I am reinstalling my lower side cargo door trim molding on my 91 GV. I am having to drill new holes in the new metal I welded in. I need some new screws so I went and bought some at hardware store. The problem is they strip out the heads as they try and go in.. The originals go right in no problem. I looked at the original abd and it looks to be #8 12 . I bought some 10 12 but they are too big. The New #8 have too many threads and jam up and strip. I am needing #8" 12 threads screws any ideas on this. Like I said original go right in new holes perfect.
In picture original is in the center new #8 is on left but too many threads. #10 on right has same thread count but is too big and head diameter is larger.
Any ideas? Seems like another one of Foretravel outsourced misfits like the Isuzu taillights....
I used #8 x 2" stainless bought on ebay for my trim. I wanted the 2 inch since it's just biting into edge grain plywood. I did predrill for the 2". I'm surprised the screw would bind and "strip off the heads" into plywood. Any chance the hole in the new metal you put in are not big enough to allow the screw to turn freely.
Hope we are talking about the same thing. Pic of the trim you are talking about might help.
see ya
ken
Use a vernier calipers and measure the minor diameter of the new screws you are trying to use. Compare size to the old screws you took out. If same then I would "chase" the threads with a homemade chaser until you can screw in the new screws. (Homemade means weld a few of the new bolts onto some bar stock pieces and screw in & out a few times)
Are you pre drilling a pilot hole? Using the same hole? What are you using to screw them in? Are they stainless steel or zinc?
Stump,
I switched to machine screws where there was new metal. I had the same issue.
I used a self centering drill bit: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-1-4-in-Steel-Clic-Change-Self-Centering-Drill-Bit-Set-3-Piece-CC2430/205391771
and then tapped each hole. I think I used 8-32 flat head screws.
John.
Tapping the hole, what a great idea. Sounds good on paper anyhow.
I wish I'd thought of trying that before I redid our beltrail.
This forum never stops educating me.
A wee bit of RTV on the new screws will slow the rusting of the rail .
I have tried (and used)chucking the next size stainless screw in my electric drill and then sanding down--on the underside of the screw head--using my 1" belt sander. Screw head then fits flush like old screws but cuts larger thread hole so should last as long as the coach now. Telltale is the phillips head slot goes out to the outside diameter,
I have even converted some spare new screws so they act as "self-tapping " screws, bu using a 4-1/2" grinder and cutting a shallow slot parallel to the axis of the screw. I then "cut" the new thread size with my "screw-tap" into the beltline of the coach. You would never know the screws had been replaced with this method if I wasn't too lazy to paint the screw heads.
I have yet to paint my stainless replacements either. Thought I would hole punch some blue tape as to only paint the screw head. Just need to get a round toit.
Just run the screws into a piece of cardboard. Insert as deeply as you want. The cardboard holds them firmly while you spray them.
Can to any number you want at one time.
Problem is the paint comes off the first time you torque on the screw drive slot.
I glass bead the screw heads before painting, it helps the paint not come off as easily.
Chris
If you are going into metal try thread cutting screws (you need to drill a starter hole)
410 Stainless Steel Thread Cutting Screw, Plain Finish, 82 Degree Flat Head,... (https://amazon.com/Stainless-Thread-Cutting-Finish-Phillips/dp/B00GWZX5XG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=10-32+thread+cutting+screws+1+inch&qid=1574170522&sr=8-1)
Or self drilling screws
Amazon.com: #10 X 1'' Stainless Flat Head Phillips Self Drilling Wood Screw,... (https://amazon.com/Stainless-Phillips-Drilling-Bolt-Dropper/dp/B07C6CC1WS/ref=pd_sbs_60_20?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07C6CC1WS&pd_rd_r=63cafbb2-57b9-4a56-88bf-515eac3ba5b4&pd_rd_w=8wqFl&pd_rd_wg=61sXu&pf_rd_p=52b7592c-2dc9-4ac6-84d4-4bda6360045e&pf_rd_r=VMRX2TTMRT11T9R4GRGB&psc=1&refRID=VMRX2TTMRT11T9R4GRGB)
For 1/8 in wall tubing you will need a bigger pilot hole for sheet metal screws.
Stainless steel screws are not very tough. Use a steel sheet metal screw of the same size to form the threads and then replace it with a stainless screw. Some lube helps too
When I stripped the roof to paint it, I replaced all the screws up there and on the sides of the coach also. Stainless is cheap and I like the look. I used both oval and pan head screws with stainless washers under the pan heads. No paint on any of the screws. After sandblasting my entry step, I tapped and installed stainless machine screws in the step after it was primed and painted.
Sheet Metal Screws Oval Head Phillips Drive #10 x 1" Stainless Steel Qty 250... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sheet-Metal-Screws-Oval-Head-Phillips-Drive-10-x-1-Stainless-Steel-Qty-250/282187850304?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649)
18-8 Stainless Steel Flat Washer #10 ID x 0.500 OD , Qty 250 pcs Pack | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/18-8-Stainless-Steel-Flat-Washer-10-ID-x-0-500-OD-Qty-250-pcs-Pack/282292047428?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649)
Sheet Metal Screws Pan Head Phillips Drive #10 x 1" Stainless Steel Qty 250... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sheet-Metal-Screws-Pan-Head-Phillips-Drive-10-x-1-Stainless-Steel-Qty-250/282187850658?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649)
#12 Self Drilling Sheet Metal Screws TEK Tap Pan Head Stainless Steel All... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Self-Drilling-Sheet-Metal-Screws-TEK-Tap-Pan-Head-Stainless-Steel-All-Sizes/332353860882?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649)
I have sold building materials and hardware since 1976. Owned an Ace Hardware store for 15 years. The rest are correct. Stainless steel all the way. If you can find them with Torx drive heads even better. Only drawback if you somehow twist one off God help you drilling it out.
I considered all drives for the screw heads. Foretravel uses all Phillips up top and on the sides but goes to Square Recessed inside. I went with the Phillips for roof/sides so I would not have to introduce a third type. I set my gun for light torque so it stalls if the screw encounters too much resistance. I remove it and tap. Yes, almost impossible to drill out stainless.
In installing our new deck, I only use Torx screws. They are also available in stainless too. Faster to get the gun on the screw than Square Recessed and easy to remove. Anyone doing a deck should consider the CAMO tool for hidden deck screws. Easy and fast and looks terrific. The deck can easily be sanded without hitting the screws and they make it easy to remove a damaged board.