and polished using Captain's One Step Compound & Polish, this was accomplished using a Porter Cable with the wool pads. The key is to keep the pads clean or change out frequently, I use a pad washer to clean after each 2'x2' section is polished, my coach was pretty oxidized in some areas and the chalk would build up quickly on the pads. I then finished the gel coat with Carnauba Wax and Sealant using a foam pad applied at a slow speed.
This process took SEVERAL partial days however it is doable and very satisfying.
I did the work myself. I used a product called "Crystal Tek Vinyl Off" (perhaps two quarts). It works best in hot sunshine one a very hot day. Sometimes I had to use my wife's hair dryer to heat the vinyl. At times I needed to use a rubber eraser type wheel ("Wizzy Wheel Vinyl Decal Remover" found on Amazon). Generally a plastic putty knife worked well but at times a fingernail worked better. I then sanded areas with 1000 grit wet sandpaper. I probably have 50 hours or so in it so far.
I have gotten 2 estimates to have my coach's shine brought back... both were $1800.00. One was in the Houston area and one was in nac
I can vouch for that.
Here's a pic I took of Dub's '89 at Southern Comfort RV Park on Beach Blvd. Biloxi, Ms. Love those bumpers!
Jerry
Wet sanding with a buffer will do the trick when the gel coat is badly oxidized and regular compounding won't bring back the desired shine. There is enough gel coat to get down to the unoxidized shiny layer. Doing it by hand is way to much work when you have to use several grades of sandpaper. I know, I tried it!
Jerry
I just had 2-3 guys wet sand with 600-800-1000 grit then buff with a rubbing compound then seal with a buffer. I can't say it is a fabulous job but its much better than it was. Took them 2 1/2 days.
$1500 + $300 tip at my home.
I tried 800 at first but the gel coat on the side of the coach was so hard, it took a lot of work with the 3000 to get the tiny scratches out. Fortunately, it was in a small area. The HF jitterbug was only $25 so I had my doubts about how long it would last but it's still going strong. I think one sheet of W or D makes three sheets for the JB. Does not use too much air.
Pierce
Before we painted, the attached is Cindy's timeless writeup on how she kept our gel-coat looking like new all the time.
I used the Cindy and Barry program and it worked great. Did it myself last spring by hand for the most part Only used machine on the big surfaces without decals. Did it in the barn so a few hours a day, took a little over a week. Will do it again next winter but might enlist some help.
Some decals leave stains, my 89 decals left a brown stain that penetrated the entire gel coat wet sanded thru the gel coat. I really wanted an all white gel coat naked coach. But that is not in the cards. I am going to have to wrap or have the front cap painted. Wrap is looking like the best option.