Had the coach out this weekend and had a problem with the generator.. after about 3 hours of run time it dies and the fault light on the dash comes on. The first time it happened we were about 20 mins from our destination with no good place to pull over so I didn't check it till after we parked. Pushed the fan circuit breaker and the main on off on the panel and it started so I hoped it was a fluke. Today we had stopped for lunch and when we came out the generator was off, the coach was still cool so I don't think it had been off long, it had been running about 3 hours. I moved the same buttons I moved Friday and it started and ran long enough to get the hood closed and get to the door.. trying the same switch moves were not successful in a restart. 2 hours later Stopped at loves to fill up before getting home I tried a restart.pushed the cooling fan reset did not clear the fault light on the dash but turning the main switch off then back on cleared the dash fault light and allowed the generator to start. No lights were on on the generator panel and the power circuit breakers were not tripped..... Anyone had an issue like this or have an idea where to start looking. The timing is perfect, we are leaving for angel Fire New Mexico Friday and really need the generator for the roof air for the road side stop over the 1st nite.... Texas is HOT right now!
My generator is a power tech 10kw generator
UPDATE. I THINK WE FOUND MY PROBLEM. With the great help of Rudy we determined that the thermostat was not opening enough and it would shut down on high temperature. The high temp light must not work. Pulled the thermostat ran for 1 1/2 hours no problem.. installed a new thermostat tonight ran for 45 mins with no problem, so with my fingers crossed I hope there will be no more updates.. we'll find out Friday when we leave for New Mexico.. a big thank you to Rudy for being the parts runner while I had to work and the help troubleshooting the problem.....
Keith
Keith,
Did it have a low oil pressure light or over temp light on. When it cooled down did you check the coolant and the oil level? It could simply be low on coolant or oil. I had an issue when I bought my coach 7 years ago it would shut off after about 30 minutes. What I found was a loose fan belt. I would check the simple stuff first.
Keith- I just went through something like this with my Powertech 10kw. First I changed fuel filters, then checked coolant and burped the remote radiator. Still had off and on run, then stop like you. Called Powertech who said they think I have a diesel problem with the Kubota. Took it to a diesel shop and after looking over everything, we concluded something electrical is sometimes telling the fuel solenoid to shut off and stop the engine. We replaced the oil pressure switch ( single pole on my Kubota) and the fuel pressure solenoid. The tech also showed me how I can run the generator on manual by taking out the fuel pressure solenoid, installing a plug in the hole and then using the manual shut off when I am done. This was a few days ago and so far have not used the generator much but tested it several times over a couple of days before leaving the area in Minnesota. I had no fault lights on the generator but I am told that is not unusual.
Check out my post titles- a view of the future in the discussion section. Hope this helps you out and you get it running right.
Just went out to check some things over. Took off radiator cap, water there. In July changed oil, oil filter and fuel filters. Just got it out of the shop, exhaust pipe had broken off exhaust manifold, fixed. Had them replace fan belt, it was the same size I was there when they replaced it. Just ran it both hoses to and from the radiator are warm so I think there is a water flow.. Did not see a way to burp the radiator, but there is a line from the top of the water pump that ties into the filler neck that I assume would let any trapped air out of the system, it was hot. The fan was running.. The only thing I noticed that was kinda weird was the outer end cap of the radiator was only hot a little more than half way up, water goes out that side at the bottom, the hose going in the top on the other side was hot... I checked the oil prior to going.. where was the oil pressure switch and fuel pressure solenoid located?
One of my problems is I'm working 430am to 430pm this week so taking it anywhere is a problem.. I have a friend that has volunteered to be a parts runner if I need one..
Keith
Keith- on mine oil pressure switch is just above the oil filter- single pole with a wire attached to it.
Fuel pressure solenoid is up and to the left side - you will see a wire group connected into it. It is removed with an Allen wrench and fits in left to right. Take off the cover to check your oil and you can see all this right in front of you. It is storming and dark here in N. Dakota right now so I can't get a pic. Best of luck. Got these parts from a Kubota dealer- fyi.
Keith, Which engine do you have the kubota or the Isuzu?
Mine is Isuzu. The oil pressure sensor is on the back side of Engine.
Drop the pan under the frame and slide the generator out. it is just left of center, 2/3 from the bottom. Mine has a single wire on it.
I changed mine out this past spring. It was leaking oil, the pan caught much of it , which dumped right where I needed to lay while changing. Fun
" Did not see a way to burp the radiator"
(Say's 2002 and up - may or may not apply here) but: Procedure for bleeding the coolant system on Powertech Generators (http://www.beamalarm.com/Documents/Generator/procedure-for-bleeding-the-coolant-system-on-powertech-generators.html)
Keith, Have your fuel lines been replaced? We had a similar symptom that was due to air getting into the original fuel lines, causing the engine to stall. It would (usually) restart after turning the power toggle switch off/on. Replacing the fuel lines corrected the problem.
Kubota motor
2002 Is a Different set up than my 2000
Fuel lines are original, MisterEd would it run for 3 hours before this happened?
Hope these pics post
Perfect!
We have the same generator. Ours was sucking air though tiny cracks in the aged supply lines. Sometimes it would run for 2-3 hours, with an occasional hiccup....other times, not so long. On our generators, turning off/on the master switch on the unit resets the fault code, and primes the fuel system, and purges air through the return to tank line. When the lines get really bad I doubt this would still work.
UPDATE. I THINK WE FOUND MY PROBLEM. With the great help of Rudy we determined that the thermostat was not opening enough and it would shut down on high temperature. The high temp shutdown light must not work. It was running about 220* Pulled the thermostat ran for 1 1/2 hours at a temp of 180*,no problem.. installed a new thermostat tonight ran for 45 mins with no problem at 177*, so with my fingers crossed I hope there will be no more updates.. we'll find out Friday when we leave for New Mexico.. a big thank you to Rudy for being the parts runner while I had to work and the help troubleshooting the problem.....
If you have a source and part number for the thermostat,please post,thanks.
After I changed out my fuel lines I had a hard time getting it started. Worked to much to worry about it for a while, but then just tried to restart it many times, after bleeding the fuel lines and it started, rough at first, but then all was good, for a bit, then it cut out.
Going to change to oil soon, and the air filter, and coolant on it (Isuzu Engine) and fuel filters, and see. If still having issues with it will try changing out the solenoid and oil pressure sensor and thermostat. In fact, if they are not to expensive, I think I will order double to have on hand.
If anyone has the part numbers for the Isuzu for those that would be great.
Searching these forums can be hard sometimes for those. Tried to find the part number for the air filter on it and couldn't.
Sucks when the genny doesn't work.....
Also HDFF, thanks for posting the resolution to your issue.
There are so many dead threads here of people not finishing their issue and the resolution of how it came to be fixed to be a real annoyance. You have to search a lot of dead threads sometimes to find the winner. And while Barry's excellent resource has a ton of info, doesn't always have what I was looking for.
Changing out any diesel fuel supply line introduces a lot of air to the system. With the generator, you can open the little valve with the "T" handle if you have one and then just go to the glow position on the toggle switch at the generator or supply 12V to the electric fuel pump and pump for about 30 seconds. If you don't have the bleed valve that allows fuel and air to go back to the tank, you will have to open a low pressure fuel line at the injection pump. Why? Because the electric pump does not have enough pressure to overcome the spring loaded return valve that requires somewhere around 7 psi to overcome the spring's pressure. Photos below show the 4 psi the electric pump generates and the return valve. If you don't have a return valve, you can just loosen the nut next to the location of the check valve and get rid of all the air that way. If you try and start the engine before you bleed the system, you may get air into the main injection pump. This may require at least one line to be loosened a half turn at the fuel injector and then the engine cranked until it starts.
Pierce
Water Pump 8970698820 8-97069-882-0 for Isuzu 3LA1 3LB1 632088760677 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F323355485266)
Genuine OEM Part 8-97160654-0 Thermostat for Isuzu 3LB1 4LB1 Engine John... (https://www.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173636547010)
First one is water pump. Second is thermostat. Note this is for Isuzu 3LB1. Also fits other Isuzu models. Shipping from China no problem.
I did an r&r on my Kubota cooling system last year. I replaced the thermostat, hoses, water pump and had the radiator cleaned. Its kind of funny I was going to just buy a new radiator. Theyre so small they cant cost much. Well I went shopping and found that they cost over $1500!!! Make darn sure you take care of it. It cost me $70 to get it cleaned.
In 2015 when we were preparing to move south, we needed to have the radiator in the Rockwood repaired and since the radiator shop was amenable I have my eBay find for my motorcycle cleaned and tested. While I was in and out, the guy was working on a four section radiator for a Volvo generating plant that ran the rock crusher in a gravel pit. The lead time for the Volvo radiators was way out there, and as it turned out it was less expensive and faster to build a new radiator array.
When the manufacturer quotes a fantasy price, keep in mind that it's just a radiator and there are people who still make a living repairing and building radiators. And the cost may be more reasonable than you would think.
Home - Bob Rondeau's Radiator Shop (http://www.bobrondeausradiator.comcastbiz.net/)
I had the radiator cleaned out at A mom and pop old school shop, the old guy wouldn't take any money. Here is a pic of the thermostat and gasket package, they were around $30. Heading to New Mexico in the morning so hopefully it passes the test.
Well the party is over, Friday the generator ran for 10 hours before shutting down and giving me a fault light on the dash. Rode the last 2 hours with the windows open, not to bad. Reset it this morning and it ran for about 20 minutes and shut down. We are in New Mexico so it's cool enough that I won't need it, gonna be a warm ride home next week.....
Link Sharing (https://s.amsu.ng/oQp4rH6Tib2N)
With any luck. The above pictures will show the loose belt put on by ..... Its too large to be tightened any more. This is the 8k isuzu Pt generator. I will do research to find proper belt. The water pump and thermostat part numbers I listed are correct for the 3lb1 engine.
Do you have a fault light on the generator panel?
Have you metered out the latching relay ? I had a flaky genset a few years back and it was a bad latching relay. It would loose contact and shut the generator down.
Mark
No lights on the Ginny are on, just a red fault light on the dash.
Where is this latching located? Do you have a power tech 10k?
That is the same indication I would get. The latching relay on mine is in the control box. It is a white finder latching relay. The same one used in other places in our coach like water pump and kitchen light. I don't have a 10k but I believe they use them in the bigger ones as well. It is worth testing to make sure that is not it. Here are pictures of mine. It is in the back right corner of the box.
Mark
My 10k has the latching relay in the control box also. The only thing is that my control box was moved to the bay under the driver seat and a PIA to get to.
John M.
Mine is also under the drivers seat. Its a split system to keep vibration down I guess.
Looks like this now.
Just below it is the res for the windshield wiper cleaning system that now has residue of antifreeze ..... :facepalm:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uQWawJCekRG4cNEGw_F9j70XnrMzrYkACqGw1p71EXSwrbZjBAlTdvXvgvzuNWbOqs3B5a0NmJTs8BB-cNxqkszA6D_GdVNNzSjEflbtipMdYLxJNcbUpDJIPmoMzB0l-WNsPXoP2tG3NKPdrY6wdjgkau4U14mmboErW11DubOMHbjeBs_0Lf7BeZTmWZJ8E4L6Rfo2T8yUUQoKIKoy1vcDHAJ_UYC2rxNZnTVNALzrBUSIsp7yMIGM0Mw2qKuCmdoE_hO7P8PUSIzuO77xAsMtAWeYRm6XjFdK9tICrI1jkJD5YviSy0EtzB8gkMoHjJ9J6XlGDsFJ57C_QlQN5eLO20F7ADoaSEple0uIlg09_YBG7734NU_ANbUwf9cDi7IcFWE5v75zkadjEoZv9dq2KETcU3466loioSjFpODKgNHMr8oSDau2Lz-W9l8XaS13x21WUNcAX1YUz8YIztXJXG4jDuphsCcFYq1OMV8iWR4LvHRduJk9furDIEWbDU2mxShcQSvJjz1TIsHtiiAAy50dfUNk10vNo_3AojEx4U6634p6Qds_5PANlvXGsnD3TIoEQ3SNGXSvyGW1zAtsRk5QpvAl5KUdtM7rKPN5RN62feru-UsPkUKgK-SQr3RwTE9brnvdqikiy6bHhEsNCQxP6GyzcxneIWvrwusnWJwgO-tujg=w727-h969-no)
They were concerned about heat when these mods were made. Maybe why so many voltage regulator problems in the generator compartment. But it also eliminated vibration.
Just purchased new radiator hoses and a 32" belt for Isuzu 3lb1 8k generator at o'Reilly. Just shy $50.00. Radiator turned in to be rodded and cleaned.
Anyone that has moved the control box from generator to another location. What parts did you need. Wire sizes, colors, normal splices, connectors. That is what I am wondering about. Limited materials here. But my fingers do great with web supplies.
Has your generator issue been resolved?
-Mike-
So far yes, I changed the control board on the generator and have about 6 hours run time with no issues.
Keith
I had similar problem, not being handy, I took Big Beauty over to the PowerTech service agent here in Fort Worth, Cantwell Power. They discovered Oil Temp sensor was bad. I had that replaced and everything cleaned in the cooling system cleaned while they had it out/apart. We have the PT 10KW. Something else to check maybe. Hope you figure it out soon! I can double check the paperwork to make sure what I'm remembering is correct, but she's been running like a champ since. Enjoy NM!
Whoops sorry, just saw you think it's resolved.