I did not want the hi-jack the repair thread but this may be important also.
When we have a latch that does not want to release like it should and we pull harder on it that contributes to pulling the rivets loose.
What can we do to maintain the operation of these latches?
I would avoid oily sprays as that just creates a dirt and grime magnet. Use dry graphite lube spray.
The door to the genset radiator on our coach was gooped up and wouldn't close. Cleaned it with an evaporating solvent and treated with dry lube, now it opens/shuts so easily that at times I double check to make sure it's latched.
Thanks my start battery door is bad enough I have to reach up underneath to open it. Its like the rod is not long enough to open the catch.
can we get replacement parts for these?
We had the problem with our utility bay door some time back. Another issue we have is any of several doors opening while under way, despite "clicking" them before hand. I noticed that the tips of the locking slide seem to be a little worn. I've raised the striker plate (piece that is stationary and holds the slide pin) using spacers underneath, but still have the problem from time to time. Any source for new latches?
Super8mm: If not available, Why not just cut the old too short rod and thread it and add a small turn buckle. or just make one using the old one as a pattern.
Sven: I tried to adjust the post on the coach that the door clicks on to. I swear it is a black art getting them correctly positioned. A 1/16" makes a difference and trying to tighten that bolt without the torque moving it in it's mount more than that 1/16" has been near impossible.
Mine is just a flat bar with some bends, I might see if I can find some flat material like that and rebend and drill?
I'd still check with FT to see if the part is available and how much. I guess that there is a bit of satisfaction in home brewing a part. Yet if it's available and cheap. I'd give FT the benefit of a few dollars. I want them to stay in business.
My battery bay door latch doesn't always release. The pull rod seems like it doesn't pull up enough. I added just a bit more bend in it and it works better. Try moving the latch pin too.
Roger, I had the same problem and after a year of laying on my back to fiddle with the rear door latch to open them, I stumbled upon the fix just yesterday. There is a 7/16 nylock nut in the center of the handle assembly. I loosened it and slid the entire handle up a bit in the door, tightened the nut back up and the latch now works perfectly. This only works on the two small rear access doors in the rear of my coach that have a solid bar connecting the handle to the latch. It's a very odd geometry on those latches. Woody.
Good suggestions all. But I have a couple doors that when they are latched up in the open position are difficult to unlatch to lower when I pull the handle. Any suggestions?
Thanks for all the input. Like many others, my start battery door latch wouldn't open. After laying on my back multiple times, I removed the latch, took it home and cleaned it up. It is still on my work bench. I have been using a bungee cord to hold the door closed. I'm planning on putting it back on before next weeks trip. Waiting on getting the coach back from the shop. Hopefully today.
Larry
I've always thought of it as my "anti battery theft device". The only way I can open my battery door is tug on the bottom left. This thread motivates me to correct this. I'll be back shortly if my effort makes it worse.
foliver there are cables attached to the latches that need to be shortened. Access to the adjustment is by removing a small panel in the middle of the door.
Foliver,
See What did you do to your coach today VIII (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=36854.msg366556#msg366556)
The cables pull a pair of retainer latches. They are plastic and wear out. I am in the process of replacing all of mine.