I plan on installing my Atwood this weekend but am confused on a wiring issue. I've checked other suggested threads but don't see my issue. My rig is ducted with the usual two A/Cs controlled by the 4 button Duotherm. The Duotherm controls the two A/Cs and the single gas furnace. We seldom use the rear A/C so my plan is to install the Atwood and control it with the little remote that came with the unit (I found it) and continue to use the thermostat to control the rear A/C and the furnace.
Today, I checked to make sure everything was ready but can't figure out how to get power back to my thermostat. Here's what I have for wiring:
Driver Side: 2 hot wires (#108 & 5) and 1 ground and a data cable
Pax Side: 1 #108 (not hot) and 1 data cable.
My wiring list indicates 108 is roof A/C but shows #5 as Gauges, Sw LIghts, Warning Bar
So how do I wire this thing so the new Atwood works independently and the rear A/C and furnace continue to work with the Duotherm?
Thanks.
jor
Thermostat will need 12v regardless... 12v goes to the harness @ the board on the AC. The rear will need it also as the thermostat is what takes the signal from the remote
Jor, what I did was to set up each unit independently. The way foretravel set the duo therms up is one unit seem to be the control and the second unit the slave or something like that. The rear being the slave. there's a thermostat obviously in the front of the coach, and a temperature probe in the bedroom underneath the television that is connected with one of the AC units. What I did was to set each one up independently with two separate thermostats. The first thermostat I put in the usual place behind the driver's seat, I used the existing data cable which was six wires but only needs four. That thermostat gets it's 12 volts from the Atwood. That controls the unit in the kitchen. Mine are ducted. The rear unit I control with the thermostat that I installed in the bedroom. Each unit needs both 12 volts ground and 120 volt all of which are there in the ceiling. The data cable or white wire that goes from the front AC to the rear AC I connected with the 12 v to give 12 volts to the rear AC unit. So once you have 12 volt and ground set up and 120 v setup and the thermostat setup now you're good to go. Now as far as the furnace thing is concerned well mine didn't work it wouldn't send a signal to my aqua hot. David and others didn't seem to have that issue I'm not sure why mine didn't work but mine's fixed now by using just simple Atwood thermostats for the heater. The way I installed the rear thermostat was to use the Atwood cable and run it inside the duct That's on the passenger side rear. I came out of the duct hole and installed the thermostat high up where almost where the sliding door goes into. So I can independently operate each AC unit to different thermostat temperatures or I can have one on the humidify and one on cool both on cool or whatever. I hope that helps if you have any other questions please ask.
Bob
By the way the little remote only works with the thermostat as far as I know not with the unit so in order to use the little remote you have to install the Atwood thermostat. And frankly I'm not really sure why you wouldn't since it's new but you would have to install both front and rear thermostats I don't think no scratch that I know that one will not control both units like the duo therms. So in looking at your picture the first one is the picture I believe of the wires going back to the second unit that white wire is the one that I connected to 12V which you see on your second picture also a white wire. So what I did was I wired those two together and connected it to the first AC unit to give that 12 volts. Then I use the white wire in the rear AC to give that unit 12 volts.
Anyone know the secret to removing the Atwood thermostat from its mounting plate?
Thanks,
Trent
Mine releases at bottom center and hooks (hinges) at top on each side.
Like mentioned pull from the bottom and lift.. pops right off.. I need to get a cover for mine as its to bright for me at night.. I take it off and flip it against the wall while we sleep
You guys did such a good job on my recent question, I will try another:
Since Atwood requires separate thermostats, the problem child is locating the rear thermostat. It ALMOST fits in the area below the TV cabinet and the top drawer. Unfortunately, you need about another 1/16" (after removing the temperature sensor and the IR remote sender.
I see two obvious possibilities:
Notch out the center back of the top drawer front. This appears to less visible and objectionable.
Cut a slight notch in the bottom of the TV cabinet where it meets the drawer wall. That way, the thermostat could be angled up at the top of the mounting plate to clear the top drawer. The thermostat will then cover the two holes left from removing the two remote sensors.
Anybody tried either of these proposals? Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Trent
Mine is located on the ceiling at the unit. Not to where I can take a picture now, but unit is in the center of the bath and my thermostat is located on the ceiling against one edge of the return Plenty of wire to reach there..grins.
email sent.
Mine is above the shelf for the tv in the bedroom right at shoulder level (just to the right as you enter the bedroom.. took the harness through the ceiling to the closet and out a hole I made and into the bedroom.. simple..
PO here. I finally got the Atwood A/C installed. Here's how my install went.
ATWOOD THERMOSTAT: I installed the Atwood thermostat in the same location as the original Duotherm. As others have done I used the factory data cable to connect with the supplied Atwood cable. Just terminated the Atwood cable with 4 pin connectors.
WHICH WIRES: My front A/C had two hot 12 wires, #108 and #5. I connected #108 to the Atwood and connected #5 to the wire leading from the front A/C to the rear A/C.
REAR A/C: I connected the #5 hot wire from the front A/C area to the rear A//C.
REAR THERMOSTAT: I relocated the Duotherm to the bedroom just below a factory light switch. I pulled a 4 wire data cable from the rear A/C area to the new location through a little race that Foretravel used for the thermometer.
A couple of comments:
120 V Wiring Obstruction: I had to relocate the 120V box a couple of inches in order to fit the Atwood baffle.
Ground: At first I couldn't get the rear A/C working. Turned out it must have been grounded through the front unit. I grounded it and all was well.
jor