Any experience with RV solutions "cheap heat" electric heat add on system?
Is an electric heat option to allow electric heat/ propane heat through existing furnaces.
No knowledge of the product mentioned, but why complicate things? A few small electric ceramic heaters spaced around the coach seems to work well for us. They are quiet, inconspicuous and inexpensive, plus they allow "zone heating" of different areas of the coach. Granted, we don't camp in sub-zero conditions, but if we did, THEN we would use the very effective original propane heaters (with the attendant fan noise).
But, as always, you should DWMYH (Do What Makes You Happy)
We've used these in three coaches, including some pretty cold temps! :
I looked at that system a few years ago. I can't remember exactly why I didn't go that route. There some issue with fit IIRC.
Since then we have used small electric 1500w heaters. One in front and one in the bath. They work great down to the 40ºs. I leave the propane furnace on about 68º. That way if the electrics can't keep up the propane kicks in.
The heaters also saved our butts during a winter in Denver where the low hit -9º overnight. Moved one into the wet bay when the cube heaters we were using couldn't cut it.
As Chuck says DWMYH.
see ya
ken
I use a Mr. Heater propane heater because I'm rarely plugged-in but I also have a "Milkhouse Heater" which works great if I am plugged in. I use a lamp with a 40 watt bulb plugged into a Thermo Cube (powered by my small inverter) under the couch to prevent the water pump and pipes from freezing up if it ever gets that cold. You could do the same thing in the basement to keep your pipes from freezing up.
*I earned early on that the RV furnaces are propane and power hogs and put an undue strain on my house batteries -- especially in a series of cloudy days around the winter solstice.
Utility 'Milkhouse' Style Electric Space Heater #DQ1702 - Walmart.com (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Utility-Milkhouse-Style-Electric-Space-Heater-DQ1702/642591645)
TC-3 Cold Weather Thermo Cube Thermostatically Controlled Outlet - On at... (https://www.walmart.com/ip/TC-3-Cold-Weather-Thermo-Cube-Thermostatically-Controlled-Outlet-On-at-35-Degrees-Off-at-45-Degrees/21154717?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=127624&adid=22222222227016784611&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=41081127152&wl4=pla-78765345272&wl5=9030764&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=125360572&wl11=online&wl12=21154717&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiA_MPuBRB5EiwAHTTvMRJwEInm3Idn3f8UiTyG2veJwaYsnNu2Cy-Wv_XRoSsweg7_aTCjBxoCXAgQAvD_BwE)
I've used ceramic heaters myself, and it worked fine with little investment.
Was thinking that with the furnace blower and furnace thermostat the temperature would be more even. Park, plug in, flip a switch to "electric" and let 'er rip!
But they run for $750 + install and that'll pay for a ton of ceramics.
Unvented catalytic heaters get the most from each propane BTU and produce very little CO. Not as safe as the OEM blower noise heaters but they don't waste about 40% out the exhaust either.
Pierce
RV Comfort Systems - The CheapHeat System - YouTube (https://youtu.be/6GbPGp9eZ1U)
Lol. ONLY $995 -- plus installation.
A Milkhouse heater and a Thermo Cube will cost you a total $38 and you can go get them at Walmart and plug them in in a seconds.
I have a "Little Buddy" catalytic heater that I used in a previous 5th wheel. I agree, they are very efficient. Puts out lots of heat, but also puts out lots of water vapor that condenses on ever cold surface.
I know. Like I said, lots of ceramic heaters for that.
I just like the idea of being able to choose my heating method, like the hot stick does for water.
10K BTU Blue flame from Northern, blows you out of the MoHo, with no electric loss.
Window cracked, with vent cracked, no worries.
Removed the drawers in the lower side of hutch, because we never used them. Goes right in there when not in use.Can move it around.
On 10' quick disconnect LP hose, Teed in below at Water heater LP line.
Cheap as chips:
Mr. Heater Propane Vent-Free Blue Flame Wall Heater - 10,000 BTU #MHVFB10LP... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mr-Heater-Propane-Vent-Free-Blue-Flame-Wall-Heater-10-000-BTU-MHVFB10LP/333288150958?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649)
Just a cautionary note: I had a problem getting the furnace to light in my 1st (1981) Foretravel. I got that fixed easy enough but in the process I found that the exhaust pipe was totally rusted through. It could have burned the coach down or killed me with CO.
Check your model and serial number as there are a number of recalls on furnaces/water heaters.
P
We use the oil filled heater like Mike, plug it in at the front of the coach under the dash that's the coldest area. Camped at 9,000 ft with 3" of snow and temps down to 20 we had the heater set at medium heat no problem toasty all night.
We put our little electric heater up front, a small 12V fan blowing toward the back of the coach up near the ceiling, and open any cupboards that have water lines in their bottoms. Works great and no problems at all---except when the door latch froze while at Potter's Creek one year. Hairdryer took care of that.
On an ORED the front propane furnace ducting runs next to the water lines under the sofa and feeds into the valve compartment in front of the water tank. The furnace heat keeps the water lines and water tank from freezing.
If you look closely you will see the water lines are not against the side walls. Less chance of freezing.
Would recommend you keep the front furnace on somewhat if you are using a ORED in below freezing temps for any extended length of time.
Rather than turning on the front furnace we propped the couch open with a soda pop can just so air would circulate under the couch and on the lines.
The back side of the "L" shaped water tank is against the front firewall. The front furnace ducting turns and ends in the "well" where the "toe" of the water tank connects to the drain/fill valves.
Extended real cold weather may require some heat to the tank IMO.
Plus warmer water extends the water heaters ability to produce hot water