What should I be thinking of to be prepared for a breakdown that needs a wrecker tow?
Have read that a lowboy is the way to go, but that may not be possible in rural America.
Is disconnecting the drive shaft enough, or is it that some tow truck drivers don't want to disconnect the drive shaft?
Is disconnecting the drive shaft better than pulling the axel half shafts?
Have seen the posts from six years ago about a set of axel caps, they mention that they have an oil hole, should I have axel oil?
Then the air brakes, I assume they can they be back fed from the air hook up beside my propane tank?
Mud flap would need to be bent up and supported.
Anything else about towing.
Will the HWH leveling work using air from the wrecker to raid the coach more if they have an issue getting the lift under the body work?
I like to be prepared and be able to control the situation when a tow truck driver arrives, suggestions appreciated.
David
Mite check this other thread; Tow truck vs. Coach (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=38707.0) Most all videos I've seen, they pull the driveshaft rather than remove the axles, but they still make the seals for the axle oil blockage if needed. Important to do some checking WHERE a tow guy can hook into the air and have the proper fittings on board to take the tow air. We've talked about a one-way valve on the air hose connection, but I have not checked mine to see if I can air the system through that; maybe someone knows?
https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=463
Towing a Foretravel (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/towing_a_foretravel.html)
General Preparations for Towing (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/general_preparations_for_towing.html)
One thing you can do is pick up a set of axle covers and flat washers which are used when the wrecker has to pull the axles for the tow.
jor
Here's some info: Price List (https://www.axlecap.net/price-list.html)
Easy to check and find out for sure. Make up a double male air hose connector. Hook up a air compressor to your tire filler hose, turn it on, and see what happens. If your dash air pressure gauges show a increase in pressure, then you're golden.
If the OEM tire filler hose doesn't work (flowing backwards) to fill your main air tanks, simple to add a dedicated fill point somewhere else.
Preventive maintenance, frequent inspections and common sense can help avoid the dreaded tow. It wasn't long ago when a member posted about leaving NM headed for Phoenix when he ignored a major problem and kept going. He broke down and ended up needing much more than a tow.
So just disconnect the drive shaft?
Or drive shaft and axel half shafts?
It depends on what caused the coach to 'limp to the side of the road' in the first place. I've learned from the pros that the coach can be towed a short distance (couple of miles) without doing anything except providing air.
I believe it is better to just pull theaxles. My knowledge on this is academic as I haven't had to be towed but that seems to be the consensus here on the forum. Probably best to just read through the posts by those of us that have suffered a tow.
jor
Removing the axles would be the best option in my opinion. Both removing the driveshaft and removing the axles eliminate hurting the transmission. Removing the driveshaft would allow possible contamination of the trans fluid. Removing the axles and putting caps on would be the quickest and the safest.
Been towed twice by Coach Net contracted tow trucks. Once in a Newell and once in a Foretravel. Both drivers told me they don't usually pull the driveshafts on motorhomes because they are so short and because of the lack of room under the coach. They pulled both half shafts, and both had axle covers.
Nerf football cut in half can be a substitute for the tow truck driver not having axle covers. I carry one.
Aside from lack of room under the coach, trusting the typical tow truck driver to mark the driveshafts, save all the fasteners and then have a shop properly re-install it is asking for major trouble. The kind of trouble that normally won't show up right away but well down the road where the owner has zero recourse against the tow company or shop.
How much trouble is it to take the chrome covers off, remove BOTH axles and put the covers on the hub? It's fast and the covers cost less than $40. If the coach is at a bit of an angle, the most that can happen is that a little oil is lost. Not really any seal to be damaged, etc. For those not acquainted with the process, the wheels/tires DO NOT have to be removed.
http://www.axlecap.net/index.html
Pierce
Thanks Pierce, think you answered my "shaft" question
Thanks
David
They guy pulling the driveline will not be reinstalling. He doesn't give a hoot about parts, indexing, or your costs or future inconvenience he incurs for you. I would always prefer to remove axles and the idea of a Nerf football is brilliant. Downside is greasy oily axles loose some were. Having caps and reinstalling hardware is a no brainer. Having latex gloves and some very heavy plastic bags would help to resolve oil related problems. Sure you might want to double check the oil service before returning the coach back to service but you'll be fine with any oil loss from removing the axles for the tow. Yes having a way to charge the air system, and know what is needed for the tow driver would certainly be beneficial. Knowing were the tow lug attach points are on your coach could save you from having that same carefree tow provider from doing more damage to your coach that ultimately YOU will end up paying for either out of pocket or thru a insurance claim. That being said at some point you don't need everything, and there is always a different way to do everything. I'm frugal and am always looking at function over form.
Scott
My thought has always been " you better get a really skinny toe truck driver if he is going under the coach "
I personally will pull the axles like crane man
Chris
Definitely better to pull the axles. We carry the covers for the open hubs--just in case!
Been working on this problem for a while, my conclusions;
Remove the 1 gallon hub covers held on by 4 lug nuts, and replace with a "baby moon" type cap that fits over the hub.
With that done pulling the axles should be quick and easy.
If you're going for baby moons, why not paint the wheels black and pretend your an ex police car?
We have two insurance policies that cover towing. Axle covers have been added to the list of things to purchase. Between the front wet wheel bearings, the remote possibility of having to remove the axles I don't have the decorative hub covers installed.
Just reread this thread. I think I got it off track when I typed "drive shafts" instead of axles. I meant pull the axles and cap the hubs. I corrected my post. Sorry about that!
jor
This one for us Pierce?
MR8D-1
8 bolt Meritor hub common on later model motorcoaches (5/8" stud). HINO 268/333/338.
Sold as a pair.
Some thing to consider: I removed the drive line and replaced the U joints during assembly. I didn't want to be concerned about the care of the existing U joints during removal. Have a great day ---- Fritz
That is one one if I remember correctly. I will take a look in the morning and post if something different.
P
Why not make your own covers from 2 cutting boards that may cost $5. That is what I did and it took maybe 2 hours of my time to use a jigsaw and drill after marking out the hole spacing using calipers. Buy the washers and nuts and out it all in a Ziploc bag I. The drAwer for that day when it happens.
This is one of the many non brainers we will have while on the road.
Do it now.
JohnH
John, ^.^d ^.^d ^.^d ^.^d
P
Thanks as always, Pierce.
One last thing, do ANYTHING to keep from being towed.
Some get towed, have damage and the tow was not necessary.
Fix it, explore options, find bypass, limp along
Don't be too quick to give up finding solutions.
Coffee helps, I mean, you're home so why not make a pot and relax for one half hour? Without thinking about your "problem."
A couple of weeks ago my bike stopped running on the way to the cardiologist for a run on the treadmill. I rolled into the NAPA store parking lot, across the street from the Marathon gas station and tried to call for a ride.
45 Minutes later after I had given up on making my appointment, I realized "I'm parked in front of a NAPA store." So I purchased a spool of wire and a wire stripping tool. Now in my defense the trip meter showed 79 miles and I normally refill the tank at 100 miles, 130 miles being the coast to the side of the road range.
I wired the fuel pump directly to the battery and it rattled merrily away.
I pushed the bike across the street and filled the tank, the bubbles of air giving evidence that the day tank below the main tank was empty.
I started the bike and made the last run of the day. I removed the jumper wires and rode home.