The other day when we put the coach in our rented garage Pat said she heard an air leak when she shut down the engine. I didn't hear it (my hearing is less than ideal) and said "I can't hear anything, don't worry about it." She responded, "Listen to me! I hear an air leak and it's coming from the rear of the coach." I went back and sure enough, something was leaking. Another lesson on why I should listen to her!
The leak turned out to be in the bleed valve for the wet tank located just in front of the driver's side rear wheels. See attached. I tried adjusting it a bit which slowed the leak, but it seems to have a small leak no matter how the valve is oriented. I'd like to replace this valve but can't get it off. Spraying it with penetrating oil does not seem to help. I don't want to break it. Suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
George
Get something non flammable to put between the threads of the fitting and the coach. Heat the threads not the valve with a small propane torch. Then try to unscrew the valve. If that doesn't work reheat the threads again and put an ice cube on the valve and try again. Looks like 1/4 pipe threads which are tapered.
That's exactly what I had to do..! To all 3 drain valves.
Even if it gets broken it's just a matter of replacing the ell with quick-connect as well as the valve
Thanks for the suggestions. I heated it with a propane torch... IR thermometer read about 170 degrees. That did it! Now, where do I get a replacement? And do I need to seal it with tape or teflon paste? It certainly looks like a tapered thread.
Use liquid Teflon or other sealer.
Kingston KMBVM Series Brass Mini Ball Valve, Lever, 1/4" NPT Male x NPT... (https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-KMBVM-Brass-Valve-Female/dp/B006U4E9F2/ref=sr_1_2?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIso7s-b-p5gIVUfDACh0QGgQTEAAYAiAAEgJWg_D_BwE&hvadid=174249024238&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9031159&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=b&hvrand=6334387416894913926&hvtargid=kwd-56101892465&hydadcr=24658_9648989&keywords=1%2F4+shutoff+valve&qid=1575926578&sr=8-2)
George, tapered pipe threads are intended to be used for positioning and not sealing. That spiral gap that exists between the peak of the hill and the bottom of the valley is a feature of all but the dryseal threadform. Teflon tape, or pipe "dope" are your options.
Mine are leaking also.. or atleast 1 is.. looking at McFadden Dale tomorrow
Update... After I got the valve off I cleaned it up inside and out with WD-40 and Silicon lubricant. It seems to work more smoothly and when I put it back on... it no longer leaks.
George
I bought a drain valve at FOT last week. $13.39 with tax and 10% Motorcade discount. I was at FOT so no shipping. I did use Teflon tape. The old one was hard to get out, Teflon tape will make it easier if it needs to come out in the future.