Just finished installing a new 3000 watt pure sine wave inverter that came with the coach when I bought it. Also came with 4 solar
panels and all the gear to hook them up but that will have to wait for spring.
What did you replace it with?
John M
A Magnum MS 2812
I'm looking to install the Magnum MSH3012m 3000 watt pure sine hybrid inverter charger with the ME-RC50 remote control panel. Are you still using the second transfer switch or are you using the inverter transfer built in switch?
John M
John,
I'm not oldguy (although I am a Old Guy).
We were able to eliminate the second (inverter) transfer switch when we had our MS2812 installed. The Magnum internal transfer switch works flawlessly. It provides near instantaneous switching between inverter and pass-through (battery charger) modes. Even the "sensitive" electronic devices in our coach cannot detect the change in AC power sources because it happens so fast.
John,get the battery monitor device and the arc-15 better controller, will call you about it.
Look to see how your inverter 120v source is powered. Likely a 20 amp circuit from the main panel. If you eliminate the coaches transfer switch and supply power to the secondary panel through the inverter and its transfer switch you will only have 20 amps available at the secondary panel. The coach's transfer switch puts 50 amps to the secondary panel from the main panel (land line or generator supplied), much more that the OEM wiring to the inverter and back will allow.
You can rewire (bigger wire) and change circuit breaker (bigger) to the new inverter to supply 40 or 50 amps to it. And rewire (bigger wire) from the inverter back to the secondary panel bypassing the OEM second ATS then you can pass as much back as the incoming power and inverter transfer switch will allow.
If you have a Magnum hybrid model or any Victron Multiplus see how much added current can come from the inverter in addition to the pass through. The Victron can add another 14 amps. If you have 50 amps coming in then output side wiring and circuit breakers need to be sized for at least 65 amps. Prudence (and perhaps code) would suggest a circuit breaker at the source (next to the inverter) to protect the 65 amp wiring to the secondary panel.
If you are not sure how to do this check with an electrician. It is not hard to do (other than pulling the old wires out and getting much bigger wires back in) but it is just as easy to do it wrong and create a hazardous situation.
I left the second inverter in. When reading the manual I though that it would run on 110/220 volts, as it won't I left the wiring the
way it is. It would been nice to put in a 220 volt induction cook top when I get to it.
They make the cook tops in 120 v. Here is one at Lowes. You can find them online also. I carry 2 of the portable burners with me. I can use them inside or outside and still have the gas stove top. When my fridge goes out I will replace it with a residential, replace the stove top and remove the tank.
John M.
I am putting a residential fridge in this spring which I already bought and then I will be putting in 120 V induction cook top. I just
prefer 240 volts as it is more efficient but you can't have everything.
Magnum ms 2812 has 30 AAC transfer on each of its dual input legs if the breakers in each line and the wiring is sized for it as was posted
240v X. 10a. = 2400 watts
120v. X. 20a. = 2400 watts
Just saying
Chris
not sure what you mean by that......... unless wire size, distance and voltage drop are a concern.
My coach is all electric. While 220V is more efficient, IMO, not needed on these guys. 24V is more efficient as well, but we don't need to change that system out either. But new coaches go that route.
Propane IMO is a bomb next to 1400 lbs of accelerant that if went off, disaster. A PO took out the propane system in my coach, but if they hadn't, I would have. I use induction. Currently have 1 unit built in, 1 in drawer. More than sufficient, and we like to cook.
I have what 2 PO put in, which is a Marine Fridge/Freezer with a remote danforth compressor that runs on both 120/12v. Its very efficient. While I like it, it can get a lot of condensation inside in the south Texas heat. Think the door seal might need replacing.
Bob,
Do the "dollar bill test" on the refrigerator and freezer gaskets.
And, as with a boat refrigerator, these are not frost-free. In humid weather they sometimes have to be defrosted weekly. Depends also on how many times a day they are opened.
And with any absorption refrigerator, make sure the condensate drain (outside access door) has a restrictor in the end or it will be a constant source of hot, humid air entering the refrigerator.
Brett did the test and adjusted the door a bit a few months ago. The condensate drains inside to a bottle, holds about a quart maybe. Very humid here as you know.... I think I just didn't keep up with it. Once full time, should be less of a issue. But still might get a new gasket from the manufacturer to keep on hand.