I have a 1997 u320 and wanting to go from gas stove top to electric. Has anyone done this?
Steve
Steve,
If you are handy it can be done. Most of the work will be just cabinet top replacement which several have updated there cabinel tops as a DIY. I don't want you to think that I am throwing a wet blanket on your project, just some pitfalls that you need to think about.
If you are planning on doing an induction cook top your big hurtle will be on the electrical side. If the built in electric cooktop unit is 220VAC you will find that on your year model coach the generator is wired 120VAC. Can the generator be changed? In short yes, but there are other complications that you will find. The main problem with separating the phases is it will give you only one leg (phase) that has a voltage regulator. So you would have to keep the loads balanced as not to overload one leg or the other.
If you don't plan on using the cooktop on the generator then you can just wire a 220VAC circuit from the breaker panel (if you have the room) and use the cooktop only on shore power.
Several of us have just went with a counter top induction burner.
Mike
I went from 120 volt radiant electric to 2 burner 120 volt induction. Many on Amazon, and different sizes. Normally only 1800 watts total, so can't run both burners at full heat, but some will switch back and forth to keep under 1800.
Great improvement, especially in the summer, coach stays cooler.
One thing to keep in mind with the 120Vac 2-burner induction cooktops is that both burners share the 15 amp circuit. This means you cannot run both above medium at the same time. One burner can be used on medium high to high at a time; it reduces the power available to the second burner. Not a big deal if you don't want to do things like brown meatballs in one pan while boiling water for pasta in another at the same time, but if your style of cooking frequently gets both burners going at a good clip, it's something to think about/be aware of.
Here is what ours ended up looking like. It is a 120V system with 1800W. Works very nicely. We also added a dishwasher below it.
Here's mine.
Thanks everyone for the info. Sounds like something I can live with.
Steve
I (FOT) did the 120V induction - dont find the 1800 watts too much of a limitation, if you need something hot, start with that on one burner, and usually you can turn it down and use the second burner. Also, have a countertop single burner induction (which was the primary cooktop prior to going built in, just really like induction) and a small coleman two burner propane camp stove in the basement for outdoor kitchen when desired.
You will need induction pans, there are good alternatives, including nesting. I use all-clad, do what makes you happy.
FOT remade the cabinet to right of sink that held cooptop, so the cooktop pulls out on two long slides when needed, and pushes back under the countertop when not in use. In that way a LOT of countertop space was recovered without using the hinged top that came from the factory. Oh, and MOT put in new tops during one of (many many many) renovations along the way.
With Aqua hot, residential fridge and induction cooktop there is no need for that massive propane tank, so out it came. Considered adding some more dedicated batteries for the residential, but with Lifeline L16's already replacing the 3 8d's, and 1200 watts on the roof, not really hurting for amp hours, so currently use the space for a tool kit, shop vac, small compressor and small pressure washer.
Love induction, very happy with the changes and don't find the 120V/1800 watt a burden or inconvenience.
link to the cook top in my coach
http://www.trueinduction.com/Double-Burner-Counter-Inset-Model.aspx