I give up. Does anyone know the capacity of the hot water heater in my 1992 U225
Grand Villa?
I might be wrong, but I think it is 6 gallons.
Correct-- 6 gallons.
The model number which includes size should be visible when you open the outside access door.
Thanks TurboJack. I've looked twice for the data plate and it wasn't until I swallowed my pride and asked that I actually saw the data sticker on the right side. My standard for a successful day is waking up alive, so I'm all good here.
I'm going to order a new burner tube and metering jet. My burner has too much fuel going in and the yellow flame curls up around the first corner. I cut some off the end of the burner tube so the air shutter is fully open but the flame is still too rich.
FWIW, once i replaced the old element, the Hott Rod system a PO works great.
Be sure to verify propane pressure-- particularly if the regulator is old. High pressure will also cause this. Not necessarily identifiable in all appliances, as some have their own regulators as well as the main house regulator at the tank.
New ones are around $25.
I've ordered a new orifice for the burner. Adding more air and a "Meker" screen gives me a more stable flame. If I had a #65 drill I'd know if the orifice is o-kay and I could move on to the regulator.
I knew that chemistry course would come in handy someday.
Meker–Fisher burner - Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meker%E2%80%93Fisher_burner)
At the end of the day a new orifice made things worse so the superceded number is a larger orifice.
I cranked down the fuel pressure until I saw the "right" size flame.
A set of gas jet drills are on their way.
I intend to plug and re-drill the "new" gas orifice to the correct size.
I have all of the bits and pieces gathered for a manometer.
No soot, clean blue flame.
Art
Art,
As I am sure you are aware, pressure out of the propane regulator at the LP tank is a critical safety item.
It affects flame size for refrigerator and heater as well as water heater.
If on doubt, replace it-- under $25. Be sure to get the style that leaves the vent (small screened part) pointing DOWN. So, if regulator is installed vertical, the vent will be on the long axis of the regulator. If horizontal, perpendicular to the long axis. Prices are the same, but they are NOT interchangeable.
I get a pretty get read on the state of the main pressure regulator cooking breakfast every morning on my Magic Chef. I'll have a better idea once I can gauge the orifice size.
FWIW fuel orifices need to be measured optically so there is no chance of changing the opening's diameter. I'm going to use a pin.
Actually, many of the stoves have their own built in regulator. So not always a good indicator of LP system pressure.
If you are building a manometer, connect to a "before appliance regulator" source.
But, as I said earlier, propane regulators have rubber diaphragms. They DO stiffen/fail with age. $25 is a small price for piece of mind.
The built-in appliance regulators don't have much authority so higher line pressure will quickly overpower them.
Building a manometer sounds much more impressive than a loop of tubing, a board some zip ties and three lines spanning a total of 10 inches.
And finally, But Brett! Foretravel made everything so tight. And it's all copper tubing. End whiny rant.
I dropped the Siata fuel tank off at Kendrick Radiator in Atlanta today for cleaning and repair. That will be the end of the mechanical restoration.