I pulled out the old ballast and fluorescent bulbs and installed new LED strips. The whole project was really easy and took about 30 minutes. Like all wiring jobs I soldered and heat shrunk the connections.
The new lights are very bright. In fact I am contemplating changing out the strips to a 4000K or 5000K color. I only wired the front most fixture as I wanted the weekend to think it over at the campsite.
If I don't use these in the main light fixtures I will use them in the storage bays so nothing really gets wasted. There are so many LED fixtures to choose from. These come with an aluminum backer and double sided tape already installed. You simply cut them to length, press, and plug in. One unexpected bonus is that the strips are wired at both ends for series connecting so when you cut one shorter you actually still have a whole other light you can wire somewhere else!
Can't beat $24 for 5 fixtures plus another 10 accent or small area light strips!
ICIH (Pack-10) Aluminum DC12V 9W... ICIH (Pack-10) Aluminum DC12V 9W SMD5630 Double Row 84LED 0.5M/20" Rigid... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QWJLZGY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
And if the strips come loose in the southern heat, put a dob of "Shoe Goo" on the backs.
Nice clean looking job. Curious to hear if you decide these are too bright.
I want to install them in my existing porch light. Do you think they will work there.?
Did that and it works fine.
Think I will give those a try. Thanks for the link.
Eric, Looks really nice and clean. I made new LED lights for mine last year. Really brightened up the coach, but maybe too much for the DW. I used 5 strips per fixture, I'm thinking of going back to redo with only 3 strips per fixture.
Larry
I also did two strips per fixture, brighter than original, seems just right. Both wife and I happy with increased light.
Good Job! They keep coming out with interesting lighting products incorporating LEDs. Fun to wonder what will pop up next.
We rebuilt all the lights on our coach (interior and exterior) with LEDs. I used long rolls of LED strips and cut them to fit. I tried 6000K (daylight) and 3000K (warm white) strips. We preferred the warm white inside the coach, and I used the daylight strips in the storage bays.
You can get dimmers for LED light fixtures, in case they turn out too bright. I bought one but ended up never using it. Turned out our lights were "just right" for us. The older you get, the more you appreciate "adequate" levels of illumination. Of, course, everbody is different.
Another (Interior) LED Project (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=29593)
Bay lights (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=36065.msg340769#msg340769)
I tried both warm white (lower Kelvin temps) and daylight white (higher Kelvin temps). Like Chuck and many we prefer the watm whit inside. All daylight strips are in the bays. And dimmers on most inside. I used several strips in the fluorescent rebuilds and added a switch to have only one strip or all on. Keep experimenting.
If you are running multiple strips in one fixture, wire them in parallel to reduce voltage loss.
In the long run soldered connections will be more durable and reliable. It is not hard to do but some practice helps. Soldering LED Light Strips (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=35512.msg332476#msg332476)
I have added lighting in almost every interior cabinet as well.proximity switches on the doors turn on the lights when you open them.
Eric
I used about the same LED lights. I only used one row in the smaller fixtures (front, bath, bedroom) in my coach and two strips in the larger fixtures. Yes it is bright but the older I get the worse my eyesight, so I like the bright lights, but only use them when I have projects or cooking. I use the under cabinet puck lights most of the time.
Just my two cents
I done all mine in 5000 except the front one which was done before I bought the coach and some time I will redo that one. I have
put led throughout the coach and except the porch light which I just need to buy a bulb, the passenger map light and the door
handle.
These particular lights I bought are not waterproof and I would be leery using them on any of my external fixtures. It would probably be okay since most of those fixtures are sealed but they are also old and prone to leaks.
Great clean install Roger. That panel looks like it will put out a lot of might. The density of LEDs on the strips also has a big play on brightness.
I was also considering using the under cabinet lighting in a warm white as accent lighting and ambience and use the main "bright lighting" for tasking. Since the LEDs are so cheap these days there really isn't much risk in trying multiple setups.
Eric,
When I changed over to LEDs, I tried warm white and cool white. The cool white were just too bright, and changed all the fixtures to warm white. I used the remaining roll of cool white in the basement lighting. I also used the 3m double-sided tape because I found the tape on the LED rolls was just not effective, and started coming down on it's own.
Eric, thanks for the tip. Replaced every fluorescent light in the coach with the same strips you used (all Warm White), and we love them. The only difference is I actually gutted the entire inside of the fixtures. Removed tubes, sockets, and ballasts, and direct wired the strips parallel as Roger suggested. Next, all the storage bays in Day Light White.
I finally received them. I went with the daylight rather than the warm white. I removed the existing fixtures, covered the space with aluminum foil tape. I am using 2 per fixture now but might add a third. I want bright task lighting. When not needing that amount of light will just use the warm white pucks. The tape is not 3m and I am not sure if it will hold well over time. Easy to cut and solder the wires back on. Price is good. First order got lost. I reordered and both showed up.
Most LED strip lighting come with a double stick tape on the back and most of it is labeled 3M. Most of it is not actually a 3M product but a fake knock off and in my experience most of it will not last long.
Get a roll of 3/8" glazier's tape. Amazon.com: JVCC DC-WGT-01 Double Coated Window Glazing Tape: 1/16 in. thick... (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SZ3RES/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&tag=foreforums-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957)
It works very well. One roll is 50 ft.
You people are a bad influence on me. I ordered one set of ten in 6000K. I've replaced 3 ballasts so far and the bulbs don't seem to last the way they should, maybe because of the lower mercury level. I give up. I throw in the towel. I surrender. Maybe the LEDs will last.
Dimmer and 3500k
Scott
Question, if you order the 20" long ones can you snip off 2" if you only need 18"?
Yes. There are clearly identified lines where you are supposed to make the cut. I used metal shears since it is printed on an aluminum board. It cut right through no problem. You can save the pierce you cut off and wore up another spot with it.
One is LED and the other is original florescent bulbs. I can't remember which. I did these a year and a half ago. 2 rows of single natural white LED self stick strips...el cheepos off Amazon. Gutted the Thin Lite ballasts, etc. So far the chinee self stick fake 3M adhesive has worked okay. I did every florescent fixture in the coach with the same natural whites and all the halogens with warm white. JWID. Woody.
We installed the warm white in the bedroom and put 3 strips in each fixture. The brightness is not overwhelming. If we need more light we can turn on the side puck lights. We used the same warm white behind all of the valances on all of the windows. We will install the daylight strips everywhere else.
John M.
We installed the LED light strips inside the cabinets and I love them. Stuck the LED light strip to the cleat above the cabinet doors and tied into the 12 volt light switch for the lighting under the cabinets. They look great and I can find my stuff!
Received our order of:
ICIH (Pack-10) Aluminum DC12V 9W SMD5630 Double Row 84LED 0.5M/20" Rigid...
this afternoon after placing the order on Sunday. I didn't feel like jousting with the DMV late in the afternoon on a Monday so I gutted the ThinLite over the dinette and installed the 6,000K LEDs. I like the color.
Tomorrow may turn into a rain day, so I'll do the same thing with the two 20" bulbs in the bedroom Thinlite.
The fluorescent tubes just don't last as long as the old ones.
Eric,
Perhaps it is too soon to tell, but does the double stick on the the strips you bought seem to be holding up well? I bought a couple of ten packs of the same in warm white (thanks for the heads up on the product! ^.^d ) My thought is the aluminum backing of these strips will likely make the adhesive used less likely to let go. I did buy the window glazing tape that Roger posted (not 3m by the way, but I am confident that if it passed Roger's litmus test it will do the job), but I don't want to possibly waste one of the strips trying to get the original double stick off (which by the way looks almost identical to the stuff the LED strips come with, only thicker). At this point, I think I will do the entry fixture with the OEM double stick and revisit the issue should it prove inadequate for the task.
Don
Great question. My strips have held up over my last two trips and 800ish miles. We also went through hot and very cold temp swings. I agree with you that the aluminum backing should help provide stability. They make a slightly cheaper (-$5) without the aluminum.
Time will tell!
Don, when I changed all my overhead lights to LED I used the glazers tape in addition to the self stick on the back of the LED strips. I have had a couple of the strips come loose evidently from getting hot. I fabbed up some plexiglass plates which I put 5 strips each onto. Then double stick tape the plates to the Thin Lite frames after removing the bulbs, ballasts and aluminum bracket which separated the bulbs. The entire plate assembly wouldn't hold. They would fall if sitting too long, or if I hit a bump in the road. I added hot glue to the back of the plates to help hold. This helped a lot, but a couple would have tendency to fall while driving.
With 5 strips of warm white LED's each, the light is too bright for our liking, therefore I am reworking them now. I am eliminating the plates completely. I am reattaching the aluminum bracket which separated the bulbs and can fit 3 rows of lights on the top of this bracket. The bracket is held in place by the rivets factory mounted in the frame. I haven't decided whether to use glazer's tape and/or hot glue and/or shoe goo to hold them in place.
Any and all suggestions appreciated.
Larry
Shoe-Goo is the answer
Same as AM Solar uses ti hold down solar panels.
3M 4950/WI15 Scotch 4950 VHB Tape: 1" x 15 ft, White Amazon.com: 3M 4950/WI15 Scotch 4950 VHB Tape: 1" x 15 ft, White: Industrial... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CC14L96/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eOeuEbJEJQYQS)
I've used this on the my interior roof led lights.
3M 1/2-5-RP32 VHB Tape 0.5 in width x 5 yd length (1 Roll),Gray Amazon.com: 3M 1/2-5-RP32 VHB Tape 0.5 in width x 5 yd length (1 Roll),Gray:... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Y7E0CQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1ReuEb22FN2DS)
Larry
I added a second switch to the light fixture so that when the lights are on I can use one strip or all. Never need then all at night but during the day it is nice. I used a thin aluminum sheet that the strips are stuck to and then the sheet is stuck to the fixture. Tha lets me wire and test outside of the fixture. You can get a smaller piece of countertop laminate at the big box stores for about what the aluminum cost.
Waterproof LED strips get hotter than non-waterproof strips and don't stick well at all. Clean off the original stick on strips and use the glaziers tape. If it comes loose ot is the original tape on the strips that is failing. I usually put a little dap of silicone on either side of the steips where the wires are.
Wire the strips in parallel to minimize voltage variances.
Roger what do you use to cut the hole for the added switch?
Keith
I used four of the 3000K warm white strips with aluminum backing in the overhead entry light. Very pleased with the brightness, but I will likely add a switch to make so I can have all four on or the two outside ones. They are wired in parallel and connected to power via two position terminal strip for easy removal. I will likely use just two in each of the bedroom bath overhead lights. I like the quality of the light Put out by the LED's much better than the fluorescents they replaced.
Don
Drilling holes in fixtures : use a step down drill bit, they are fantastic, great to have in your tool box.
https://www.lowes.com/pl/Step-drill-bits-Drill-bits-Power-tool-accessories-Tools/4294607745
I used a Dremel tool to cut rectangular holes. Pretty quick. It is just plastic so you could drill most of out and use a file or utility knife to square it up.
If you need to cut a square or hex hole in metal, Watts Bros. in Wilmerding, PA has just what you need.
Of course, things are more complex than cutting plastic or wood but really neat how a three fluted "tool", a square hole template, a floating holder, a vise, and a drill press running at a slow speed can make a square hole.
Cutting tool companies do this all the time in order to make square drive holders for cutting tools like core drills.
I found led tubes that replace the florescent tubes in the hall and bath fixtures. I also found direct replacement bulbs for the lamps and basement fixtures. I searched LED replacement for the bulb part # I wanted to replace.
I'm getting ready to finish my install of the LED strip lights possibly tonight. previous owner had replaced all the bulbs with LEDs, but many of them were failing, and the color temperature just wasn't right in my opinion. I was going to go with a much more expensive option until it was posted about those inexpensive ones from China on Amazon. I bought two boxes of the daylight and I'm pretty much finished with the exception of the bathroom. any u320 there's two overhead fluorescent lights in the bathroom one controlled from the bath and the bedroom, called the hall light and one kind of over the toilet but in the middle. that one comes on with the under cabinet puck lights and I always thought that that was kind of dumb. I want the puck lights to come on separately. That way I can kind of use them just as a night light or if I just don't need much light, but have the other two come on when I want a lot of light. So I'm having to drill a channel between the two lights through the AC unit to connect the wires that way. So then when I flip the switch either the puck light comes on, flip another switch the other two come on.
For the fluorescent fixtures, I took out the bulbs cut the wires and just rewired it directly to the LED strips. I used two LED strips and they are quite bright which is exactly what I was looking for. In the kitchen I used three in each of the two overhead lights, and again they are nice and bright. If I'm cooking or soldering something whatever, I have plenty of bright light where I need it overhead. The fluorescent tubes that I'm replacing required a ballast and I just didn't think they were very bright.
Nice job. I hope to get the rest of my lights done over the next week or so. I also am looking forward to doing the storage bays.
Bob your bathroom lights must have been a newer model year upgrade. On my 96 the undercabinet puck lights are on one switch under the med cabinet and the overhead light is on a switch in the hallway by the bathroom door. I didn't find the puck light switch for nearly 6 months and then surprise
Larry
Larry a lot of strange things in my coach when it comes to lighting. For instance there are under cabinet floor lighting and the kitchen and the bathroom, but the switch for that is when you first walk in on the stairs no other switch that I know of. Seems kind of silly and then the before mentioned puck light overhead light thingy. Well that one's fixed I'm going to replace the old style strip lights under the cabinets with newer LEDs and have a switch where it makes sense to do so. Also since I'm rebuilding my countertops I'm really thinking about doing an epoxy pour in the middle that will be under lit by LEDs. it would be a night light type of light in the bathroom. If I can pull it off the way I think I can I think it would look really cool and be pretty practical as well. I'm all full of ideas when it comes to this stuff. However translating them into actual working models takes a little bit more work.
I did finish the bathroom lights last night. I drilled a hole between the AC and both lights and connect to them with 16 gauge wire. I put three strips in the main light and two strips in the hall light. It now looks really good. The light is more useful and I'm sure better energy efficiency than what was the original. I lined everything with aluminum tape that I got from harbor freight. it gives a nice surface for the tape to stick to and a nice reflection as well.
Bob sounds like a good plan of action. If the LED'S w/epoxy work out, be sure to post pictures. We all love pictures. I have low level lights in the hallway and salon also, just not LED. It got turned on accidentally during the day one time. When it got dark, I couldn't figure out how they turned off. Took me 3 days before I accidentally found the switch by the front door. Before, I thought the switch went to something that didn't work. After 5 years, still learning,
Larry
So I am slowly changing out every fixture in between my normal life. This fixture is the main center fixture in the three way switch. I went with four 3200K strips on the same aluminum backing. The light output is a little bit more intense but similar in coloring as the fluorescent bulbs.
The white balance in the pictures doesn't accurately show the color of the light. It is not near as yellow in real life as it is in the picture.
The wife much prefers the softer lighting. I would prefer to go with a 4200 bright white but cannot find the same design in that color. I can live with the color and the wife really likes it so they will stay.
Only seven more fixtures to go!
Did mine also this last week.. Color match is a problem so I mixed them to get the color needed
Took 3500k(or 3k cant remember) 3 strips mixed with 1 strip of 6k(white) to make the 4500k color (very close)
Bathroom is a little small so I did 2 of the lower colors and 1 of the bright and the same in the toilet... Bright and I can see now.. bought some extra lights to add but I am going to use the coach first like this and see if i want to add more lighting
Not sure why women like the lower yellowish color... I like it Hospital bright!!
I mounted these straight to the wood / fiberglass instead of the aluminum fixture like I did on the first fixture. I will let it sit and use it for a while before I mount the next ones. The smaller fixtures will all be mounted to the aluminum bases due to the smaller fixture size.
I was a little surprised to see the same small fixture under the much larger "lights".
I also just learned my first install was a double LED mount strip and this one was a single mount strip. I prefer the light output if the double strips!
I really like the bright lights. I put in the natural white light. Three per fixture with the big one in the kitchen having four. And the first one near the driver's seat I only used two, but I'm thinking about adding another one now. I use those lights for when I need to really brighten up the coach. When I'm working inside or cooking or anything like that. When I want the mood lighting then I go to the puck lights the wall sconces and the LED lights I put in the window valences.
I put them on foil tape. Hope it helps to disapate heat. Just wish Foretravel put the switches in a central location. Having them spread all over might have been a good idea in 1999, but in 2020
It's not.
Pretty even lighting
Another thing I have tried with these strips. A 9 volt battery, a small switch, and a little wire, and I have put them inside a few of my cabinets where some light was needed. They work great and provide plenty of light.
As a test, I hooked a full strip up to a 9 volt battery. I had it on for 48 hours and it was still going. They should last quite a while in a cabinet.
I've been doing a little light work myself and have some parts if anyone wants them before I trash them just pay postage
Chris
Installed the LED in the hall fixture between the bedroom and bathroom, two fixtures in the kitchen and the fixture in the front of the coach. They really light up the area. Put 3 strips in all of the fixtures except for the hall fixture it has 2. Since I had to cut the strips to fit the fixtures I was able to use the cut offs in the closet fixtures. I put 4 cut offs in each closet fixture. Works great! Need to order another box so I can use them in the basement.
John M
I was considering using the small end pieces in each cabinet. I think the spacing would work perfect.
So many useful and practical applications. I ended up with just about every color and wattage arrangement the company makes. I am using them for accent lighting, clearance lighting inside, cabinet lighting, general lighting, utility lighting, etc.
Finally bite the bullet and worked on a few of our overhead lights. The one over the kitchen table has not worked since we bought the coach and got it working today with LED's as well as the one in the front overhead just behind the passenger chair area. I knew that the ballasts were out on both and didn't want to invest the cost of going back to the florescent bulbs! Anyway, a huge shout out to all who went before us and were kind enough to post photos and write ups on their installs.
Well, the internet here is really slow, so guess I will have to wait to load photos! UGH!
I used the led light strips for my bay and coach fluorescent and it was a pretty easy job. Don't know a lot about electric but even I figured it out. I had to cut the strips to size for each of my fixtures and that left me with 15– 3" strips left over. I threw them in the drawer. I finally found the perfect use for them. I was pricing the marker lights on the front and back an thought $25 each * 10 lights was way too much so I converted the lights to use the 3" leftover strips. Had to trim the plastics cross bar on the lenses with a dremel to allow the led strip to fit.
Nice job Tommy!
John M.
Awesome use. Man it feels good to use every piece and not waste a thing! You save a butt load of money! !
What a great idea. I am sensing a new spirit of creativity arising within the forum! (More great ideas for me to knock off)
jor
They get pretty hot. I would want some metal behind them as a heat sink. Let them run a bit and check.
For those that are farther along renovating lights than me, what are your favorite butt end connectors for the small ga. wire other than solder?
jk
I like long neck crimp caps
Bad link before. This one is OK
Amazon.com: Install Bay CC2218 Crimp Cap Nylon Connector 22/18 Gauge... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HQ4T6I?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title)
Easy to use one handed. Strip length less critical. Single crimp.
Several sizes, buy bags of 100, sooner or later you will use them all up.
This has been a very useful crimper for these, nice full length crimp. Hold the cap while you stuff in wires.
Gardner Bender GS-388 Electrical Pliers, Crimper & Cutter, Comfort Grip,... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00079LN1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Roger, that link takes me to my orders.
Roger probably meant these.
100
Amazon.com: Install Bay CCL1614 Crimp Cap Nylon Connector 16/14 Gauge Long... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SBLM1C/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_9X5GEbMVREN3J)
1000
Amazon.com: Install Bay CCL1614-1 Crimp Cap Nylon Connector 16/14 Gauge Long... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N7PYU0/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_mZ5GEb3AK8APN)
Jack
Foretravel nick name...."Rocket Ships"
Here is another way to connect multiple wires especially in tight places. Interior use.
Lever-Nut Assortment Conductor Compact Wire Connectors pct-212 25pcs pct-213... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077CMXPKL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
You can get them in smaller quantities.
Jack, connect bigger wire to the smaller wire close to the lights. 16 ga is good or even 18 ga for short runs is OK too.
Thanks, Roger.
jk
Wow! Tommy, a great idea an fix for those left over short led's. Now, I have more to do on front and back overhead lights! Someone else questioned the heat these little lights give off and was wondering how they have done up there on the front cap? I know when I was installing in the bay a long strip, of course when I hooked the wires up the light came on and yes, it does get hot and quickly. Had to get the gloves out to handle, but boy, they sure do light up the bay area! lol
Haven't really been able to use them at night yet so I won't be able to tell until I do. Like most I try to avoid night driving and with the Coronavirus thing we haven't been out, much less at night. I will turn them on tonight and shoot them with infrared gauge tonight and report back.
Best $30.00 spent....Used old piece of diamond plate in large one's, with 2 strips each.
Gutted the rest of the lights, and put 1 strip each. Plenty of light.
Took a couple of 1" cut off's, and gutted the engine light, installed them there.
Put one, under the lip of belt trim when comp door is open, lights up BBQ.
Have 2 spares left over
Took maybe 45 min.-1 hour to do.
Chris
Chis, good call on the engine compartment for lights. Next job after the clearance lights! Yes, Tommy, we don't travel at night at all, just nice to see them lit up for easier saying thanks to the truckers who blink their light to let us know when to come back in. Always good to be nice to the truckers who are out there making a living while we enjoy the fruits of our labors from past jobs and travel the highways and byways of this great country!
Joe, shot the lights with infrared but couldn't get a good reading, think it was too far away. Running lights down low were around 50 degrees but when I tried to shoot the marker lights up high it was reading funky like 8 degrees. Like I say must be too far for my inexpensive brand.
Thanks for trying Tommy! I have about 6-7 small strips left and short wire connectors, so will be a good start on the back end anyway!
Found another use for these LED strips. Removed the three bulbs from the bathroom vanity lights and replaced with an LED strip. Light is great in the Warm White. Used the old bulb base by breaking out the glass, drilling through the bottom, and soldered the negative to the inside of the bulb base and pushed the positive through the bottom and soldered it. Then filled the bulb base with hot glue.
Works great, just twist it in light a regular bulb, hot glued the strip to the three bulb sockets, and back in business !
This is the second coach I have used the strip led light. The first coach I had in for 5 years and they were still working like the day I
put them in. I like the 5000 color and were I get my led lights they have different brightness in the different colors.
This is the second coach I have put the led strips in. The first coach were in for 5 years and when I sold the coach they were working
the same as the day I put them in. I like the 5000 color and when I went to by them for this coach the girl showed me that they
had different brightness in the different colors. I choose what I had before as I was happy with what I had.
Just ordered 3 sets of ten to do all my light fixtures inside and outside porch light and all the bays may even do the engine bay as well. Finished up the interior today. Beyond pleased with the outcome and brightness of the new lights, now to get the bays all converted as well.
Just a quick update. The strips are holding strong with only the original double sided tape. Many of mikes and temperature swings!