IMG]https://i.imgur.com/DKJRwD2l.jpg[/IMG] I hope this picture attached correctly?
I have a frustrating leak that continues to nag me on the feed line to my toilet. It appears a pressure regulator has been inserted into the line just before the flapper assembly. I feel this regulator is unnecessary as I already attach an external water pressure regulator from the city feed line to my coach. I would like to remove this multiple connection device and just use pex tube with appropriate fittings to cut down on the line weight and added connections. Do any of you know if this regulator is factory installed between water pump and toliet or can I eliminate it? Would the water pump actually increase the PSI to the toilet were this device would be needed? I would not think so but I am not sure of the answer.????
Chuck, I have this on our coach and have seen it on another coach. I don't disagree with your thought process but have observed that water flowing into commode is very low pressure. I took the regulator off the commode and installed it at the manifold on the fitting that supplies the commode. I have had a valve leak problem in commode so was reluctant to increase the pressure
Chris
Good point...so it is apparently there for a reason. I certainly would not want any increase in pressure either. I like the idea of moving it where it will be less of a problem. I am going to do that. Thank you.
Like Chris, every Microphor commode I have worked on or looked inside the tank assembly, had that regulator. I am assuming it was there if you neglected to install in inline regulator up stream! That area has been a real problem on these systems and the reason why I removed my Microphor and installed a Dometic ADA porcelain commode! Best decision ever!
I don't see why moving it would hurt like Chris did with his!
Joe, when you decided to upgrade the commode how much of an issue was it? My first thought is it should be pretty straight forward aside from the current four mounting bolts and newer thrones have two. We're there any other mounting or function issues? I may also be interested in that route...? Is the Dometic upgrade an electronic flush also or a pedal push type?
By what I understand it was put there to keep from breaking/blowing up the fill valve body if the water pump cut off pressure switch fails.
Mike
Chuck, Joe and I both put in the Dometic ADA porcelain commode, it is a foot valve. Ours developed a leak in the valve while we were gone --A drip leak when flushing-- I called domestic customer service and the lady I talked to said they had gotten several
bad valves and sent me a new one.
Chris
Ok,thank you all for your help. Greatly appreciated.
Chuck, for the rest of your question-- when you remove the microphor --on mine and Joe's there was a large area where they (Foretravel) did not tile so this will have to be filled in because the Dometic will not cover the no tile area. In our case I removed the tile in the potty room and replaced all of it. I pulled flange replaces floor then replaced flange. The flange was not glued in, it was stiff to pull out but I got it out without breaking it and actually replaced it with a stainless steel covered flange from Lowes that pushed down into the pipe just fine--I did lube with silicone grease before pushing it in
Chris
Some of your questions have already been covered by Chris! Yes, it is a pedal valve and I have had no issues with it as of yet. lol
Once I removed the Microphor, one thing I did do is install a metal adapter ring that fits over the plastic floor flange where the mounting screws are. I lined it up to correspond with the bolt pattern on new commode base and then screwed it down. You can find these at HD or Lowes in the plumbing section. I did not remove the tile as Chris did, but at some point in time, will address that fix later. I also installed a 1/4 turn ball cock valve on the pex line coming out of the cabinet to supply the water for the commode and also a SS flex supply line to finish it off. I have never had one of these rupture. In fact, I replaced all the flexible rubber lines with SS flex lines in kitchen, bath and shower. Hope this helps. I got a deal on the Dometic, as it was on sale online and Camping World not only honored that price, but gave me 10% off as well for being a veteran. Hey, it never hurts to ask!
Thanks Joe & Chris,
I also just installed an additional ball cock shut off valve at the base of cabinet on feed line just in case. I guess I am lucky I have removed the Microphor and my floor is completely tiled all the way across. I am now learning toward updating to a porcelain or ceramic Dometic as you have done.
Installed this Dometic 320 Elongated, Beige, Porcelain, Wood Seat Toilet one year ago, has been great.
Dometic 320 Series Standard Height Toilet w/Hand Spray, Bone Amazon.com: Dometic 320 Series Standard Height Toilet w/Hand Spray, Bone:... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQERJRU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_45K-Db4MENX8J)
and used this adapter plate, comes with instructions, made upgrade easy and stable. I would only upgrade with this adapter.
Dometic SE311720 385311720 Mounting Kit for 310 Toilet, 4 to 2 Adapter-Bone Amazon.com: Dometic SE311720 385311720 Mounting Kit for 310 Toilet, 4 to 2... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050EIREW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Y8K-DbJRQ6XQK)
Thank you Jack great information.
I installed a Dometic 320 in my coach also and never looked back. The PO had installed a composting toilet in mine so I made a big change.
Ok, sorry but I am a bit confused with the old Microphor base flange... I have removed my old Microphor toilet and purchased the Dometic 320 with the additional minuting base hardware as recommended. No worries with the purchase but when I go to remove the old black plastic base flange Frome the floor as to replace with the recommended new flange kit I cannot separate the black flange from the PVC black tank neck. It appears the whole neck moves up and down when I try to separate the two. I fear putting to much pressure on it because I do not want to break anything.
Does anyone know if the flange is actually part of the neck or potentially cemented together?
Pictures
Upgrade kit
Chuck, when I took mine out the flange pushed down into the neck on the tank. They should not be cemented because you would not be able to remove tank without cutting the connecting. It was hard to get out but it did come out.
Chris
Ok, Chris I will go at it a bit more aggressively. Just wasn't sure if they separated. Thank u
Wow, I did not expect the neck to be glued to the top one piece flange...now that I know this upper neck can turn inside top of tank maybe I should clean it up and reuse it by aligning the toilet mount bolts with the slots. Otherwise not sure???
Bottom of new toilet
Chuck they make a stainless flange that will go over your flange and once screwed down it doesn't flex like the PVC Item # 253206 Model # 427771
Oatey Stainless Steel Flange
I think this is the right one Lowes and HD carry them
Some people swear by the new foam rubber ring and I'm sure they are good but I have always had good luck with the ring
Just me. DWMYH
Chris
Why you need the adapter kit, did yours not come with instructions? As I said, I would not do the install without this kit. The following is from the reviews on Amazon. I remember easily putting the new kit over the old plastic flange, drilling the mounting holes, and it made the new install easy, stable, and precise.
1) Q: why do I need this and what are we adp.ing
A: Some older RV toilet flanges don't have a 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock bolt arrangement that you need for the new Dometic toilets. On RVs where you can remove the old flange it's no big deal. On mine, however, the flange was cemented to the holding tank. This kit allowed me to adapt the old-style flange to the newer style required for the installation of a new toilet. The kit consists of a flange that goes atop the old flange, thus requiring the 1/4" tall riser/base you see in the picture. If not for the riser/base, the toilet would not sit on the floor - it would rest on the flange possibly causing damage to the old flange or holding tank. I found this kit to be perfect for my needs. see less
J. Stoltz ยท 5 years ago
2) Perfect for adapting the new toilet to my old (1984) ...
Perfect for adapting the new toilet to my old (1984) mount. The baseplate provides the right amount of rise to prevent the toilet from sitting on your black water tank flange rather than the floor like it should.
For mounting a different toilet to a toilet seat that is smaller... I took some some 14g or so metal and curved it to follow the old mounting holes and where I needed the new holes I added a longer flange and made a bolt on that end that when the toilet is mounted it bolts to the new flanges I made.. been working great for a few years
I will look for some pics... They are "crappy".. (if I can find them).be back if I can find them..
Found it.. here you go..be sure to use a strong enough material that the toilet doesnt flex
Thank you ALL, Merry Christmas!