There have been many discussions on this Forum regarding the need or value of fuel additives. Happened to see this on YouTube.
Which Diesel Anti-Gel Additive is Best? Let's find out! - YouTube (https://youtu.be/n8gDN_6esfs)
Pretty cool. Looks like hot shot secrets is da bomb. for 5 cents per gallon seems worth it if your going to be driving in low temps.
I was most impressed by the lubricity and corrosion comparison. I don't think this is high science but qualitatively, pretty informational.
While the tests look to be FAIR, not sure how relevant they are.
What is the correlation of lubricity of straight additive product (what he tested) to that of diesel fuel treated with the proper concentration of the additive. I have no idea, but drawing a conclusion from the one to the other..........
Same for the flammability test. What is the relevance of this test to its effect on improved performance in a diesel engine when the product is used in the recommended concentration?
And the relevance of running a 30 year old 454 gas engine on these products as it relates to your diesel engine-- I guess it is good entertainment value.
A decent Zink additive might be usefull.
As winter is upon us, probably the most important additive is the cetane rating. If you have summer fuel in your tank, this is even more important. Cetane is the opposite of octane as the higher the cetane rating, the lower the compressed air temperature in the cylinder has to be for the injected diesel to explode. So, easier starting in cold weather. Good to have a lubricity additive but if you run biodiesel like we have in California, you probably don't need it as much. The anti-gel additive is good for low temps (self explanatory) and the biocide keeps algae under control for existing fuel but algae won't grow in cold climates. The Best Diesel Additives (Review & Buying Guide) in 2019 | Car Bibles (https://www.carbibles.com/best-diesel-additives/)
Pierce
This is what I use, Opti-lube XPD. So far no problems with starting or running.
Opti-Lube XPD Best Diesel Fuel Additive | #1 Rated and Reviewed Additives (https://opti-lube.com/diesel-fuel-improver/xpd-diesel-fuel-additives.html)
Keith
Truckers in years gone by used a quart of automatic transmission fluid per tank. They swore by it... In Canada we use winter diesel , way thinner, less power, but does not freeze up.
I dont ever recall algae in the tanks... I guess there is a lot different challenges depending what part of the country you live. A lot of people worry about the new fuel being dry, less lubrication, so an additive may be worth the money..
Safe Travels,
Dave
Probably what is known as #1 diesel early Detroits required it.
Lots of miracle treatments in a bottle.. Kind of like pricey vitamins that only produce pricey urine.. I buy a few things and most of them I deem useless.. Hard to make trash fuel good. Look in my shop and ask me which one is good and I will say I don't know.
I do recommend methanol for water. As far as the fuel lube business I haven't a clue and will admit it.
We use Howels. Truckers recommend it. Only in the winter, small shot in the summer. But we also get winter fuel in Idaho/Washington.
Was told it helps keep the moister out of the fuel (condensation)
https://www.amazon.com/Howes-103060-Diesel-Conditioner-Anti-Gel/dp/B001JT3I0U
Most places that sell diesel, Flying J, Loves, Maverik sell it cheap.
I always buy diesel at high-volume truck stops (typically Love's) and have never had any fuel issues. In the warmer months I add Biobor JF https://www.biobor.com/Biobor-Resources/spec-sheets/SPEC-BioborJF-NEW.pdf unless I will be using the fuel within a few days. I have never seen a documented need to add anything else.
In my years of OTR truck driving, I have used nothing but Howe's as fuel treatment. Added a little more than recommended in winter and less in summer. It worked fine in smaller engines of reefer also. I guess I swear by it since I've never been on the side of the road with a fuel problem. Fuel filter changes about every 15,000 miles. WAY back, when it was available in the States, we ran 50% No. 1 diesel and 50% No.2. Number 1 was basically Kerosene. This was in northern tier of US.
Kerosene is a lighter diesel oil than #2, hence why it is designated as #1 diesel. ... Kerosene doesn't contain very high levels of aromatic compounds; they typically get concentrated in the #2 and heavier diesel fuel oils. This is part of the reason kerosene burns drier, with less lubricity, than #2 diesel.
jk - a Howe's guy.
I fuel at Loves but did verse off and bought 70 gallons just west of Jacksonville Fl and took on some black slime.. Just about to get that broke down with KILLEM algae "killer". Don't recall the truck stop but in the 70's it was a Union 76. First truck stop west of Jacksonville on I 10.
In super cold winter months I used to put up to 20% kerosene in my tank, stopped the diesel freezing and gelling in the lines, upped the flash point, made starting much easier.
Have never used it in a Cummins engine, don't see why it would be different.
Up to 20% gasoline was also used in the older, indirect injection diesel engines like the Mercedes 300SD or our Powertech generators. But now, the common rail injection systems don't recommend using #1 diesel/kerosene and especially gasoline as the injection pump may be damaged by lack of lubrication. Winter diesel has anti-gel additives added. It does not keep the diesel from producing wax but prevents it from forming globs that clog filters. That is why some engines have fuel heaters.
Pierce
After having to rebuild our engine,as sensitive as these motors, injector pump & injectors are, I wouldn't be dumping anything in the fuel, except recommended additives. And even with that, I would be conservative.
"They" may have done this stuff in the "olden days" but the motors were a little more antiquated back then.
Just my 2 cents
Chris
My antiquated MBZ 4 cycle OM617 engine is going on 500K without even a water pump. I've sold a lot of the cars without any failures. Our antiquated 6V-92TA is still being produced by MBZ for use around the world including our military. Any dropped valves here on the forum (or anywhere else)?
I've run out of diesel and mixed motor oil with gasoline to make it to a service station, added gasoline (per MBZ recommendation) to our diesel in subfreezing temps and used ether to start the diesels. Our old Greyhound bus even had a spring loaded cap to spray ether in cold weather.
After reading a lot of posts, sounds like antiquated might be the way to go. ;D ;D ;D
Pierce
The ISM in my '99 has an ether start button that goes to a canister mounted in the right rear corner of the engine compartment. It is wired through a temperature sender on the engine that only allows it to be used when temps are cold enough that it might be necessary. I thought it was broken because the button never released any ether. Had to call FT and find out about the safety feature.
Can't help but wonder what the "use by" date would be on those ether canisters? It' pretty volatile stuff.
I bought a new one thinking 20 year old can wouldn't have pressure. Wrong, I now have a spare new one in the shop. I weighed them both hardly any difference. I unhooked the 1/8" plastic line and hot wired the solenoid on the old one and starting fluid was still there. The canisters are heavier than a can of starting fluid that you purchase.
PO told me he never used the starting fluid, I tried once when we first bought coach. It was below freezing and I wasn't familiar with coach starting procedure plus batteries were old and low, needless to say when I hit starting fluid as I would on a tractor engine turned over 2 times then stopped. Now I know to turn on block heater and Aqua hot engine heat-- starts easy-- no need to use starting fluid
Chris