I have an intermittent problem that I need some help with. After making a sharp turn turn at a stop sign to the right the coach pulls hard to the left. after making the turn. It pulls to the left for a few miles then mysteriously straightens out and all is well. I have had the front brakes serviced twice with no help. I measured the wheel temp after this and both wheels were the same temp and there is no smell of hot brakes. Is there anything in the steering box or suspension that could cause this? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Terry
Maybe trailing arm bushings/.Spring perch bushings./ maybe steering box.
Is it possible that the Safety Steer stabilizer is sticking?
A rear brake hanging will also cause a pull to one side.
King pin seizing?
Check heating on rear brakes for sticking caliper. Jack front end and check components moving wheels side to side. Good chance this could be the problem. I like to grease kingpins with tires off the ground. Hand gun will generate more pressure than air grease gun. Check PS fluid level.
Ours pulls badly off the road when passing roadside chicken BBQ in Mexico. ^.^d
Pierce
And, we call it the "Burnt Chicken Tour of Mexico". GREAT eats--each one a little different.
A slightly stuck ride height valve caused our coach to lean and the coach to pull.
Coach would not always come back to the exact ride height. Twisted. Look at the air bags. All should measure the same height.
Hope this helps
What was the result?
Thanks,MM
The coach is in the shop. No word yet. Could it be the Safety Steer is hanging up when I turn sharp right? I drove it last weekend and watched my hard right turns, no problems at all she tracked good.
Yes. Most likely the transverse shock .
Got the coach out of the Ft Walton Beach shop after a week. They found nothing wrong and said everything was fine. I paid $150.00 for diagnosis time and drove off. The first right turn I made the coach started pulling to the side. I opened the side window and to my amazement I heard a grinding noise coming from the right front wheel well. I stopped and investigated the noise and found the right disc was very shiny and 20 degrees hotter than the left. I pumped the brakes numerous times and continued driving. The coach returned to straight tracking. I did not return to the repair shop. I am going to take the coach to Horn truck repair in Mobile, Al. to look at the dragging right brake. I trust them as they repaired my rear brakes six years ago. The only problem is that they are 100 miles from my home. Lesson learned use a repair shop who stands by their work. I will up date after Horn truck repairs the brakes.
Terry
Sounds like the caliper is not releasing/the lazy side is not retracting as it should.
When was the last time the caliper slide pins were inspected? Calipers PROPERLY lubed?
I recommend adding the retractor spring kit when you have them serviced.
And, since many fire trucks use the same system, you might check with your local fire department for where/who does their work before committing to a 200 mile roundtrip.
The repair shop in fort Walton beach is the one who services all county fire trucks. Last year I spent $1000.00 with them to disassemble, lube and add helper springs. They used the clay based lube also. They even replaced a leaking wheel seal. The coach started the same problem soon after they repaired the brakes. The pulling problem was the original issue that I had.
Wonder if they reused the old slide pins that may have been pitted and therefore seized much more quickly than good ones???
If the bushings have too much clearance the caliper can get cocked when the brakes are applied. Or as Brett said pitted pin can cause the same issue. Suggest you back off that caliper for the 100 mile trip. There is a post and even maybe a video on how to do it on the forum.
John. the safety steer wouldn't cause the rotor to heat up.
Fix the brakes , then drop the steering shock off .
Yup, steering shock easy to remove-- and that will "prove" whether it is involved in binding under certain conditions
My calipers required replacing the bushings. Plus the pins. Plus adding the helper springs
Oh the joys of future projects. Brakes are on the list. While being able to brake properly is quite up there with being able to breathe well, I still think that I might want to go and do it myself. Here's a perfect example of what happens when you take your coach to a place to have work done pay them good money and get nothing.
Check your rubber air hose to that caliper.
Bob, it's not that big of a deal to change rake pads--Get on the meritor web site and it will explain what to do and how to adjust brakes. I did my back ones this past spring --plan to do the front this spring. I took front and rear apart and cleaned, lubed adjusted brakes then added helper springs. I'm slow I think I worked on it for parts of 4 or 5 days
Chris
Finally got it fixed! I experienced the same problem after the 3rd visit to A1 Diesel. I then I decided to take the coach to Horn Truck in Mobile, Al. Immediately after they removed the right wheel the problem was evident. In February 2019 I paid A1 Diesel 1500.00 to service the front brakes including adding helper springs. What was found when Horn Truck pulled the wheel was a half finished job. Only one pin was removed and cleaned and added a helper spring. The other pin had never been pulled or a helper spring installed. No wonder the brake had problems. Horn trucking replaced all pins, bushings, and installed helper springs on both front brakes. The price for this was $1300.00. I save all the old parts and took pictures of the work performed by A1 Diesel. How can I get some of my money back?
You could ask for some refund and they will likely say take a hike.. next would be small claims.. I would be peed off and would likely take it to small claims providing all your ducks are lined up as you suggest.. Get tired of paying hard earned money for nothing.
I love paying for repairs with American Express, they really fight for you when there is a problem, I have got issues resolved that I would have been stuck with if I had paid cash or check.
A credit card is always best form of payment, a payment can be disputed for 60 days legally and some cards will do it for longer, contacting the vendor or repair facility and acting as a negotiator., getting a refund for the charges.
I would light a fire under em for sure. Not only did they steal from you, they endangered your life and the lives of others with improperly serviced brakes. They need to answer for this.
Tear-em a new one on Facebook,have had good results with companies large and small, hurt-em in the pocketbook.
Not a fan of back and forth on social media for issues.. Rather look them in the eye and let them represent themselves in front of a judge after I make my case in person in their office..
If your a thousand miles away it's hard to go back and there's a chance this guy is the judges brother in law.
Many places try to do a really good job but one mechanic, sales person, chef does a bad job. I do not believe that it is right to blast them on social media without talking to the owner or manager but preferably the owner.
If they give you no satisfaction then the gloves are off, but generally they will try to make everything right.
If you will not say something to someone's face don't say it at all. Social media is full of people who do not have the courage of their convictions and blast businesses unfairly.
Many times it's a combination of "say" a bad mechanic and a bad problem and customers with unrealistic expectations.
If you do not give praise on social media, you have no right to complain on social media, like everything in life, it's a two way streak.
It's funny because my son in law is the local judge. The repair shop is local too.