I've researched many of the generator shut down threads here and have gathered a wealth of information but haven't been able to find one related to this exact problem with this exact generator.
My 1995 U320 Power Tech Kubota 10 kW generator has been running perfectly and on a recent trip after running perfectly for several hours it decided to shut down and then after restarting would shut down each time after about 5 minutes of operation. I've checked it at home at various times and it shows the same characteristics each time it's operated. My tank fuel level is nearly full, as is the generator's oil and coolant. The shut down characteristic is the same whether the generator is under load or with no load. After shut down it won't immediately restart--but will restart after waiting perhaps 30 minutes. This generator has no warning lights on the generator or dash.
I haven't yet replaced any parts, and would appreciate it if anyone has had this exact problem with this exact generator.
When you start it is the fan running.? The one in the squirrel cage
David...I had a similar issue and the small fuel hose from the block mount to the electric pump was bad ie: cracked.....changed it and all good now.
Your supply line maybe different...
Hans
Yes, that fan is running properly.
Water pump has a belt to drive it. Mine was way worn,
If I'm not mistaken Rudy just helped someone with a similar problem. Shutting down and no lights. I think the culprit was the thermostat not opening all the way. They replaced the thermostat and problem was solved. I'll see if I can find the post.
John M.
Here we go. Hope it works.
—-UPDATE—- Power tech generator problem (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=37671.0)
Well John, the shut down of the 10 kw gen has reappeared. So no real resolution yet.
After replacing the old thermostat with a new one, it ran 10 straight hours and then returned to shutting down after 10 or so minutes.
Maybe the radiator is blocked. Have you run a infrared thermometer on it yet to see what the temps are?
Is there coolant flow?
Are the fault lights remotely located under the drivers seat bay?
Open up the breaker box and check the connections there. Make sure they are ok. At first mine looked fine but the wire was broken off the spade connector.
Not sure how to check the regulator on these things but could be that. Google it and see what the diagnosis path is.
So far with my generator issues.
New voltage regulator. This was found by tech at Ss. He checked voltage at box. Found 160. With new board he dialed it down to 120. Also found various weak, lose wires. Then it ran for 10 hrs. Now it run for 1 hr. Surged, almost died. I troubleshot to small fuel filter (age unkown). Replaced same. Issue repeated. Found radiator at 200 plus. So now I am rehabbing cooling system. New thermostat, water pump, belt, radiator rodded and cleaned. There are pics of how lose belt was on fourm. Today picked up shorter belt 32". New hoses. Radiator in shop for repairs. Then it will be fuel line replacement. Addition of visual racor filter. Change out of fuel pump. Big goal move control box. Separate radiator from engine.
Link Sharing (https://s.amsu.ng/cOXF6jC8F1HN)
This shows how lose belt was.
DJ,
Make sure the electric fuel pump is working.
JD
I just had the same issue. A new Kubota thermostat fixed it.
You could also have a air blockage in the cooling system.
I appreciate all of the responses so far. Looks as if I need to slide the generator forward & do at least a few things. I've never slid it forward before & so I'm looking for helpful hints and "lessons learned." Thanks!
Mine is a 2000 and may be different but it is fairly easy. Raise the coach, and block it up for safety. Go under an unbolt the exhaust pipe, 2bolts. At the front of the generator at the slide frame there are 2 bolts, 1 on either side, remove them and it should slide out.
Keith
David,
Just remove these two bolts and give it a pull. It may be pretty stuck in that you haven't pulled it out before. It won't pull out as far as you would think as the wrapped exhaust pipe will prevent that. You can get the bottom cover out of the way by removing the four bolts that secure it. Then you'll have a great view of the whole deal.
jor
Our generator was doing something similar and it turned out to be a plugged radiator that was causing it to overheat and shut itself off. It might not be it but it's easy to spot once you start looking. I don't think it's an area that many people probably check, we just had the generator serviced at MOT and they didn't notice it
DJ,
My 95 U320 did the same thing to the radiator. One side of the radiator squirrel cage blower pulled air from the generator compartment and it plugged up the radiator with that old generator compartment insulation.
Thanks John. I'll definitely check that out!
On my 95 U320 you don't have to unbolt the exhaust, just remove the two bolts at the front of the track and slide out the generator.
Texhub, as to your loose belt, when we bought our coach in Jacksonville FL over 7 years ago the genset shut down when test driving. We were promised it would be repaired, so when we picked it up on a hot July day we drove about 30 minutes and it shut off. Miserable ride home. I found the belt loose. I tightened the belt used it for 5 more years. Then I decided to pull genset and replace insulation, did the usual thermostat, hoses, a new belt, a couple hundred hours later headed for Texas the genset shut off again. Loose belt. I don't understand the belt stretching that much. It was very tight when installed and when shut off VERY loose. The adjustment bolt hadn't moved.
There are 3 bolts/bolt nut points to insure that belt is tight and kept tight. I will take picture as I just picked up refreshed radiator ($125.00). Big problem was the 33" belt that was in place it is just too long for this application. Have new 32" belt to try instead.
Currently looking at past radiator separations from the fourm. Going to do that as reassembling, just makes sense. I also will be moving control box to driver 1 compartment. Anyone needing pictures of original views with radiator and water pump removed. Please ask.
With limited further investigation I'm suspecting I do in fact have an overheating issue. I'll be replacing (at a minimum) the thermostat and water-pump belt. Has anyone found the best-price source for Kubota engine parts?
Orange paint costs.
Green/yellow costs.
Blue costs
Red costs
All colors of tractors, which any owner will tell you costs.
Kubota.com
Messicks.com
Tractorhouse.com
The solution to my 10 kW Power Tech (Kubota w/remote radiator) engine shutting down after running for a few minutes was relatively simple. Inspection of the belt area showed that the belt had broken because the idler-pulley bearings had failed. The belt and pulley were available from Power Tech. The interesting issue raised by another Foreforums member is that Power Tech shows the correct thermostat being a 180 degree thermostat, while Foretravel used a 160 degree thermostat in our applications. Another benefit of being a part of this group and the sharing useful information that occurs here!
Glad you got it sorted David.!