One of the areas I am working at home in the next few months is the air system. I want to install extensions for the drains on the forward tanks. I found this but as this is a first venture wanted to verify I am headed in the right direction. Are these the right way to go?
George, I bought all of the fittings for extending the drains, 90° 1/4" pipe thread, 1/4" tube, another 90° fitting, a brass bulkhead fitting and then will reuse the valve that as on the tank now.
Bulkhead fitting
Amazon.com: Vis Brass Pipe Fitting, Bulkhead Coupling, Anchor Coupler, 1/4"... (https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07P5CJKP8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Each costs almost twice for the parts then a 12v NC solenoid valve that you can attach to the tank with a short nipple and wire it up.
1/4" NPT Brass Electric Solenoid Valve 12VDC Normally Closed VITON (standard... (https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00APDNPXG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I used one on the 1/4" line that goes to the always leaking step slide cover. Ignition off, valve closed, no leaks, at least there.
I am going to use all of the parts I already bought.
The extensions you show are probably too short. You will likely need 5 or 6 ft, maybe more by the time you go from point A to point B. You should use DOT rated fittings and tube.
I like Roger's solenoid valve idea, but pretty sure that's not DOT approved for use on brake tanks. I do plan on putting one on the HWH tank tho. That thing collects water like a camel.
OK...I'll bite....why would you install a solenoid?
Cheaper than all of the extensions and fittings you need to move the valves to the side of the coach. Or you can just crawl under there and open them at the tanks.
So far what I have seen that seems to have a DOT rating are the fittings that tubing connects to, either the compression fittings or the push-in fittings. I am not seeing things like a close nipple or 90° fitting or any of the pipe fittings with DOT ratings.
Look at Bendix DV-2 automatic tank drain valves. DOT, install in the air tank.
Fire line equipment.... W/60 drain valve with pull cable.. $12.90 .... several different manufacturers... I use them on all trucks , trailers and Foretravel...Oriely's..
Agree with Dub. These work great.
http://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MBI12103
see ya
ken
With those pull type valves, how do you check to see if any water comes out?? I use that as an indication of condition of the air dryer.
Have a great day ---- Fritz
I used 4 DOT brass compression elbow fittings, about 6ft. of tubing, couplers, and two new valves. Moved it just to the left of the generator hatch. It is easy to access the valves without opening the generator hatch. I don't recall the cost, but it wasn't a whole lot.
Don
With the cable pull drain valves the way you check for moisture is on your knees looking at the tank as you pull the cable.. You will see the moisture if any when you first open the valve.. I ran my cables to the front with access just under generator door... My coach and yours should be very similar.. odd thing is my rig came with cock drain valves where one would have to crawl under the bus to drain. I went under it one time and when I came out that nonsense was fixed..really supprised there was very little moisture in the wet tank because I can't imagine the P.O. crawling under there to drain.. This is one option that I find easier than all the plumbing to put drain valves to the edge of the bus..You decide what works for you.