Last year my mud flap was in bad shape so I ordered the rubber and stainless piece from fot and rebuilt it I reused the same flat bar along the top where the hanger attaches and bolted the stainless on top of it a year later this is how it looks the rubber is bowed and it looks like crap. Has anyone else has issues like this? For those that have rebuilt theirs did you add any more bracing on the back to keep the rubber stiff? The new rubber was already starting to tear. Hard to believe that the flap I replaced last year was the 18 years old and this one looks so bad after a year. I have another piece of rubber and am ready to rebuild it again but want it to last longer than a year. Tell me what you have done and and how it is working out.
Keith
When you level does the flap get bent? I have seen posts on how to hook the flap up before leveling.
Yes Most of the time I raise it up, can see one of the eye bolts I use in this pic to the right of the F
Next time (if there is a next time) put oversize holes in the rubber, fender washers on the bolts, and shoulder bolts so the rubber can still expand or contract over time.
Also, try to find a company that sells conveyor belting. It has a lower coefficient of expansion than the rubber you now have.
Here is the back side of ours two years later.
And the front. As you can see, I doubled up on the amount of bolts in the FT flap.
Keith- when mine was so bad I took it off so as not to lose it on the road. After much research, I decided to leave it off as I have mud flaps behind my rear wheels . A lot of information online and many opinions, but with the wheel well flaps I find no reason to have the big one on the rear. I have had it off since this summer, driven from Ohio to North and South Dakota, then back via some roads under "construction", and find no new damage to my toad. Now I no longer have to think about the flap getting crunched while leveling which is nice.
This is my solution- I know others will not agree but I thought it was worth sharing so you have another option.
Cya down the road..................... ^.^d
I'll take a look tomorrow, but I think when Brett re-did ours, he raised it so it did not drag, which could have caused your problem.
Keith, if the rubber gets oil on it it will do just what yours did. And you had an oil dipstick leak not too long ago. It doesn't make too much difference how many bolts you put in, the rubber wrinkles.
My opinion: The rubber has absorbed something and swelled (swolled?).
Or heat/thermal related swelling.
X2, it looks like a chemical, (oil, de-icer)) or an excessive heat issue
Not sure about what distorted rubber, maybe the rubber from FOT was bad?
We were able to find a piece of an old conveyor belt years ago and used it.
I think you did a good job, with your stainless Foretravel metal sign being is such good shape. I don't think you could prevent it, unless you treated it with a petroleum product like some tire dressings.
Because carabiners wear and break, we put two on each side for redundancy. If a carabiner breaks and the mudflap falls disaster could happen.
Roger, this started before the oil leak but did get worse after the leak. The trip we had the oil leak it was covered and dripping oil. We'll see if the rebuild will last now that the oil leak is fixed. You would think that something hanging behind the motor would be somewhat oil resistant.
Also this old rubber, when new, seemed like it would treat easy, it is real hard and stiff and if you bend it it will tear/crack
I wish I could find a piece of old conveyor belt to use
Keith
Why not just go get a new piece of conveyor belt from a farm implement store.
Here you go, even with Prime delivery
Amazon.com: Conveyor Belt Material (https://www.amazon.com/Conveyor-Belt-Material/s?k=Conveyor+Belt+Material)
Keith,
If you have either a coal power plant or rock quarry close by they generally will give you a section of used belt.
Mike
Also check with the city garage--if you are up north. I once got some belting from the city of Appleton, WI.
The "endless" drive belting that farmers use on the PTO pulley on their tractors also works.
I made one out of conveyor material and two pieces of stainless flat bar. This was about 4 years ago. Not fancy like the ones with the logo, but functional and stout.
I agree that the flap is probably not needed, but I just thought it made a cleaner look on the stern. There was no flap on the coach when we bought it, so the prior owner didn't find it necessary.
Mine looks pretty rough too. Took it off. Might just do a "conveyor belt rebuild" in the future but for now, will keep it off.
We use the rv hula skirt and it works well for us. We also run the Protect-A-Tow between the rv and the tow vehicle.
John M.
Recycled rubber stable matting might be a possibility, available from urban farm supply stores, downside is about a half inch thick.
Go by any quarry and ask for their worn out used belting, They were glad to give me a pickup load of it several years ago, put worn side forward out of site and the stuff will last forever. Do a search here and I think you can find pictures of my 280 that I rebuilt the mudflap on.
Gary B
I live just south of Houston so no quarries around, where would I find a quarry at? We're going to Indiana in December, maybe I'll look at farm type stores there
I have 2 bro in laws that work in quarry. Will ask about belt material. Let's see what can be gotten. Then maybe if I am unable road trip. I can meet up with a west bound member and pony Express belt material.