I had this posted buried in my other thread requesting diagnostic help. I now know my problem was a defective ATS #2, the switch that transfers the 110 volt circuits which are powered by either the inverter or the shore power/generator, coming from ATS #1.
I got a Progressive Dynamics PD52V transfer switch. This new box is wired a little different.
I intended to simply use the appropriate sets of L1 and L2 terminals, leaving L3 empty since this just transfers 110 volts. On the output side, wires from L1 and L3 are black to indicate power, while L2 is white to indicate Common. So I initially thought it was logical to use L1 and L2 for my needs.
HOWEVER, on the relay that I believe is the primary, I notice there is a small black wire on the input side coming only from L3, and a small white wire coming from L2. They look like control wires, which leads me to think that I MUST instead use the L2(common) and L3(power) terminals for my input lines, leaving the L1s empty, as these little wires are likely the control wires to set priority. Am I correct????
I do not understand why there is NO real schematic with the new box to tell me these are control wires. It would be easy to figure out with a little more than the block diagram!
Attached is a picture of the INPUT side of the box. I also have no idea what the red wires and yellow wires are for.
(https://stitchallthethings.files.wordpress.com/2019/10/20191002_175514.jpg)
As you are now dealing with 110 volts (over 30 volts can easily start a fire, kill or do serious damage), I would recommend hiring a rv tech, posibly a mobile one adept with electrical.
On this forum I found good information on the following thread that gave me good information when I changed out my ATS:
Transfer switch questions (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=26766.0)
To see if you have the proper replacement model, and the diagrams you are looking for, you might also check with:
Progressive Dynamics, Inc.
507 Industrial Road
Marshall, MI 49068 USA
Ph: (269) 781-4241
Fx: (269) 781-7802
sales@progressivedyn.com
Schematic is inside cover
Google Image Result for http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6888/Capture.JPG (https://images.app.goo.gl/9MZoTYesd4QKkGPx6)
The red and yellow wires are the generator time delay.
White and Black, power to the time delay board.
Red and Yellow power out of the time delay board to the coil for the contactor.
I wrote two posts over on FaceBook giving you more with which to work.
Here is a picture of mine after install, Gen input on the left, shore power on the right, power output top right.
Steve
I wouldn't have ANY question about the Gen/Shore power ATS. The question is about ATS #2, under the bed in my 2002 U270. It is marked as Switching Relay #2 on this FT diagram.
(https://stitchallthethings.files.wordpress.com/2019/10/20191003_090916.jpg)
I decided to duplicate the working conditions to learn for myself as I didn't get an answer from someone actually replacing their inverter transfer switch.
To do so, I got two 3-wire power cords from Goodwill and cut off the ends. I wired one to the input side of each relay.
I just checked output with a voltmeter, and those terminals are also L2 and L3. Picture below.
I went with my first thought, that the terminals marked L2 and L3 were required to be used for both of the inputs. That IS correct. No moving any of the wires around, just using L2 and L3. To be fair, I did not try the L1 and L2 combination...but I do not think they would have worked...and a problem solved IS a problem solved.
Here is what happens:
When BOTH input plugs are energized at the same time, the Black cord side will immediately close its relay and immediately pass power. The white cord is on a delay circuit. It will take over in 30 seconds, releasing the black cord's relay and closing its own relay. Thus the white cord has priority and is the power of choice for the unit. It is the relay closest to the circuit board.
Plugging the black cord in AFTER the white cord has been energized (the 30 second delay has passed) will have no effect. The white cord keeps power as long as it is live and the status of the black cord is irrelevant after the white cord has passed its delay. Unplugging the black cord changes nothing, since the white has control. Plugging the black cord back in does nothing, either.
Removing power from the white cord, while the black cord is still connected, will cause the white cord's relay to instantly open and the black cord's relay will instantly close and take over passing power.
Given that situation, I believe the correct mounting will be to have the main power (coming from the breaker box) replace the white cord (and thus be "on" whenever there is shore or generator power). With the Inverter power cord replacing the black wire, if there is no main power, then the inverter will take over and latch its relay...but will go off as soon as I plug the coach in to shore power or turn on the generator (after a 30 second delay).
The only oddity I see will be that whenever I plug in to shore or fire up the generator, there will be a 30 second lag (assuming the inverter was off). If the inverter was on, shore power will take over and remove the inverter's load in 30 seconds. There is a note as to how to remove the 30 second delay to transfer to shore/generator power immediately, but I really don't mind.
If anyone has some more thoughts, please let me know. Tomorrow will be install for real day.
(https://stitchallthethings.files.wordpress.com/2019/10/20191003_190605.jpg)
All installed, all working just fine!
I had faith in you. ^.^d
Good that you got it working. My PO had all those boxes removed (I still have them) and put in a manual transfer switch. Problem solved!
Much better IMO. Very low failure rate. Just plug in, and switch from off to shore or off to generator or generator to shore. Thats what is used in boats and imo a much better system..